I purchased a JOYING stereo system to install in my car. So far, so good. I was able to install the stereo down where the original Alpine unit lived and had a piece 3D printed to install the screen where the triple gauge cluster was. Looking at the schematic for the entertainment system. I have the Premium system, with the AMP in the trunk. My problem is; How to connect the speaker wires from the new unit to the wires in the yellow connector to get it functioning properly. Anyone?

YELLOW CONNECTOR FOR SPEAKERS


SCREEN INSTALLED


STEREO INSTALLED WHERE OLD ALPINE UNIT LIVED

 

Hey buddy what year and model is your xk8, that’s the first step in finding the correct wiring diagram. And I see you mention the level of oem stereo system you had…another step forward towards proper information. I checked your profile but didn’t see an xk8 or xkr model listed, hence the question. I am completely unfamiliar with that brand of head unit here in the states but curious as to how it works out for you.
to be honest and just shooting from the hip here, but I think you will have to cut the plastic plug off the harness that went to the stock head unit and wire up each channel of speakers to your new head unit, if no “plug and play” adapters are available. Not to worry though, with the right information anything can be done. Generally speaking, there will be two wires per channel(speaker) that are usually somewhat color coded. Each channel will have a negative and a positive wire, usually the same color for both wires per channel, differentiated by a stripe in the negative channel (ie purple and purple with white stripe would mean one channel, solid being positive lead and stripped wire of same color being negative lead of that particular channel.) generally speaker wires are grey, brown, green and purple (again in sets of two, one being stripped but not always white stripped). You may also have six sets of speaker channels if you
had tweeters in the das or door. Year and model will help a lot to determine what you got

 

So the way I did this was... while I had the center console out, I also pulled the rear seat and just ran new interconnects to the rear area where i installed my amp, to avoid hacking up the original harness. threading the interconnects through the rear bulkhead wiring grommets on the convertible was the hardest part, i just ran wire and terminated it with connectors later.

I did look into how to connect into the stock harness to the amp, identifying wires and either tapping them, or cutting the connector and creating new interconnects that way, but in the end as I had the interior out already, it was just easier and cleaner to run new interconnects. This also made it easier to run the reversing camera video signal wire and power and the original harness is there in one piece in case ready to plug and play if anyone feels like putting the original back in later.

 

Great job man, I kinda did the same removing center console and rear seats to run my rca cables to my aftermarket amp to hide everything under the carpet and make it clean looking…it wasn’t in my mind at the time but looking back a rearview backup camera would be sooo nice!
anyway back to your original question, you’re going to need to have the new head unit wiring diagram, showing which wires are for what channel of speaker, as well as the cars original wiring diagram for your year/model/original stereo setup, and basically just go one at a time, as the colors may not match up.(I remember some of my speaker wiring was purple and purple w/ pink stripe, as pos and neg for one speaker and so forth, but the wires for that channel from the head unit were totally different. Proper information from both ends will be helpful for you

 

Sorry, 2001 XK8. it is not added to my profile as yet.
As stated in my previous post, what I need to know is how to get the radio signal to the AMP. I have the 1999 MY schematic and based on what I am seeing, what I need to do is to get the signal to the AMP. The schematic shows all the speaker wires are coming off the AMP. It also shows the following wiring from the original radio.
Orange, Black, Yellow, Green, Blue, and Red going to the AMP from the radio but it does not say which is left or right or which is + or -
I used the wires from the original white connector to power up the Joying stereo but I now need to get the signal to the AMP to get the speakers working.
I beleive I have to use the RCA outputs to send a low level signal to the AMP, since the signal from the speaker wires will be too high. I don't know if this makes any sense but I don't want to butcher the existing wiring nor do I want to rewire the whole system.
Throwback mentioned in his post that he looked into doing this Quote "I did look into how to connect into the stock harness to the amp, identifying wires and either tapping them, or cutting the connector and creating new interconnects that way. " Hopefully he will chime in on this issue.

 

It won't work, you can't use the original OEM amp, with a non OEM head unit. As previously mentioned, the easiest thing to do is run new wiring to the speakers.

Edited to add: once you have the new speaker cable at the OEM amp location in the boot, you could then connect the new wires to the existing speaker wires. I wouldn't try and use the existing wires from the head unit to the boot as speaker wires.

