Hi guys
Well it dus not take long until some of the problem where back. My abs is cam back on 2 days back and traction controle defect. After the warning traction controle defect its did go to sort off safe mode it did go faster then 20. So the grage finally found a fould code that is c1234 so I change the abs sensor on left and right side so I did go for a test drive and the traction controle came back again this time it's not going to safe mode. So I could you drive as fast as I want to be. So I did go back to the grage to let it read again and he couldn't find any fould code he reset to make sure. So I start to make a test drive and the abs light was on again. So i was like oke when I did give gas and the car want to go to the 2nd gear hy did go to some sort of safe mode again the traction controle light is blinking and I couldn't give any gas. So I stopt and push the traction controle off and I could youst drive as fast as I can bud after a couple of min my parking brake, my power on my steering and a error traction controle failed came on bud I still could drive as fast as I want. And no code at all I have put a new battery in it that one is fine I have checked the breaks to look if one then is stuck there not stuck I pulled my parking break to look if there was somting weird on that noting to see I did look to the break olie lvl and that is is oke to. The olie it self's looks good to. So in it short.

- when traction controle is on the light will blink and go to a sort of safe mode.
- when traction controle is off. After a time driving 5 - 10 min display showing warning traction controle defect, parking light goes on, power in steering goes off all at the same time. And it reset ts self when restarting the engine.
What i have looked at
- battary. It looks good 12v and the other one is 12.6v
- brake olie is good lvl to.
- brake are not stuck , parking break works fine.
- I have looked to the sensor and there looking fine to.
- no fould code coldt be find any more.
-belt on the motor looks almost new.

 

It still sounds like low current issues are throwing error codes. At 12.0 volts, the car will throw codes, Which battery is in the car now? Was the voltage reading (12.6 volts) on the "good" battery taken with the "surface charge" dissipated by turning on the headlamps for a few minutes? What is charging voltage at the battery at start-up and after at least 5 minutes of running?

 

+1 on that. I highly suggest a little voltmeter thingy that plugs into the cigarette lighter. That lets you keep an eye on the system voltage while driving.

Once again you've mentioned the power steering feels heavy. I'm still leaning towards a slipping serpentine belt. The most obvious effect would be poor performance from the alternator and the power steering pump. The easiest way to confirm this is to watch the voltage while the fault is active. As smart as these cars are, they don't tell you when voltage is low until well after it is too late. If you don't want to spring for a voltmeter thingy for the lighter socket, rig up a regular handheld voltmeter and go for a test drive.

 

I have test it after driving it before driving it was 12.62v after driving fore 30 min 12.62v and with the engine running 13.80v and after 10 min still the same. I looked at the belt and the pulleys I put a strip on it and there all moving. I didnt hear any weird sound of slipping. I got a picture what showing when I drive a round 5 a 10 min.

and about that volt meter fore the lighter plug indid buy one to day i will have it tomorrow

 

So a little help so I was looking for what the lights means. So on the internet there say that the red light with the (!) In it can be beacus of a fault in the braking system like abs. And the power steering can be beacus of the traction controle has a fault. Can any one confirm this.

 

We need to know what the battery voltage is prior to start-up with the surface charge dissipated as detailed in my post above. If the voltage is low when the systems are energized, then the spurious error codes will be triggered.

The voltage readings after the car has been driven a while are helpful, but do not tell the whole story.

 

Agreed. The only reason I asked for the voltage while driving is because these symptoms are a little different. Typically the faults appear immediately after engine start, but here it only happens after a few minutes of driving.

My hunch about the slipping belt and low voltage is kind of a long shot, but is quick and easy to rule out.

 

When the serpentine belt was slipping on my car, it didn't make any noise. The only symptoms were heavy steering, reduced AC performance, and voltage a little lower than normal. My car is a 2002, which is not nearly as finicky about low voltage compared to 2003+.

Thanks for humoring me with the voltmeter. No idea if that is your situation, but I like to rule out the simple stuff first.

On a related note, please check your brake fluid level, too. That could be the cause of the red brake light on the dash.

 

A little update.
my batrry is now 12.30v. So from 12.62 to 12.30v in 1 day. Norm when I unlock the car or open the doors the inture light goes on, bud this time it doesn't. So I get feeling now somting is pulling the battary even when the engine is off. If this is true how can see what it possible can be.
About the break fuel lvl is norm is in the max I always check that one first when a light coming up.

 

Here's an excellent write-up of how to check for something draining the battery overnight:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-drain-123535/


Open the PDF in post #1 for the details. It's a slow, time-consuming process, but should find the fault if you can work through the process methodically.

Looking back, at some point recently the fault was gone, right? That was in your other thread, I think. IIRC, the fix was to fully charge the battery, but it didn't seem to last.

If so, have you tried externally charging the battery again? If the fault clears, then you can be sure the root cause was low voltage before start.

How old is your battery? If more than 3 or 4 years old, I'd be tempted to gamble on a new battery. I'm not fond of throwing parts at a problem, but in many cases it has worked. No guarantees, but it may be worth a shot. There may not be an excessive external drain running down the battery overnight. The fault could be the battery itself, not fully holding a charge. Or it could be a combination of an external drain and a marginal battery.

I'm also curious what your voltage is when the power steering feels heavy. I think there may be a connection, but won't know until you can report the voltage. Keep us posted.