Rep+1 JNELSO on the timing sir,,
DavidYau.... Ahhhh silence is golden lol good job
Crbass.... Nice stable man but for the love of BOB show the GL some love lol --- JK

 

Unfortunately, no more room in the driveway, or on the street. Have three more cars not shown. Need to bulldoze the neighbors first.

 

I finally replaced the cylinder hoses for the convertible top. Used the UK supplier for the new hoses. Happy with the result.

Posted some more about it in my working thread.

 

On my 99XK8 convertible my badly aligned door window had chewed through the convertible top seal. Though I would try Stormsure Waterproof Repair flexible adhesive - claimed it worked - and outdoor campers swear by it.



Strapped it up and let it cure for 12 hours.




Did it work? Nope! Bugger! Still nothing lost in the attempt

 

Working with the rear subframe assembly of my Xkr -2000. Made the mistake of not loosening the hub nuts before dropping the subframe and later realising tbe torque spec of those nuts are unreal.. there was no way I could undo them with the whole assembly on the garage floor. Today I made a mounting bracket towards the concrete floor, bolting the control arm to the floor. Issue solved!

 

Replaced Bank 1 upstream heated O2 sensor (the easy side).

Off/on time:about 10 minutes.
Finding the damn breaker/going to the auto store to borrow the sensor tool: About 1.0 hours.

Better ratio on hunting for stuff/doing stuff than usual.

 

Finished dismantling the rear suspension on my daughter's A-class Merc to address a clonk.
Gents, if you think our XKs have some design absurdities, they're nothing compared to this car.

I'm out over £500 in parts already. Whoever designed it should not be allowed out unsupervised.

 

Three RealGauges installed. Were straightforward, easy to install, all work great. Thanks Steve, great addition to the cars.

 

My 98 Brit car NOT TO MENTON THE 2000 S is a COLLOSSEL pain to work on--everything crammed in and of course expensive when in need of replacementAngry! I have a bunch of 50's Jags: one MK-VII race car, three Mk-1's, a XJ-6 parts car and tonnes of bits! the Mk-1's are straight and relatively rust free having been storage for decades SO-- I have a 4.2 and a GM 700 automatic transmission and all the goodies from the JX-6 along with a brace of H-8's to screw together for my personnel driver.

Attended to the 4L60 A/t yesterday will start checking what I need to screw the two together today!Cool

ANYONE HAVE THE GM A/t >4.2 Jag engine ADAPTER TO FLOG? JOHNS WANTS $450 FOR JUST THE PLATE!!!Unhappy

 

Replaced the Fluidmaster 400A fill valve tower in our master bathroom's American Standard toilet (which I installed back in 2006). The old fill valve tower failed internally sometime this morning and the water kept running even after the tank was full. I keep a couple of spare towers on hand just for times like these - they are mostly plastic and you never know how long they will last (sound familiar?). Virtually no working room between the left side of the tank and the bathroom wall where the fresh water connection is but I finally managed to get everything in position and back together properly. Man, I hate plumbing but I do appreciate Fluidmaster's tech support assistance....

 

My rear sway bar (ARB) refurbishment ..

Used Powerflex poly bushes and Meyle drop links... (same as i did on the front ARB)
The rear is a lot easier to do than the front..

Now just need to get the car off the jack stands and torque it all up to spec...







The torque spec ...

4 Bracket bolts...... 40-54 nm
Drop Link bolt/nut.. 30-40 nm

In hindsight i should have done this job using ramps and not axle stands..
Now need to put the car on ramps to torque it all up..
Oh well,we live and learn..

 

I have an S 4.0, I guess I SHOULD at least check to see if they have already been changed--since this seems to be an intrinsic defect, it SHOULD HAVE BEEN A WARRENTY ITEM!

How difficult was it? I have a full up shop but haven't torn into the S yet!

 

The 4.o is the same engine as in the S isn't it? I get the impression that the S transmission is seriously defective, is this tranny Jaguars answer to that?
Thanks

 

Brought the old girl out of storage - first time started since October.
She started without a hassle and then promptly began to leak coolant.


Really can't tell where the leak's coming from - it's hard to see from this photo but the leak doesn't seem to be from far up the height of the block.
Water pump & seals were replaced in the tail end of 2017... any thoughts as to where the leak could be?

 

Borrow a pressure test kit from Advance Auto or Autozone. That is always the quickest way to find coolant leaks, especially those that may be in difficult-to-see areas....

 

So: funny story. I did this today; the coolant bottle says 100kpa which comes to ~14.5PSI, so I pressurized the system and waited. Didn't get a leak as I'd expected around the area shown in my earlier photo.
So I pressurized it again, then left the car alone for 4 hours. It's dropped about 1PSI in that time.

Is there an overflow mechanism or something like that which may have caused the "leak"? As mentioned, the car was started for the first time since October so I'm wondering if maybe something unusual/goofy happened as a result...

 

Look at your pump and crossover pipe. Both pressure and temperature is a factor in the leak. The pump has a weep hole Located under the pump.

Link to pump and crossover R&R http://www.jagrepair.com/WaterPumpCrossoverPipexk8.htm

 

Took car to get NC state safety/emissions inspection. Passed last smog/emissions check.

Next time, car will be 20 years old, no more smog/emissions check in NC. Hallelujah!

 

A couple days ago I noticed that I had a hydraulic leak making its way through my new improved overhead console.

I had not operated the top in over a week. I guess the last time I did was when it started to fail. Took a while for the fluid to work its way down. Thankfully it had not dripped down into the lower console.


So yesterday I pulled the header all apart to find the source, guessing it to be the latch valve since the hoses from Top Hydraulics are not known to fail - ever.
Inspection revealed that the new latch valve I installed when I replaced the front hoses (June 2014) has started to seep a small amount.


Hoses from Top are fine - as expected.


At the time I installed the new latch valve there was nothing wrong with the original one. So I decided to just reinstall the original latch valve, hoping that it doesn't leak now after sitting for nearly 6 years.
A quick cleanup of the fluid residue and the old latch looks right at home.


The first test operation caused a bit of anxiety. Thankfully nothing spewed green fluid so I ran it a few more times. All looks good.

I will send the leaking latch valve off for a rebuild. Then swap it back into service at some point.

Worth noting that I have always had the pressure reduction mod the whole time the new valve was installed. So it failed even with the lower pressure.

I had to disassemble the overhead console again to clean up the minor amount of fluid that was working its way down through the screen.

All back together again in about 90 minutes.

 

I too had to have my yearly inspection done! I took it in and dropped it off last night (no I don't like leaving it places lol) and got the call today that it passed just fine! I live in a township where emissions are exempt, so definitely no issues there! Lol