Hello I bought a 01 stype 4.0 and it had been sitting for at least 3 years. So it was a no start, the fuel system was completely covered in gelled gas had 3/4 of a tank of the crap so the fuel pump was junk. I cleared out the tank put in a used sending unit on the pass side. And blew out the one on the drivers side. I also replaced the fuel filter on the drivers wheel well. well I got it running for a little while but now it's not getting fuel up to the filter and it will start if I rotate the key but only for about 10 seconds I don't know what to do I could really use some input on the issue. Why are there 2 pieces to the fuel tank? And what should I do. I'm driving this thing back to Ohio from Florida in like a week and I need to fix it trying to get home to family. Thanks in advance

Austin.B

 

 

Dear Austin,

Welcome to the forum. That's a nice looking car you picked up.

Dealing with bad fuel can be a nightmare. You mentioned it had gelled. Unless you had the tank professionally cleaned, I bet there's still little bits of crud left to plug the line again.

At the very least, I'd drain and flush the tank again. The pump is probably trashed, too. Disconnect the fuel line at both ends and blow compressed air through it from the front, too. Plan on another filter or two, also.

I'd strongly suggest having the tank professionally cleaned. Not a lot of shops will do that anymore, so a good used tank may be a more practical option.

I also wonder about the tank vent system. I'm not familiar with how it works, but if the tank was full of gelled crud, it's possible the vent is clogged, too. That could be limiting your fuel flow. A quick workaround is to leave the fill cap off for troubleshooting, although that will cause some fault codes related to the evap system.

As far as testing the pump, I think the pump only runs briefly to pressurize the manifold when the key is first turned on. It doesn't run continuously until the engine actually starts. You may need to jumper power to it for testing.

I'd be hesitant to go on any long trips until you're positive the fuel issue has been completely sorted out. Don't despair, it can be fixed and made reliable, but you may be looking at a fair amount of work and expense. At the very least for your long trip, I'd suggest carrying a spare pump, several filters, tools, etc.

Also, why had the car been sitting for so long? Was there some other mechanical issue that caused the car to be parked?

 

You have 2 fuses feeding the relay that powers the pump #5 a 5a fuse Fig 1-4 in the Primary Junction Box & #17 a 15a fuse Fig 1-2 in the Rear Power Distribution Box. I would also check the relay and maybe swap with another like it but remember if the relay is bad you just moved the problem to another location.

I would check the fuses & relay first and if they are good take a fuel pressure reading at the schrader valve and see if you have pressure on start and running. From what you had experienced with junk in the lines you might be seeing a little residue from it.

Link http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...x2022001en.pdf

Also forgot to mention the electronic control module in the rear.

 

Great ideas. The car will start up and run but shut off it probably has clogged lines. The tank is clean. Put about 2 hours into that. The guy I bought it off of. His partner didn't like the blind spot so they parked it.

 

I've had fuel almost shoot up to the top of the headliner out of this white fuel port

 

But I intermediatly get fuel pressure to this line (new filter)

 

And is this deck lid off a supercharged model? And anyone have the spoiler to it mine broke?

 

Most likely just a stick on emblem. When the R came out in 2003 and onwards the deck lid was changed so they don't interchange with the earlier cars.
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So I got this thing running then I overheated it now the lifters are making all kinds of noise and it's running like absolute crap no oil water mix. So what I'm thinking is the oil got too hot and it's so thin that it's not properly opening the valves? I'm pretty distrant about this. Please give me your input. And the hoses on the fuel sending units were cracked and Britle

 

Ooh, that's not good news. What exactly happened when it overheated? Did steam vent from the cooling system? Or was it just the gauge showing hot?

The reason I ask is I think the PCM has some overheat protection logic. Hopefully somebody more in the know can jump in. When an overheat is sensed (whether real or from a faulty sensor), cylinders are alternately disabled (injectors shut off) to allow a limp home capability without melting or warping important bits. In laymen's terms, the engine will run like crap. This may only be on the V6, so forgive me if I'm in left field. Again.

I wonder if the engine may make also some strange sounds while in this mode. This could be confused with lifter noise.

Fingers crossed you had a false overheat signal, and the PCM responded as designed.

 

Nope, not good at all.. Do not attempt to run the vehicle until you get this sorted out...

 

The 4.0 cannot detect overheat till it's far too late and also can't do anything about it. You have to be careful as with most cars with alloy heads not to let it happen. Fingers crossed that it didn't go too far.

