Car making strange sound while turned off
So since yesterday my car started to make a very odd sound. I am putting the video for everyone to see what I mean. The car has no contact, is locked. The moment I give contact with key or turn on car completely it disapears. I did charge battery untill full also yesterday, it was also ok for few hours. Since monday was severe weather change, from plus to minus and also snow. Could that be the reason or siomething else?
If I would not know the background story and I would hear this noise in an old black & white movie, I'd say that is the noise of the wiper motor...
That said, My S-Types also create inexplicable noises after removal of the key - I have the impression that my noises come from the A/C or ventilation unit somehow, but I cannot explain them.
That said, My S-Types also create inexplicable noises after removal of the key - I have the impression that my noises come from the A/C or ventilation unit somehow, but I cannot explain them.
Hmm, that is an odd one. Like Peter, I was thinking it was coming from the wipers. IIRC, there's a function that automatically parks the wipers when the key is removed, even if the switch was left on. Under the hood, try removing relay R16, the wiper park relay. Duplicate the fault conditions and see if that helps.
My other thought, same as Peter, is one of the doors in the heat/AC system. Is the noise louder inside the cabin? Leave one of the windows down so you can hear from outside and then duplicate the fault conditions. If louder inside, try pulling fuse F20 at the primary junction box. This is the small fuse panel inside the cabin, just forward of the hinges for the right front door. This will disable the entire heat/AC system, so don't drive like that.
My other thought, same as Peter, is one of the doors in the heat/AC system. Is the noise louder inside the cabin? Leave one of the windows down so you can hear from outside and then duplicate the fault conditions. If louder inside, try pulling fuse F20 at the primary junction box. This is the small fuse panel inside the cabin, just forward of the hinges for the right front door. This will disable the entire heat/AC system, so don't drive like that.
Hi Charlies,
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.
Is it possible the noise is coming from the throttle body motor? It kind of sounds like the butterfly valve is opening and closing.
With an inexpensive mechanic's stethoscope, or a long metal tool such as a screwdriver or socket extension, you can carefully probe various components with one end of the tool and hold the other end to your ear to isolate the source of the noise.
It is helpful if you tell us the year, model and engine of your Jaguar.
Cheers,
Don
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.
Is it possible the noise is coming from the throttle body motor? It kind of sounds like the butterfly valve is opening and closing.
With an inexpensive mechanic's stethoscope, or a long metal tool such as a screwdriver or socket extension, you can carefully probe various components with one end of the tool and hold the other end to your ear to isolate the source of the noise.
It is helpful if you tell us the year, model and engine of your Jaguar.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; Mar 19, 2025 at 05:08 PM.
Hi Charlies,
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.
Is it possible the noise is coming from the throttle body motor? It kind of sounds like the butterfly valve is opening and closing.
With an inexpensive mechanic's stethoscope, or a long metal tool such as a screwdriver or socket extension, you can carefully probe various components with one end of the tool and hold the other end to your ear to isolate the source of the noise.
It is helpful if you tell us the year, model and engine of your Jaguar.
Cheers,
Don
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.
Is it possible the noise is coming from the throttle body motor? It kind of sounds like the butterfly valve is opening and closing.
With an inexpensive mechanic's stethoscope, or a long metal tool such as a screwdriver or socket extension, you can carefully probe various components with one end of the tool and hold the other end to your ear to isolate the source of the noise.
It is helpful if you tell us the year, model and engine of your Jaguar.
Cheers,
Don
So the car is 2004 2.7D with twin turbos.
I found what is making the noise. It is cooling fan rotating which runs normally just max 1 minute after car shuts down but now it runs constantly while turned off. I do not know what might be causing it. I also made another video to show:
I'm not familiar with the Diesel model at all. On other models, and likely the Diesel, there is a protective mode if the coolant temperature is high after switching off the engine. The cooling fan is commanded to run for a short period, even with the key off. I've experienced this on my '02 V6 on very hot days.
Are the Diesel turbos liquid cooled? If so, maybe it's normal for the fan to run for a short period after shutdown to help keep the turbos from getting too hot. This is pure guesswork on my part, so don't read too much into it. But maybe the fan is getting the normal command to run at low speed, but has a bad bearing or other internal damage. If so, maybe the fan seems to run okay when higher speeds are commanded and greater torque is supplied, but has trouble running smoothly at lower speeds. Once again, this is all conjecture.
With the battery disconnected, can you spin the fan blades freely? Or does there seem to be any binding?
Wow, this is a strange one! I'm perplexed why the fan seems to rapidly cycle on and off.
I'm not familiar with the Diesel model at all. On other models, and likely the Diesel, there is a protective mode if the coolant temperature is high after switching off the engine. The cooling fan is commanded to run for a short period, even with the key off. I've experienced this on my '02 V6 on very hot days.
Are the Diesel turbos liquid cooled? If so, maybe it's normal for the fan to run for a short period after shutdown to help keep the turbos from getting too hot. This is pure guesswork on my part, so don't read too much into it. But maybe the fan is getting the normal command to run at low speed, but has a bad bearing or other internal damage. If so, maybe the fan seems to run okay when higher speeds are commanded and greater torque is supplied, but has trouble running smoothly at lower speeds. Once again, this is all conjecture.
