We have a 2001 jaguar s type that isn't starting all light on dash are coming on. Checked all fuses, all are fine. Had the starter checked and it was fine. All relays are working. Just puzzled on what could be the problem.

 

Failing battery is #1 suspect.

 

Any PATS codes from the security light in the center of the top dash??

bob

 

Is car a new acquisition that has not yet started?
Is gear selector really in park?
Is it not cranking at all?
Is it cranking but not starting?
What do IP lights show when IGN is moved from RUN to START?
What is the measured battery standing voltage?
If all these haven't revealed fault, is fuel fresh and uncontaminated?

Gosh . . . guessing games can be as frustrating as your fault condition.
Answers to above will help us help you.

Cheers,

Ken

 

The light is blinking rapidly when key is turned to crank the car. Lights on dash come on but no kind of cranking from the engine.

 

car is not cranking at all. And the dash light for the alarm blinks rapidly when car ignition is moved from start to run.

 

battery is brand new. Drove the car from my mother's house to our house, car started and drove fine going back home. Woke up the next morning, and the car didn't want to crank at all.

 

The light will blink rapidly for 60 seconds.............................
60 seconds of 4hz flashing.....................
THEN it will 'blink' a code!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bob

 

[QUOTE=motorcarman;1668262]The light will blink rapidly for 60 seconds.............................
60 seconds of 4hz flashing.....................
THEN it will 'blink' a code!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I checked the blinking codes on the dash. It gives me 7 blinks. One 2 second blink then 6 intermittent blinks after that.

 

Sounds to me like a PATS 16 fault. You will need to check the SCP network.

I remember attending NP00 (New Product 2000) for the 2000MY S-Type training course. The instructor would introduce faults in the demonstration vehicle for us to find the cause and remedy the repair.

One time he pulled a wire to the boot lid VALET button and told us to diagnose the fault and offer a solution.

One of the guys in the class was checking on bulkhead connectors, a few others were looking at fuses.

We told the instructor that the the engine would not crank/start and we needed to use WDS to check the modules.

He 'got a real strange look on his face' and told us that it was NOT the problem he caused. He kinda panicked and started checking what he did to the car and what was actually wrong.

He had no idea what was going on but noticed that the PATS light was 'blinking'.

He counted the 'blinks' and determined the PATS Code. (I think it was 16)
He printed out the PATS fault page (the one I uploaded) and we ALL went to work.

We finally found the problem after wire continuity tests it turned out to be a bulkhead connector above the left foot of the driver side connector.

One of the students had moved some harnesses while checking wire colors and disturbed the connector. It was NOT bolted TIGHT and became loose, not making contact.

We tightened the harness connector bolt and the car started OK.

We learned MORE than the instructor bargained for!!! He learned something too.

We should NEVER stop learning.

bob

 

thanks for that information. I will check that bulk head connection. Hopefully that's the problem.

 

It could be MANY connectors in the vehicle harnesses. Not just loose but corrosion could be a problem.

Sometimes a failed module will shut down a network.

The fault is with the PCM and the Standard Corporate Protocol Network communication.

The KEY info is stored in the INST PK so the INST PK and PCM challenge each other to verify that the key is correct.

Check the PCM pins for corrosion as well as the Instrument Pack connectors.

Might be a 'long-shot' but try another key???

bob

 

Good morning bob. Thanks for this other bit of info. I wI'll definitely check the connectors . Because it rained hard couple weeks before this happened, and I noticed that there was water in the trunk. I will pull the connector loose and check all the pins for corrosion.

 

My advise is to put a small hole in the floor of the spare wheel well near the battery and one on the opposite side to drain water away while you look for the leak.

Every time a customer came in with a leak in the S-Type boot I would punch a small hole to drain the water and advise them to fix the leak or schedule for a leak check/repair at the dealer.

The X200 was prone to water leaking into to boot area. Even condensation corrosion can affect modules there and not have to be submerged.

bob

 

I found that with mine that in the winter that after driving a while that I was getting water condescension due to fact that there is no lining on the boot/trunk lid. As heated air can hold more water than cold this will occur every winter as the warm air from the cabin will go into the boot. So I have put a bag of silicon there to stop this problem.