 

OK so I cooked the oil, I replaced it and now the lifter chatter is gone the car does run like crap, and I think it might be in a limp mode because i've unplugged three of the coil packs towards the back on the pastor side without change. The gauge didn't go above half but the car overheated had to, smoked a little bit coming from the top of the motor and the lifters were knocking. I replaced the hose I don't know if it didn't read hot because there wasn't any coolaNt in it. No smoke or steam from the exhaust and no oil in the water or water in the oil it's not losing any water but it's making a lot of exhaust noise. Do you think the coil packs were damaged possibly?

 

I was only a couple blocks from home when it stalled out at a stoplight and I waited about 5minutes I had to put my foot to the floor to get it running to get home

 

Your engine, like all overhead cam designs, does not have lifters. Oil or lack thereof has no effect on opening of the valves. The oil does not overheat and thin out unless the engine cooling system has virtually failed.

You might now be discovering why this car was parked and abandoned some years ago.

 

Okay so i got some codes can someone please tell me what they all mean.
0102-MAF or VAF A circuit low input
0113- sensor 1 circuit high input
0303- cylinder 3 misfire detected
0308- cylinder 8 misfire detected
0353 ingnition coil c primary/secondary circuit malfunction
0354 ingnition coil d primary/secondary circuit malfunction
1131 manufactuter contrl fuel air metering
1151 manufactuter contrl fuel air metering
1383 manufactuter contrl ingnition system or misfire
i proceeded to clear the codes too look for more i drove for probably 5 min, then codes popped up they were cylinder 3 and 8 misfire so im going to swap coil packs on that side from 1/3 and 5/8 and see if the codes follow. This thing is not overheating, there is no oil/water mix or water/oil mix. The exhaust is making popping noises and is not constant.
The jaguar was parked because they got a new volkswagon jetta running and driving completely operable 100% it was running great like a bat out of hell, I cant believe how those cars wrap up like up to 6k in no time. with this new found information it making me believe that this things coils are screwed. fingers crossed.

 

drove it a little still only the two codes are present

 

Yes, those two coils may be on their way out. Swapping them for confirmation sounds like a good idea.

With so much going on with your engine, it may be time to start from scratch, instead of bouncing from crisis to crisis in reaction mode. Do some very basics:

1) New spark plugs. (Swap the two suspect coils while you're in there.)

2) Drain the oil, change the filter, refill with correct amount of proper grade.

3) Pressure test the cooling system. Drain and refill is optional, but at the very minimum, make sure the level is correct after the pressure test.

4) Change the fuel filter again, once you've run about a tank through the engine. Get a fuel injection pressure tester and make sure the rail pressure is within specs. This is VERY important since you had fuel goo in the tank and this could have affected the fuel pressure regulator Make sure you are using a top-quality brand of fuel. Stay away from grocery store fuel, for example.

5) New air filter.

6) Try a new battery, too. S-types are very prone to strange problems caused by failing batteries. Plenty of examples in this forum. Even if the battery was new, it may be marginal now if you had to do a lot of cranking while working on the fuel issue. Don't just gloss over this suggestion.

Those are some basics for now. If the engine continues to act up, it's time to run a compression test and do some deeper diagnostics.

I'm confused about the "overheating" incident you mentioned. I was wrong, I mean less correct than usual, when I mentioned hydraulic lifters. They aren't used on these engines. Sorry for any confusion. I agree with the earlier comment that your engine would have to be seriously overheated (as in turning into a melted blob) before you'd see the oil deteriorate very much. That's why I suggested fresh oil, so you have a baseline to see if anything changes in the future. The "overheat" could have been as simple as a leaking valve cover gasket leaking oil on the exhaust manifold, or something like that. The clatter could have been low oil quantity causing the pump to starve, I don't know.

I'd also be VERY leery of your plan to drive the car long distance until you get everything sorted out. A UHaul and trailer is looking better and better all the time. Then you can work through the issues from the comfort of home and take your time, instead of having to shoot from the hip in full panic mode. Don't be afraid to adjust your plans accordingly if the car isn't in top reliable condition.

Do you know the seller, or was this a purchase from a family member or acquaintance? If an unknown seller, the story behind the sale may not be 100% true. Hopefully they didn't sell you a car with engine problems. Remember, all problems can be fixed. It's just a matter of correctly diagnosing them first.

 

Good, you are making progress. Don't disconnect the coils for troubleshooting as you mentioned earlier. The PCM may try to adapt and you may get misleading results. This isn't like on an older engine where you could do a cylinder balance test by pulling spark plug wires one at a time.

For the misfire codes, please read my thesis in post #12 here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...firing-146818/

The main gist is that a "misfire" can be anything affecting power from that particular cylinder, not just an ignition problem as the nomenclature might lead you to believe.