Where to buy a new KB Supercharger
#1
Where to buy a new KB Supercharger
Does anyone know where to buy new supercharger? I hear the ken bell is good, are there any others or what configurations ill need? Just got beat by a Z4 and I don't like it. Does anyone know the cost or cost of Labor? I'm sure you wouldn't know until you get an estimate from the shop, but if anyone has any ideas, let me know . I'm looking to put it in my budget lol
2002 XKR
2002 XKR
#2
Avos has developed a kit to mount a KB twin screw
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...700-hp-154721/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...xtra-hp-42062/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...700-hp-154721/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...xtra-hp-42062/
#3
#4
Avos has developed a kit to mount a KB twin screw
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...700-hp-154721/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...xtra-hp-42062/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...700-hp-154721/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...xtra-hp-42062/
#5
Are you really in the mood for an all out modification cycle? If not, you might want to check all the basics. I would start with a COMPLETE maintenance cycle, and go from there. Actual numbers would not hurt either.
Check the fuel pumps. There are 2 of them. From what I understand, both can come on under high boost. Failed second pumps are apparently pretty common. Check the electrical guide, hunt for relays to control each pump. My understanding is that when the primary pump fails (your is not, but you could simulate it with pulling the relay), you need to attempt to start the car a few times, and the car's electronics will switch to the secondary pump automatically. If that fails, then you have a hint that the secondary pump has failed.
Also, check the inter-cooler water pump by the air box. It apparently turns on when the key is in accessory mode, even without starting the engine. If that pump is dead (not uncommon), you have heat soak, and loss of power. Check the cooling fluid for gelling as well as the oil.
In parallel to all of this, it does not hurt to get some numbers through the diagnostics port. Air intake temp, manifold pressure, fuel trims, etc.
Another apparently common practice is to try and spin the charger faster by changing the pulleys. Altogether way cheaper than something new. Also, if you have reasons to believe your charger is worn, you can always have it rebuilt. My understanding is that the clearance between the rotors and the housing can be reduced with a rebuild, and restore proper efficiency.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
Check the fuel pumps. There are 2 of them. From what I understand, both can come on under high boost. Failed second pumps are apparently pretty common. Check the electrical guide, hunt for relays to control each pump. My understanding is that when the primary pump fails (your is not, but you could simulate it with pulling the relay), you need to attempt to start the car a few times, and the car's electronics will switch to the secondary pump automatically. If that fails, then you have a hint that the secondary pump has failed.
Also, check the inter-cooler water pump by the air box. It apparently turns on when the key is in accessory mode, even without starting the engine. If that pump is dead (not uncommon), you have heat soak, and loss of power. Check the cooling fluid for gelling as well as the oil.
In parallel to all of this, it does not hurt to get some numbers through the diagnostics port. Air intake temp, manifold pressure, fuel trims, etc.
Another apparently common practice is to try and spin the charger faster by changing the pulleys. Altogether way cheaper than something new. Also, if you have reasons to believe your charger is worn, you can always have it rebuilt. My understanding is that the clearance between the rotors and the housing can be reduced with a rebuild, and restore proper efficiency.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
#6
Are you really in the mood for an all out modification cycle? If not, you might want to check all the basics. I would start with a COMPLETE maintenance cycle, and go from there. Actual numbers would not hurt either.
Check the fuel pumps. There are 2 of them. From what I understand, both can come on under high boost. Failed second pumps are apparently pretty common. Check the electrical guide, hunt for relays to control each pump. My understanding is that when the primary pump fails (your is not, but you could simulate it with pulling the relay), you need to attempt to start the car a few times, and the car's electronics will switch to the secondary pump automatically. If that fails, then you have a hint that the secondary pump has failed.
Also, check the inter-cooler water pump by the air box. It apparently turns on when the key is in accessory mode, even without starting the engine. If that pump is dead (not uncommon), you have heat soak, and loss of power. Check the cooling fluid for gelling as well as the oil.