 

You also need to get the correct EG for your MY, as the sound system OEM changed from Harman Kardon to Alpine around MY2000. It's available for download on member Gus' site:
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk2001.pdf

 

@dibbit I guess that you are not understanding what I am trying to do.The yellow plug at the OEM radio location is not used to go directly to the speakers. It used to power up the AMP, antenna, steering wheel controls, SatNav etc . There are six wires: Orange, Black, Yellow, Green, Blue, and Red going to the AMP from the radio harness. So, I have to use the low frequency signal via the RCA ports to fire up the AMP.
What I need to know is which of the six wires are + and which are -
In this scenario you cannot use the speaker wires unless you rewire the car from dash to trunk and bypass the AMP.
I don't want to take the car apart to run new wires unless there is no other alternative.
Maybe, I don't know what the hell I am talking about.
@michaelh I was told that the '99 schematic was the same. I have the Premium Alpine system in the car.

 

Similar, but not the same - particularly if you also have the navigation system. The 99 EG covers the Harman Kardon ICE hardware.

 

As has been mentioned, the 1999 and 2001 premium systems are NOT the same. The electrical guide you require is readily available compliments of Gus at jagrepair.com

 

Not sure that l totally understand here, correct me if l misunderstand but... the yellow plug shown looks like ic20 (yellow 26 way) this has nothing to do with speakers. Speaker connections were through the white 12 way, ic19 in the standard system ( the one you used for power), premium system amp connections were through the alpine proprietary plugs.
The yellow connector for speaker connections you want is ic1 (20 way yellow) under the console cubby.

 

Here is what I found out.
The 12 pin INCarTec cable needed is from the UK. Because of the halt of the Minimus program in the US, no one is shipping anything until they know what the tarriffs will be on items costing less than $800. Previously items under $800 were exeppt of tarriffs or taxes, so InCarTec is a no go at this time.
However, since the amp was powered by the black AI-NET cable (round black connector about 1/2 in diameter) I have to find the interface for that cable.

I found the following from Discount Car Stereos in the US. I spoke to the rep and this is what they recommend for the 2001 XK8 with premium sound system

1. ARH-JAG2PInstall an aftermarket radio & amplifier of choice in select 2000-06 Jaguar premium audio system.
Many "car audio technology" advances have been made since these cars were introduced, and if you would like to be able to make/receive hands-free calls, satellite navigation, play music from a digital device, USB stick/memory card, iPod or Bluetooth from a single unit; you should consider replacing the OE radio. Unfortunately replacing Jaguar/Alpine premium radio and amplifier with aftermarket requires rewiring the entire system; however with the ARH-JAG2P harness, the process just got a lot easier. The ARH-JAG2P harness provides power, amp/antenna turn-on, illumination, steering wheel control signals and up to 8-speaker signal channels (front/rear door speakers, tweeters and subwoofers or any combination thereof) to replacement amplifier. This welcome addition does not require cutting or modifying vehicle's harness because the included 18, 12 and 26-pin connectors mate perfectly with factory radio plugs and does not compromise vehicles wiring integrity should it become necessary to re-install original radio/amplifier if and when vehicle is offered up for sale/trade. Exclusive to 2000-06 XK (X100) and 2000-03 XJ (X308) with Alpine premium audio system only. Not applicable to Harman Kardon amplified system.
» Exclusive to 2000-06 Jaguar Alpine premium system only Not for Harman Kardon premium system. (e.g. LJB4100BA radio)
» Provides aftermarket replacement radio the necessary wiring without cutting/splicing factory plug/connectors.
» Factory amplifier, GPS and CD changer must be disconnected and will no longer function.
» Provides wiring for up to 8 speaker: Main door speakers/tweeters and subwoofer(s). To retain radio and replace OE amplifier, purchase our AIH-JAGAP instead.
» Combine with our AIH-JAGARCA for a seamless install using 8-pin Alpine/Black cable already fitted.
» Includes 18-pin amplifier speaker connector, 12-pin radio power connector and 26-pin MQS connector.
» Eliminates the need to run new wiring to OE speaker locations.
» Retain existing speakers or install new speakers/subwoofers of your choosing.

