hi, I am changing the gear box sump and filter

At the back of the box, there is an electrical connection and I need to change the plastic sleeve

C2C39599

I have watched three vids on youtube, where they have changed it but they don’t show you how it done

Is there any information anywhere that I can look at

It looks like there is a cap that unscrews, but after that ???

Thanks

I think the box is a ZF6hp

 

I think joycesjag did a write-up - have a look.

 

From the workshop manual:

 

Hi knares, I have done just that not too long ago. I will probably write in more detail about it in a new thread, once I find more time, but here is the answer to your question:

Your see in the front right that white latch, which needs to be pulled down - in the picture you see it already as it is AFTER I pulled it down

You definitely do not need to remove the transmission support X-member, as it is shown in one of the videos on YT. You can just fit a long screwdriver thru the obstacles and turn with it the connector anticlockwise - or you might even just be able to reach that connector with your hand and turn it off. The thing I can't remember is, if you turn the connector off first, or if you pull the white latch first - I actually think it was connector before latch - just try that first.

With the white latch down, you just pull out the sleeve. Note that there is a "thingy" at the bottom of the sleeve, which defines it's orientation.

This is the connector with sleeve remove and again: Note that gap at the bottom, where the "thingy" from the sleeve fits in nicely, i.e. there is only one position of how to fit that sleeve.

Once, the new sleeve is pressed back in, push the white latch up again. and then you can turn the connector back on again - clockwise with a screwdriver.

And once you have done this, please let me know, if I was right about the order: Connector off first, latch down next, swap sleeves, latch back up, und turn connector back on... Cheers, Peter

 

Good write up and I found it's a bit of a struggle to seat the plug far enough in so you can push the latch up and lock it in place.
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If I remember correctly, I had to position my body under the car (which was standing elevated on 4 stands) in a certain angle so that I can get my left arm just past those obstacles to push in the sleeve in, which was actually a very easy "push" once I realized that there in only this one position of the sleeve, in which that is possible (refer to the "thingy" above). And then it is a matter to pushing up the white latch again. I very carefully hit the latch repeatedly with that part of my hand, which is between wrist and palm (there does not seem to be an English word for it - the German word is "Ballen").

 

thanks for your help guys, finished it to day
everything seems ok, cost almost seven hundred dollars
if i was doing it again, i would replace the seals on the plug as well, hope they dont leak, if they do, they can be replaced without to much trouble
thanks again

 

You must have fixed a lot on the S-Type to get a total of AU$700 !?
Which seals are you talking about? Did you now not end up swapping the sleeve seals? That will leak! And as you know, swapping the sleeve without removing the sump-pan is not possible...
But if I did not understand you correctly, and you swapped the sleeve (seals): Can you please answer my question from above? :
"And once you have done this, please let me know, if I was right about the order: Connector off first, latch down next, swap sleeves, latch back up, und turn connector back on... "

 

Plastic sump, the filter and sump are one peace, so both must be replaced

two local mobs advised to instal a steel sump as there have been problems with the plastic sumps and I thought mine was cracked as it was leaking

with the steel sump, just the filter can be changed, so cheaper next time

steel sump and filter $550 to me $495

rubber sump gasket $35 to me $27.50

sleeve $40 to me $44

oil penrite 8 litres, it took 7 $130 to me $103

total to me $669.50

the seals I said I wished I had changed are the ones on the wiring harness, where it slides in to the sleeve

yes I did it as your instructions

it was your photos that made it clear, thanks, much appreciated

 

The reason as to why my repair of the S-Type takes so long is two-fold:
1.) I restore all parts, which I hold in my hands anyway back into new or better than new and shiny condition.
2.) I research a very long time on the net to find the best parts for the best price.
My research for the transmission filter, etc., did result in the following:
I don't think, many people go for the aluminum sump P/N BPC236. WHich is why it is not that easy to find. But if you want to go that way:
https://www.britishparts.co.uk/class...p-filter-p9968
That is 115 Pounds plus postage 132 pounds, That's about AU$450. And they are fast in posting stuff.

That price is the reason why I decided to go for the plastic one, which is NOT unique to Jaguar - that exact same plastic filter sump is use for BMW, different P/N, but cheaper: I paid AU$75 for that one and fitted it to my S-Type. All gaskets and that sleeve with gaskets were included:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/363395988474

And I bought at a time when it was on special for about AU$200: 20L Nulon fully synthetic Automatic transmission fluid.
I am with ebay plus, and currently I see under this link here again a price of AU$204. PS: I just realized: With an ebay voucher I have currently, I would currently just pay AU$180 for those 20L...):
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20386706...Bk9SR6aazfH5YA

So, if 20L = AU$200, then 8L proportionally = AU$80, i.e. I paid a total of 80+75= AU$155 in parts.

Good advise from you that there seems to be another seal on the connector to the sleeve - I have to check that one out.

I assume with "oil penrite" you mean fully synthetic transmission fluid" from Penrite? It's not an oil really, it is hydraulic fluid like in power steering and brake lines.

PS2: And another important addition: When I wrote 8L, I did that only to be able to compare the price... But I did a full flush (which is a little bit more complex than just letting the fluid run out at the bottom). And I refilled a total of 14-15L.

 

Thanks again for telling me about that seal, which I overlooked: The one on the connector, which goes into the sleeve. I still had a tiny bit of a leak (after swapping sump & sleeve) and this would have been the reason. I found the seal, but I got no idea what the P/N is, but I have those green seals, which I described in thread about the coolant leaks. It turned out to be just a little bit to thick. Thus, I took a bit off with an angle grinder. And when I wanted to put it back on, the connector would not want to get back on again - reason was definitely not my seal. I also tried without seal: No dice. Anyway, I simply applied "insanity" and succeeded... --> According to Albert Einstein the very definition of insanity is to try the same thing over and over again and hope for different result... Well, it worked: After 30 minutes doing the same, the connector was back on again... And fingers crossed, it should seal now.

 

i looked on ebay but i never saw the $74 one and they are only half hour drive from me

 

Well, yes: As I wrote: You could not see the ebay-filter (which was listed there since a pretty long time), because you were looking for a Jaguar filter or looking for it by Jaguar Part-number. As I wrote: After long investigation I somehow figured of that this BMW Filter with BMW P/N is indeed my Jag-filter. I figured it out by finding somewhere in this world a seller, who sells this same filter both under BMW and Jag P/N. But if you do a ebay-check for this part close to you for suitability with Jag S-Type 2004, it will tell you that if will not fit. This ebay-parts-checker is pretty unreliable. They are nice sellers, too. I told them (after I fitted that filter to my Jag) all about it. They wanted to confirm with their supplier, if they could marked it for Jag as well... Apparently they have not changed their listing...