In parallel to all of this, it does not hurt to get some numbers through the diagnostics port. Air intake temp, manifold pressure, fuel trims, etc.
Another apparently common practice is to try and spin the charger faster by changing the pulleys. Altogether way cheaper than something new. Also, if you have reasons to believe your charger is worn, you can always have it rebuilt. My understanding is that the clearance between the rotors and the housing can be reduced with a rebuild, and restore proper efficiency.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
Check the fuel pumps. There are 2 of them. From what I understand, both can come on under high boost. Failed second pumps are apparently pretty common. Check the electrical guide, hunt for relays to control each pump. My understanding is that when the primary pump fails (your is not, but you could simulate it with pulling the relay), you need to attempt to start the car a few times, and the car's electronics will switch to the secondary pump automatically. If that fails, then you have a hint that the secondary pump has failed.
Also, check the inter-cooler water pump by the air box. It apparently turns on when the key is in accessory mode, even without starting the engine. If that pump is dead (not uncommon), you have heat soak, and loss of power. Check the cooling fluid for gelling as well as the oil.
In parallel to all of this, it does not hurt to get some numbers through the diagnostics port. Air intake temp, manifold pressure, fuel trims, etc.
Another apparently common practice is to try and spin the charger faster by changing the pulleys. Altogether way cheaper than something new. Also, if you have reasons to believe your charger is worn, you can always have it rebuilt. My understanding is that the clearance between the rotors and the housing can be reduced with a rebuild, and restore proper efficiency.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
#7
As far as I know, these ECUs cannot be updated outside of what Jaguar has provided over the years. I assume it is because nobody has found it worthwhile to reverse-engineer the unit enough to allow for updated fuel tables, or bigger injectors. The other reality is that, up to a point, the existing system should adapt to whatever performance modifications you bolt on (like pulleys). There is an air flow meter, intake air temp, and intake manifold pressure sensors. If you "push" the blower, it will draw more air in, and it will be measured. If you enhance the intercooler, the cooler air temp will be measured. Based on these parameters, the fuel injector duty cycle should be adapted. Obviously, pushing more fresh air in will work up to the point where you cannot keep up with fuel (injectors maxing out). Separately, there is nothing in this effort to adapt the timing, besides stock knock sensors.
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#8
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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Avos has already proven that you can reliably increase boost and performance with other mods like injectors and tune. the stock ecu and injectors are capable enough in stock setting to handle 20%+ increases in boost and performance. injectors you can see where you're at on their duty cycle at max boost and rpm. up to 80%(10% on, 10%off) then there are other solutions around this too. the upper and lower pulleys are a good upgrade. or as I refer to as a good start
#11
Avos has already proven that you can reliably increase boost and performance with other mods like injectors and tune. the stock ecu and injectors are capable enough in stock setting to handle 20%+ increases in boost and performance. injectors you can see where you're at on their duty cycle at max boost and rpm. up to 80%(10% on, 10%off) then there are other solutions around this too. the upper and lower pulleys are a good upgrade. or as I refer to as a good start
I was talking with a guy from paramount performance about their upper pulley. I may go for it in about a week or two
#12
As far as I know, these ECUs cannot be updated outside of what Jaguar has provided over the years. I assume it is because nobody has found it worthwhile to reverse-engineer the unit enough to allow for updated fuel tables, or bigger injectors. The other reality is that, up to a point, the existing system should adapt to whatever performance modifications you bolt on (like pulleys). There is an air flow meter, intake air temp, and intake manifold pressure sensors. If you "push" the blower, it will draw more air in, and it will be measured. If you enhance the intercooler, the cooler air temp will be measured. Based on these parameters, the fuel injector duty cycle should be adapted. Obviously, pushing more fresh air in will work up to the point where you cannot keep up with fuel (injectors maxing out). Separately, there is nothing in this effort to adapt the timing, besides stock knock sensors.