2.AIH-JAGRCA

Connect aftermarket amplifier to new radio in select 2000-06 Jaguar premium audio systems.
To replace Jaguar/Alpine premium radio and amplifier with aftermarket may require rewiring the entire system; however with the AIH-JAGRCA and ARH-JAG2P (sold separately); the process wiring an aftermarket amplifier just got a lot easier. The AIH-JAGRCA kit provides 4-channels of audio, amplifier turn-on via the AI-NET cable already fitted (used to connect radio to factory amplifier). This welcome addition does not require running new RCA patch cables to the trunk/hatch and mates perfectly with the A-NET cable and does not compromise vehicles wiring integrity should it become necessary to re-install original radio/amplifier if and when vehicle is offered up for sale/trade. Exclusive to 2000-06 XK (X100) and 2000-03 XJ (X308) with Alpine premium audio system only. Not applicable to Harman Kardon amplified system.
» Exclusive to 2000-06 Jaguar Alpine premium systems only Not for Harman Kardon premium system. (e.g. LJB4100BA radio)
» Provides aftermarket amplifier with the necessary signals without cutting/splicing factory plug/connectors.
» Factory amplifier, GPS and CD changer will no longer function.
» Eliminates the need to run new wiring from radio to new amplifier location.
INSTALLATION: See Diagram
1. Disconnect or locate factory Ai-NET plug from radio
2. Connect 1 of 2 adapter cables to the factory Ai-NET plug
3. Connect RCA (L+R) Front/Rear to the RCA outputs on aftermarket radio
4. Connect Blue wire to aftermarket radio amplifier turn-on wire (usually blue/white)
5. Repeat these steps with second harness at the other end of the factory AI-NET cable (luggage compartment)

These will avoid me having to run new wires all over the car.
What do you all think of the alternatives.

 

Sounds as though using the Ai net interface would be neatest.
When l changed over to my 6.9 single din l made my own patch cable using electronic store sockets, not as neat as aftermarket patch but still plug and play. I run a 5 channel with speaker level input so a little wiring was still required but l was updating all speakers anyway.

 

Please understand, you can't use the OEM amplifier with your aftermarket head unit. It won't work. There is no firing up the amp, the amp is junk to you now.

The wiring for the speakers goes from the OEM amp in the boot to all the speakers in the car. You need to connect your aftermarket head unit speaker outputs to those wires in the boot.

You don't have to take the car apart to run new wires from the new head unit to the boot. The wires will run down the side of the centre console, under the rear seat and out to the boot. You could try and use the existing wires from the head unit to the boot - you can use any of them you want as they no longer do anything, but you still have to rewire them to bypass the now useless amp. If I was doing it, I would just run new wires to the connector at the amp, as I think it would be easier than trying to re-purpose the old ones.

 

Looking for an aftermarket amplifier since I am going with the ARH-JAG2P and AIH-JAGRCA if needed. I will need to find a way to run the backup camera into the trunk space. I read that I may be able to do so via the area where the conv top lines are located. I will have to inspect that area and make a decision sooner or later. The less work I have to do the better. I still have some work to do at the dash while I wait for the 2 interface harnesses arrive. I am replacing all the wood trim in the car. How does the steering wheel lower? I am still new to this car. Just asking. If no response, I will do the research later on. Also, the seats have to come out but they do not move fore or aft nor up and down. I will remove the seat modules and use a fuse tap to jump the connector to move the seats fore and aft.

 

I see you’ve been doing a lot of research and realizing there’s so many ways to approach this, and again the end result that you’re looking for should be the deciding factor in how you move forward, and what equipment/wiring setup/interfaces/etc you ultimately use. That being said, after re reading this entire thread, I myself only somewhat understand your ultimate goal. Not being rude, sorry if it comes off that way but from what I gather you replaced head unit, were looking for a way to get signal from that to stock amp, and are now going with the above mentioned interfaces to simplify wiring, (understandable) and are NOW looking for advice on aftermarket amplifier. Well this is what I mean where the clarity plays a huge factor. There are hundreds, if not thousands of aftermarket amps, that are all different in many ways.

