Well my minor leak of one of the valley pipes has turned into a major leak.
I can see a lot of coolant in the "valley" and the engine is now running a little rough (just a little hesitant) or maybe better better described as lumpy. I am assuming some of the coolant has got into one of the ignition coils and causing a misfire?
It is being trailered to the garage but they are not Jag specialists so I would like to make sure they know what could be the issue with the lumpiness. Any idea's what is causing this?

 

could also be coolant getting under the knock sensors

 

Ask the car what it thinks is wrong:- check for DTCs & report back (actual codes, not the reader's interpretation).

Quite possibly knock sensor as skimlii notes. They don't like a coolant shower.

 

Coolant can't get from the valley to the coils/spark plug wells - unless you have a very substantial flood of coolant.

 

If the knock sensors are not functional you will have the attendant codes displayed.

do you have any engine fault code displayed. Knowing what they are, if any, is your first step.

i would want to know those before turning over the car to any repair shop.



Z

 

Engine light is always on so I will have to do a readout tomorrow morning before the car is picked up. Thanks all.

 

The garage I get to do the MOT (APK) don't fancy the valley hose replacement job.

I have looked for a video detailing how to remove the inlet manifold but have not yet found anything. I don't yet have my garage yet so my only option would be to do it outside.
How much work is it to remove the inlet manifold. Any special tools needed?

 

When I did mine (1998 XK8), I didn't fully remove the manifold, mainly because I didn't have the tool to release the fuel pipes to hand - that would be the only 'special' tool - and because I didn't want to drain the coolant to remove the throttle body. I removed the manifold-to-head bolts, and a few bolts that support the throttle body and lifted it all up far enough to get to the hoses. I'd suggest replacing the 8 inlet manifold-to-head gaskets while you're in there, as they aren't expensive.

 

It isn't a particularly difficult job, but not sure I'd be wanting to do it outside in a British north European winter

Can't help re a video, but I've attached the JTIS procedure for R&R of the inlet manifold to help you decide.

I used a 3-4cm long piece of 15mm plumbing pipe with a longitudinal cut as the 'special tool' to release the fuel lines.

Agree with bladerunner re replacing the 8 inlet gaskets.

 

Decided to let a shop do the job. In a few months I will have my own garage but it’s still being built and you never really know when they will finally be ready. It passed it’s APK (MOT) with just one new ball joint dust cover which is good news.