did you polybush your front wishbones,or jusy new rubbers,
thanks,

 

I'm installing Polybush all round, got the front and rear kits from Polybush, and polyurethane front sandwich mounts from M & C Wilkinson

 

I've come across that one too!

 

Thanks for that

 

I got a new up-rated heater matrix, freed up the vent flaps, re painted and fitted new seals, water valve, springs etc. now just need to get the mounting bobbins, which seem to be out of stock everywhere !!!

I can then install the heater back in the car.

 

what are the "mounting bobbins? Jon?

 

I think he means the double ended (threaded) rubber mounts.

 

if I could get a picture of one, and its dimensions, I might find them in a local surplus aircraft parts place that I frequent.

 

Thank you Jose, and Jeff, yes sorry, probably an English term, they are commonly known as Rubber Bobbins in the UK, the part No is C24792, but I have found someone that has some stock so I have ordered them.

 

Jon,
For some reason, I could not get a direct email to leave my outbox? So I have responded here:



As to the heater rod, perhaps these images will help. Let me know if you need something more. There is a bend in the rod. I am sure it must have been straight to begin with and then was bent as the previous owner tried to operate the valve after things were pretty much frozen in position from rust.

Lin

 

Brilliant, thanks Lin, I had seen the pics but not the dimensioned drawing, it all makes sense now, the wire from the valve to the flap looks bigger than 0.093" , but the holes in the trunions are the size you show, so I will get some correct size stainless wire and bend it as per you drawing.

Thanks again.

I have been studying your site re re-wiring, and I think you have a great approach also following Kriss's original spec. I will be taking the same approach myself, I hope you don't mind me copying yours and Kriss's work.

I haven't decided where to site the fuseboard yet, and need to find out if Classic Tech ship to the UK, there is nothing on the market in the UK that comes anywhere near as close to their brilliant design.

 

Jon,
I am sure Marc will send his box to you in the U.K. I know he has sent at least one to Australia. Feel free to copy anything you like. That is why I posted it all. I am sure that you can improve upon it 👍
Lin

 

Probably a bit late for this, but they say the heater motor from the S-type is more powerful and worth swapping in order to improve the air flow volume.

 

so call me mad, but I like my S type better than my XJ-6. Not only is the blower/fan motor very adequate, but the windshield wipers are a lot more effective than the lame wipers in the XJ.

I have a 1964 S type Heater box if anyone is interested.

What I do not know is, what is that Green Resistor thing on the side of the heater box?

 

Jon, On your heater restoration you mentioned that you replaced the seals. What seals did you replace and did you fabricate your own or find a source that supplies them? The only seal I was able to locate is the seal between the firewall and the blower motor port. I have started fabricating the other seals from neoprene rubber but I would prefer getting the correct seals if they are available.

 

good question because I tried to order these from SNG Barratt, and they were mostly NLA.

 

Jose, If I'm not mistaken, the resister is switched into the circuit to change the speed of the fan motor if you have a two speed fan.

 

Ted, yes my S type has a two-speed fan.

 

I fabricated them from either 5mm neoprene sheet or 12mm by 3mm neoprene on a roll, it was pretty straight forward, the old seals are only bits of foam, but I think there is a seal kit from SNG, but it's not very easy to find online, I will take a look and see what I can find.

 

The resistor is switched from the low speed side of the fan switch, it drops the voltage across the fan to around 6V for the low speed.