let’s start real simple, supposing the interfaces and aftermarket head unit all cooperate with each other and bypass stock amp and send output signal (ie music) to all the speakers you have( still not sure if you have dash tweeters and/or tweeters in the triangle shaped door locations by the mirrors, some clarity there would help)
1) are all the speakers you plan to use the stock( original equipment) ones or are they replaced with aftermarket?
2)do you have a factory installed subwoofer?
2a) if yes to sub question is it stock or aftermarket?
3)this is where things get messy: what are the ratings of the new head unit? A lot to unfold here, but pertaining to your situation what kind of adjustable equalization does the head unit have? Does it have separate subwoofer adjustments? Does it have built in hi/low pass x-over abilities? How many sets of rca pre-outs are there in the head unit?(may not be relevant if signal to amp is through ai-net cable) how many volts are the rca preouts rated to output?
4)are you looking to amplify just the speakers or speakers and a sub? (This is where exactly how many speakers and locations are relevant, as you don’t wanna amplify tweeters that aren’t component sets without crossovers, and even then, care is needed to not overpower them or send low frequency signals to them to avoid distortion or blowing them)
5)adding an aftermarket amplifier will require additional wiring for 12v IGNITION ON power(important, and possibly fused depending on amp) and dedicated ground(NOT DIRECT TO BATTERY!)as well as remote turn on(which I believe will be provided by your interface cables) 6)now on to aftermarket amps: just like anything you get what you pay for. A super cheap, “no-name” brand amp claiming to provide huge out put is most certainly a waste of time, so if it’s on the shelves at Walmart or any auto parts store store, stay away. Cheap amps will cause you nothing but headaches, poor quality sound and potentially a small fire (ask why I know that lol!)
7)again, ratings. Amp ratings on their boxes (even high end ones) are sometimes very misleading, pay close attention to the rms vs max wattage ratings per channel, whether it’s at 12v or 14.4v, bridged, and at what ohm impedance is specified. Most amps will advertise their highest rating to look bigger and better but you may not be wiring it that way.
8)pair amps and speakers accordingly, as far as channels needed, ohms ratings per channel (or bridged) to your speakers. Example: an amp that says 50w per channel x4 @4oms max means that at maximum, if input voltage is good and grounding is sufficient that 50w per channel “can”be produced, but sustaining that would mean all settings on amp are set to maximum, and it would most likely overheat at a high rate of speed, and likely blow fuses or internal components. It’s best to have an amp that’s slightly overpowered for your speakers and run it at a lower gain setting, resulting in cleaner sound and less heat generated by the amp.

theres a lot to all this, with miles of information available out there. It may seem overwhelming, but do the backend research and set things up properly and you will be happier, and spend less time replacing things or messing around with settings all the time.

 

In response to dibbit and stevis05, your inputs are greatly appreciated. I am pretty ignorant as to the workings of the entertainment system on my 2001 XK8 hence all of the questions even being unclear most of the times.
Given that the factory amp will not work with the aftermarket head unit, I opted to go with the AIH-JAGRCA and ARH-JAG2P to get the new system going. The reason for the query about amplifiers is simply because if I want amplified sound, those who have already done so would have done the research and would know what works and what would not work. SO PARDON ME. I am not looking for the BOOM,BOOM sound, just something to produce quality sound. My car is a convertible and no massive sub woofers will be involved. Replacement of the current speakers will be done cause theyare 24 years old. I know that the specs for the new head unit is critical but I opted not to post it as I do not think it is critical to what my original query was:
"HOW TO GET SOUND THROUGH THE SPEAKERS VIA THE CURRENT WIRING OF THE XK8. Nothing more. Once I figure out how to get that done, the rest will fall into place.
I contacted Monkeybrain who installed the same unit I am installing in my car and he told me he used a 12 pin connector from InCarTech in the UK but because of the tarriffs issue in the US that option is off the table so I researched and went with the patch cables from Discount Stereos here in the US.
When the patch cables get here, I will know what the next steps would be.
Since I have to remove the rear seat to get the reverse camera into the trunk area, I may look at dibbit's idea to run new wires at the same time if need be.
@ michaelH: Thanks for the info re the 2001 EG. I found it and it is indeed different. However, the 2001 schematic shows 8 speakers but my car has 10 speakers. I guess they did not include the 2 tweeters. Nonetheless, it will work for me.
While I am waiting for parts, I am working on moving the 3 gauge cluster (volts, oil and clock down to where the original radio lived. I am in the process of extending the 20 pin (only 13 used) connector for the cluster by approx 18 inches rather than dismantle the dash. Will post some pics later today.

 

Are you sure you've on the correct page, premium in car entertainment, fig 16.2 shows tweeters. Previous page is standard in car entertainment and does not show tweeters.

 

@baxtor You are correct. I was looking at the wrong schematic. I have a printout of the 2001 MY schematics so I will be following that going forward. Thanks for the correction.
@ throwback and dibbit: I have not removed my rear seat as yet. I have to make space in my garage to store the seats while I do the job. Did you have to drill new holes to run the new speaker wires? If no, where did you run the wires to get into the boot. I am also running a backup camera into the boot area. Your experience with this will be a great teacher for me.
Appreciate it.

 

There are grommets that you can run wiring through. Don't drill any new holes, as it may affect your fuel consumption.