With the battery disconnected, can you spin the fan blades freely? Or does there seem to be any binding?
I'm not familiar with the Diesel model at all. On other models, and likely the Diesel, there is a protective mode if the coolant temperature is high after switching off the engine. The cooling fan is commanded to run for a short period, even with the key off. I've experienced this on my '02 V6 on very hot days.
Are the Diesel turbos liquid cooled? If so, maybe it's normal for the fan to run for a short period after shutdown to help keep the turbos from getting too hot. This is pure guesswork on my part, so don't read too much into it. But maybe the fan is getting the normal command to run at low speed, but has a bad bearing or other internal damage. If so, maybe the fan seems to run okay when higher speeds are commanded and greater torque is supplied, but has trouble running smoothly at lower speeds. Once again, this is all conjecture.
With the battery disconnected, can you spin the fan blades freely? Or does there seem to be any binding?
Had to go to another city because I met with another guy who is membder of Jag club here in Slovenia. We checked the car, it was REALLY HUGE puddle of coolant and water underneeth the car. We aproximately found the problem. We also plugged the car to the tester and was shocked because it found another VIN number. I guess someone changed motor or something with Land Rover one. At least that what it said on the tester. I guess I should open another topic just about those error codes. Because it is quite some of them. As far as I checked them online is mostly connected with EGR valve, turbos, air sensors, gearbox and also lower voltage of battery etc.
On the way back home went petrol station, checked the liquid and again nice puddle underneeth the car. Went then to different mechanic. This one I personally know bwcause my parents went to all the time. He first topped off the coolant(again) and we found the real coulprit. Seems one of the owners before the guy who I bought from did crash or something because when we uncovered the part next to coolant reservour we saw that cooler/radiator was hit and someone boged it somehow back with glue. So now I am on the hunt for new radiator.
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Charlies,
Thank you for the update. I'm very glad you have found the cause of the coolant leak, and most probably the reason the cooling fan continued to run after engine shutoff.
Please, please do not drive the car while it is losing coolant. These engines do not respond well to overheating and the heads will easily warp. Also, the temperature gauge in the instrument cluster is a "dumb" device, showing the temperature is normal as long as the coolant is between about 180 and 239 degrees Fahrenheit, or 82 to 115 Centigrade. As soon as the needle moves above normal, the engine is overheating. There is little or no warning.
Cheers,
Don
Thank you for the update. I'm very glad you have found the cause of the coolant leak, and most probably the reason the cooling fan continued to run after engine shutoff.
Please, please do not drive the car while it is losing coolant. These engines do not respond well to overheating and the heads will easily warp. Also, the temperature gauge in the instrument cluster is a "dumb" device, showing the temperature is normal as long as the coolant is between about 180 and 239 degrees Fahrenheit, or 82 to 115 Centigrade. As soon as the needle moves above normal, the engine is overheating. There is little or no warning.
Cheers,
Don
Charlies,
Thank you for the update. I'm very glad you have found the cause of the coolant leak, and most probably the reason the cooling fan continued to run after engine shutoff.
Please, please do not drive the car while it is losing coolant. These engines do not respond well to overheating and the heads will easily warp. Also, the temperature gauge in the instrument cluster is a "dumb" device, showing the temperature is normal as long as the coolant is between about 180 and 239 degrees Fahrenheit, or 82 to 115 Centigrade. As soon as the needle moves above normal, the engine is overheating. There is little or no warning.
Cheers,
Don
Thank you for the update. I'm very glad you have found the cause of the coolant leak, and most probably the reason the cooling fan continued to run after engine shutoff.
Please, please do not drive the car while it is losing coolant. These engines do not respond well to overheating and the heads will easily warp. Also, the temperature gauge in the instrument cluster is a "dumb" device, showing the temperature is normal as long as the coolant is between about 180 and 239 degrees Fahrenheit, or 82 to 115 Centigrade. As soon as the needle moves above normal, the engine is overheating. There is little or no warning.
Cheers,
Don
The family mechanic sugested to put red paprika mixed with bit of water as temporal solution while we wait for replacement radiator. In morning happened again with leaking, so today I did this and so far it does the trick. No leak no nothing. Will keep updating while replacement radiator comes.
unfortunately this is the only car we have with my wife. We do not drive much in first place, once, twice a week on shorter rides(50 km or less).
The family mechanic sugested to put red paprika mixed with bit of water as temporal solution while we wait for replacement radiator. In morning happened again with leaking, so today I did this and so far it does the trick. No leak no nothing. Will keep updating while replacement radiator comes.
The family mechanic sugested to put red paprika mixed with bit of water as temporal solution while we wait for replacement radiator. In morning happened again with leaking, so today I did this and so far it does the trick. No leak no nothing. Will keep updating while replacement radiator comes.
I understand and I know the risk. But at the moment this is solution. I already found radiator. One from the man who sold me the car, has lot of Jag parce(because he has 10 more Jags) and he also found a man who has another S-type which who's engine died at only 63000 km so he is selling parts. Radiator 90 euros. So next week I will go get the radiator.
Yes forget the Paprika AND the old fashion black pepper trick.
Ancient idea and you don't want to contaminate the cooling system. So do some flushes when you get ready to refill the coolant.
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Ancient idea and you don't want to contaminate the cooling system. So do some flushes when you get ready to refill the coolant.
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