Hello

I am in France and the mechanic is throwing his croissant across the garage with a set of codes that dont make sense to him. This was a recent code dump below

Code Control Module System Fault Description
U1041 SLCM Security and Locking Control Module Vehicle speed SCP message invalid
U1147 IC Passive Anti-Theft System SCP Key Status message missing
U1261 IC Instrument Cluster SCP - circuit failure
U1900 IC Instrument Cluster CAN communication fault
U2521 ASCCM Adaptive Speed Control CAN DSCCM module missing
U2521 IC Instrument Cluster CAN DSCCM module missing
U2522 ASCCM Adaptive Speed Control CAN TCM module missing
U2522 DSCCM Dynamic Stability Control CAN TCM module missing
U2522 IC Instrument Cluster CAN TCM messaging missing
U2523 ASCCM Adaptive Speed Control CAN ECM module missing
U2523 DSCCM Dynamic Stability Control CAN TCM module missing
U2523 IC Instrument Cluster CAN TCM messaging missing

B1234 DDCM Mirror Movement Mirror switch invalid input(s) to DDCM
B1402 PDCM Window lifts Passenger door window lift switch circuits fault
B1595 BPM Ignition switch input fault Conflicting “Key-In” and “START” signals at BPM
B1858 A/CCM Climate Control Refrigerant pressure signal circuit fault Panel code 23
B1948 A/CCM Climate Control Engine coolant temperature signal circuit fault Panel code 14

One problem was an overnight power drain and we think that's been sorted by disconnecting the sounder that hasn't been chirping. The other codes change and right now he can't read either engine or gearbox codes. Yesterday mechanic test drove the car to the local roundabout and back.... engine cut out half way there .... restarted and back onto the lift but then in the morning absolutely nothing.

Right now almost nothing happens at all .. turn the ignition on an the dash lights light up .. there are ten chirps but no flashing LED (where is that LED ? .. the manual makes no mention of it and nothing seems to flash) . Then turn the key and .. lights only. There was an earlier problem needing the fuel inertia cut off switch resetting.

The most recent code translated to (I've translated it but lost the code number ) ... BPM circuit to ignition switch: open circuit, short circuit to ground Ignition switch failure.

I am tending to think the ECM is ... "playing up" and perhaps why there is a NA ECM in lieu (see other thread (not the case thanks to JagV8)). Before tearing the entire car apart (and the mechanic wants his lift back for other clients) does anyone have any ideas...???

Many thanks !!!

 

Does the battery have 12.5 V or more ignition off? 11V or more when cranking? It could also be bad connections to battery or ground.. Delete the codes, do a hard reset and see which ones come back it the battery and connections are okay.

 

I just wanted to add, it is very unlikely there is a fault on the ECM. People normally find that out by spending money on having the ECM tested/repaired or by buying a replacement, only to discover absolutely nothing has changed. Start with the basics as RJ237 has listed above and do some other tedious checks like making sure all your fuses are good, but right now your likeliest suspect is the battery. Boring I know, but you should always start by testing the most basic things before moving on to the complicated bits.

 

Agreed dibbit and thank you RJ237 will have the mechanic check ..

 

+1 as the PCM (aka ECM) is remarkably robust

 

These cars a very sensitive to battery voltage i had similar problem battery went dead i boosted the car and had all kinds of codes would not start. Finally I just bought a new battery unhooked the old one left it over night charged up the new one installed it cleared all the codes and like magic all solved that was a year ago.
these cars are really sensitive to battery voltage and even if you get it running by boosting it it still acts strange and will kick many random codes

 

I should have stressed that the ignition lights up but then doesn't crank .. nothing more happens after turning on the ignition ( starter does work when tested on its own but naturally vehicle doesn't run)

 

Personally I would avoid trying to jump start these cars, or use them as a jump start source for another vehicle. Charge the battery overnight is the safest thing to do.

 

Hello,
No offence intended. The starter motor also works at 12.2V. Just test the battery and you'll know more. Control units cannot work properly if the voltage is too low.

Best regards, Willi

 

+1 on all the advice about battery and charging.
Let's boil it all down to the essence.
All of the following should/need to be done to address the crazy codes/non-start that you are seeing. Code reading is only a small part of the diagnosis of older cars.
1: Replace battery with a new AGM and buy a Battery Tender. This may seem like foolish expense, but if you are paying a professional mechanic to debug your classic car, this is WAY less expensive and the only prudent way to start.
2: Clean every ground and power terminal, not just at the battery. (bat terminals, GND at the trunk, power at the engine and at the starter, ECU 12vdc terminals) Every one of them is a candidate for electrolytic corrosion and a hidden point of failure. If your tech refuses or seems reluctant, walk away, get a tow truck and take your baby to someone who doesn't.
3: Check resistance of the starting motor coils and/or check the voltage while cranking. (if cranking will happen) If still no-crank, the voltage at that time (key in start position) is informative. If below 10VDC, you likely have a major short in the coils of your starter. (or st solenoid) If V>10 & V<11.6, you likely have some other starting gremlin. If V>11.6, that would say that your no-start is caused by something talking to the ECU that keeps the start circuit from happening.