Changing coolant in 2001 4.0 V8 - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

Go Back   Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum >
Log In 

S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 ) 1999 - 2008 2001 - 2009
Sponsored by Jagbits
Click Here

Changing coolant in 2001 4.0 V8

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 09-08-2011, 07:35 PM
tot tot is offline
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Cote d'Azur
Posts: 70
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Default Changing coolant in 2001 4.0 V8

I need to change the coolant on my 2001 4.0. According to JTIS there is a drain plug somewhere but looking under the engine (without lifting it up) I can't seem to locate anything that looks like that. Where is that drain plug hiding?

I will also change some bits of the cooling system whilst at at as preventive maintenance, like water pump, thermostat housing and some hoses. Since I have never worked on a cooling system before, is there any conventional wisdom that I should know to avoid leaks? Or is it as simple as just pull the bits off and put the new ones on, just making sure the surfaces are clean, and figure out how various clipses work?

And oh yeah, the water pump pulley, do you loosen and tighten the bolts when the belt is on?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-08-2011, 09:29 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 338
Thanked 27 Times in 22 Posts
Default

The main thing I'd do whilst I was there is replace the header tank, this is the most likely thing to fail....
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-09-2011, 03:04 AM
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Yorkshire, England
Posts: 18,118
Thanked 2,421 Times in 2,187 Posts
Default

I think the drain plug will be at one side (sorry, don't know which) of the bottom of the radiator, either set vertically or maybe horizontally. They often have a cross cut into the plug that takes a coin or the like. On my car there's a splash shield fastened beneath all that stuff, so that would have to come off first.

I expect you'd need to take the belt off. When fitting the new water pump do not overtighten the bolts. If you're unsure, get a torque wrench and look up the torque in JTIS
(Likely "hand tight" for a weakling. JTIS will give an actual figure.)

BTW, I hope the new pump comes with new bolts. I'd buy them if not, but that's me. They're likely "stretch" bolts.

A fair few (maybe many) of the hoses and plastic parts will be brittle or hardened now so you "ought" to replace them but it's a major pain and not especially cheap so you have decide. You sound to be thinking along the right lines already.

Last edited by JagV8; 09-09-2011 at 03:07 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-09-2011, 06:05 AM
tot tot is offline
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Cote d'Azur
Posts: 70
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by timfountain View Post
The main thing I'd do whilst I was there is replace the header tank, this is the most likely thing to fail....
I thought of skipping that, it was replaced five years ago and visually seems to be still in perfect condition.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-09-2011, 06:30 AM
tot tot is offline
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Cote d'Azur
Posts: 70
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JagV8 View Post
I think the drain plug will be at one side (sorry, don't know which) of the bottom of the radiator, either set vertically or maybe horizontally. They often have a cross cut into the plug that takes a coin or the like. On my car there's a splash shield fastened beneath all that stuff, so that would have to come off first.
I haven't took the splash shield off to have a look, but it must be there somewhere then.

Quote:
BTW, I hope the new pump comes with new bolts. I'd buy them if not, but that's me. They're likely "stretch" bolts.
Good point, the torque is 8Nm +90 degrees. it did not come with bolts, I'll need to order them then. Not this weekend job then..

Quote:
A fair few (maybe many) of the hoses and plastic parts will be brittle or hardened now so you "ought" to replace them but it's a major pain and not especially cheap so you have decide. You sound to be thinking along the right lines already.
Sure, when I ordered them from britishparts I pretty much took everything they had in the catalog related to cooling. The "extra" bits over the planned ones was not too expensive in my mind.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-09-2011, 09:32 AM
motorcarman's Avatar
Photobucket
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Decatur,TX
Posts: 4,944
Thanked 2,211 Times in 1,519 Posts
Default

The drain is on the lower right side of the radiator. I use a short length of hose to the drain tube to route it out from the plastic under panels.

bob gauff
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-26-2011, 08:21 PM
tot tot is offline
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Cote d'Azur
Posts: 70
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Default

Just an update if anyone is interested or for future reference.

