Good Afternoon All!

My car has now twice thown the P0455 Code for teh Evap System Gross Leak. I have been told to change out the gas cap (I have ordered one).

From Grahms posting i have read that it can be any of the following:

1. fuel cap off
2. fuel cap seal defective
3. EVAP system leak (canister damage, pipework damage)
4. EVAPP valve to ECM drive circuit - open circuit, short circuit, high resistance
5. EVAPP valve power supply circuit - open circuit
6. EVAPP valve to engine purge pipe damaged / blocked / leaking
7. EVAPP valve operating vacuum hose leak / blockage
8. EVAPP valve failure
9. Fuel tank leak

Is there an order of attack reccomended? Is this something that might be worthwhile having an expert look at to narrow down the diagnostic (Assuming the fuel cap fix doesn't take)?

Thank you.

 

If it is not the fuel cap, get the car on stands or on a lift. Find the two rectangular black boxes (the charcoal canisters) between the rear wheels. There is a valve between them, and it is connected to a little black hose about 2" long. Inspect that little hose carefully...it tends to dry rot and leak. It is less than $10 at the dealer.

That valve is the EVAPP valve, and that also could be the problem per the list you cited, but it also could be you need to replace the purge valve per the attached Tech Bulletin.

 

There are many RECALLS, SERVICE ACTIONS and TSBs for this era of XK
in addition to the one WhiteXKR posted for the EVAP system faults.

bob gauff

 

Good Afternoon:

My vehichle is also experiencing the fuel smell inside the cabin as described per the TSB's. With a car that is now 11 years old, will Jaguar help to cover the costs of this repair under a "warranty claim" as they describe in the TSB's.

Is it dangerous to continue driving this vehicle as is?

Would you reccomend performing this work yourself, taking it to a Jaguar Dealer, or a private mechanic familiar with these cars?

Please advise.

Thank you.

 

The chances of Jaguar footing the bill on a car out of warranty are slim to none. By all means, DIY with the guidance of the forum if you can. These procedures are not particularly diffucut if you can get under the car. A qualified independent shop is another alternative. Using the dealer on an older Jag will drain your wallet fast.

 

You can call a Dealer with your VIN and ask if there are any recalls or campaigns OPEN on your vehicle.

The service adviser will tell you yes or no!!!!

bob gauff

 

Hi everyone, I know this is an older thread, but still relative. I had the dreaded P0455 code come and go and so I decided to check it out. After reading all of the TSB's posted by White XKR I decided I was armed with enough information to tackle the problem. I found the Canister Close Valve and removed it. Naturally it had quite a bit of "dust" in it. I tried to clean it out with brake clean but it was not working all that great. So, I needed a new CCV anyway, so I figured why not take it apart, can't make it any worse than it already is. It was Saturday and the car was out of service no matter what I did

I pried away the lock tabs gently and removed the cover, being careful not to lose the flat "O" ring or the spring and seal. I was then able to really clean it well with the brake clean and then sprayed it with a Teflon based penetrating oil. I let it sit for a while and then used an air hose to remove the excess oil. The result was a free moving piece where before it was very sticky. I reassembled the part, blew out the hoses that lead to the CCV and then re-installed. The result was that I now have a fully functioning CCV and no more P0455 light on. I was only successful because the electrical solenoid part of the CCV was still good, it just kept getting hung up when trying to seal.

So I spent about 40 minutes and saved about $100.

Just thought I would share this in case anyone else was adventurous enough to try to fix a non-serviceable part

 

very nice fix, and appreciate you sharing it. I am sure pics would have been the proverbial 'frosting', but hey...better than a kick in the shorts, eh?

 

I have this problem but I'm not a dyi girl. Does anyone know how much these types of repairs usually cost?

 

It really depends greatly exactly what is wrong with your system, but chances are it is not more than a few hundred.

 

Thanks to all on this post. I have the same problem. Gross leak. After reading all the posts I feel ready to fix the problem.

 

Had the same problem for the last few weeks new $40.00 gas cap and code has not reappeared.

 

Failed emisson test here in Illinois. After driving about 50 miles check gas cap lights up, after driving another 10 miles orange engine light comes on with code p1000 p0455 p0447. Have replaced close valve and all hoses around it. Replaced purge valve. With key on the wires that conect to the close valve when tested with multimeter read 12 volts (very low amps) but does not close the valve. 12 volts appled directly from the battery closes the valve. My question is when does this valve close ? Should it close right a way when the ignition is turned on or does full voltage get aplied after it is driven a distance. Any help will be appreciated in advance thank you all.

 

The valve remains OPEN until 'commanded-closed' during the EVAP test.

bob