No surprises with thermostat housing nor pipe work. There is a DIY here about thermostat housing elsewhere. For clips, I found locking pliers invaluable since I do not have special hose clips tool. Maybe one of those would have been a good idea.

DCCV was some struggling to figure out how to detach hoses. I ended up taking DCCV and aux water pump out together with all hoses detached from the other ends which are more easy to access. Even with something to allow detaching clips in confined spaces, the hoses were pretty stuck to the DCCV and would have been difficult to remove given the limited space. On installation some lube was required to push hoses back to metal tubes with rubber o-rings.

Now, the water pump. It turned out to be a disaster. The new style pump is a bit thinner than what I had and it seemed I have to use both old and new gasket together to make the bolts fit. Alright, 8Nm plus 90 degrees it is, and I did not like the feeling at all at the end of the 90 degrees. I had to take the bolts off to see what happened and lo and behold, two of them had snapped inside the block.

Damn... ok, a bit of drilling and try some extraction tools. Nothing. I did not want to try too hard to not to break an extraction tool inside, that would be undrillable. Ordered some left hand drill bits, maybe that helps and they get unwound but no... at the end no, I really had to drill up to 5mm and retap. Even I was very careful to make them straight, at the end both holes were a bit angled and I had to shave a bit off from the water pump holes to allow bolts to go through with ease.

(Note to self. Should have used the old water pump as drilling guide with some tape around the drill bits to get them straight. Fan shroud needs to come off in this case, otherwise no drill will fit. Or maybe with an angle extension it would).

New bolts and now chop about 5mm off the length and add 3mm more thread to make sure nothing blocks them going in. I also added two washers to ease the stress on the angled bolt heads against the water pump.

I found that Alldata says 12Nm for the water pump so I used that and added sealant on both sides of the gasket to make sure leak free operation (no old gasket this time). No problems this time and no leaks.

For the water pump pulley, again conflicting information. For my year, they say 10Nm but for later years 12Nm and replace the bolts. Hmm, I did order also new bolts for the pulley, but I decided to install old ones with 10Nm and keep the new ones as spares if needed.

No problems with filling or bleeding. Since the stated capacity is 10L and I needed 7L there was quite a lot of old coolant still lurking around. After the first using of the car the level still dropped to minimum so not all air gets removed with bleeding procedure. After the second use it still seemed to down a bit. I haven't used the car for the third time yet.

tl;dr: don't change your water pump.

Last edited by tot; 10-27-2011 at 04:33 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-15-2014, 12:22 PM
pmwestx's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Dallas
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
Default

The "bleeding" is essential. I replaced my water pump, thermostat and re-hosed my 2001 XJR with 77K miles. After refiling the coolant, start the car and let it idle for about 5 minuets. Once the thermostat opens, turn on the heater to high and set the throttle to 2500 rpm. you will likely need to add a little more coolant. I kept my level just below the overflow port in the neck of the reservoir. After about 10 minutes, set the throttle back to idle and inspect the coolant for bubbles. It took almost an hour before mine completely purged all of the air. Replace the cap and turn the engine off. Let it cool down to ambient temperature and check the coolant level. Top off if necessary. Be careful to not overfill. About 1/4"-3/8" below the fill spout bottom when the coolant is at ambient temp (overfilling will cause over pressurization). My cooling fans are now back to normal when the engine is shut off. They run between zero and 2 minutes post shut down in Texas.
Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply


Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Coolant Confusion jimmiejag XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 4 09-09-2015 03:56 PM
Fire in the engine bay. Daf11e Off Topic 18 09-07-2015 08:57 PM
Coolant leak from around the cap Xkr x100 XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 7 09-06-2015 09:50 AM
Coolant temp gauge Bcrary3 XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 9 09-03-2015 04:48 PM
Miss fire on 1, 4, and 6 Bowman XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 6 09-03-2015 04:17 PM


Tags
2001, 40, bleed, coolant, cooling, drain, fill, flush, jaguar, pump, replace, stype, system, type, water


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:32 PM.

JAGUAR and its logo are the registered trademarks of Jaguar Cars Limited. Jaguar Cars Limited is not affiliated with JaguarForums.com.