I am slowly trying to get my head around these 2 S Type V6's we now have as DD's.

I understand that they have VVT on the inlet camshaft.

I have read a terrible lot in teh last 6 hours or so, and most is V8 orientated.

My question, at the moment is:

Is the V6 system hydraulically operated/driven?.

If NO, then how is it operated.

My reasons for the question:

Peering down the oil fill cap during oil changes on both today, and I note that all is NOT as clean as I would have expected. A tad gungy would be a spot on comment.

Both cars came with impeccable dealer service records, mmmm, and the "hers" is 127000kms, and "mine" is 86000kms, and both are one previous owner.

I am more than tempted to use the ATF flush sequence I use on all the other Jags, but seriously do not want to bugga something up in the VVT area.

We use this method at work for Toyota, Mazda etc, with great success, as their VVT is so gunged up they simply do not operate. Some have required removal and physical cleaning out, and that gunge is serious bad stuff, thanks to wrong oil I believe.

Neither car has any codes, as per the chart. This is simply me trying to understand the operating of this component.

Thanks as usual in advance.

 

If you are familiar with the 3.0l Mazda V6 as fitted to 2000 and on MPV or Mazda 6, then you know about the Jaguar 3.0 V6.


Variable valve timing set up is hydraulically operated.

 

Is the official Jag stuff any help? I'm thinking of such as
Technical Guide
Jaguar S-TYPE
Sports Sedan
Powertrain
Introduction
February 1999

 

All of these work essentially the same. An electrical solenoid being energized allows oil to flow to the cam advance unit, advancing the cam timing. Mercedes did this 20+ years ago on their engines using an electro-magnetic solenoid.

The key is frequent oil changes to avoid carbon building up inside the passages, causing them to stick and not work.

 

Given the chance to spend your time and money, I'd stay away from any engine flush procedure. I've seen aftermath, and in every situation, it made things worse. That gunk is better off congealed where it is, basically out of the way, as opposed to knocked loose all at once and recirculating throughout the oil system.

I'd suggest simply doing an oil change with a good quality brand of proper specs, and change the oil more frequently as the detergents in the fresh oil slowly clean up that gunk. A slow clean-up is much better than freeing everything in one fell swoop.

The only thing is you'll have to do is not rush the process as the engine slowly cleans itself up. The waiting may be the hardest part...

 

Page 19 has the info you want.

bob gauff

 

Bob,

Thanks once again.

Exactly what I was looking for.

I have tried the JTIS toooooo many times, with zero success. Obviously, I am IT dumb, so be it.

Once again, THANK YOU.

 

That is what i am doing, and I am adding some Synthetic Diesel oil with each change, and yes, it is getting cleaner.

I have this silly hesitation under some acceleration modes, and it is intermitant.

It is NOT the infamous oil seperator hose, done on both.
It is NOT the sparkers or coils, done on both.

There are NO codes on either car. Which led me to think the VVT having issues due to sludge??, or whatever some call it.

Time I have plenty of, retirement does that, except when work recalls me.

 

I'm pretty sure if the VVT actuators were gummed up internally, you'd be getting some codes. Here's a little bit of info about my limited experience with them, and the codes they gave me when running thinner oil:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=83426

In my case, the thin oil was probably bypassing the seals and not supplying enough muscle to move the actuators. If your actuators were sticking in the retracted position, I think you'd get the same codes. Without the codes, I'd suspect the VVT actuators are working just fine.

 

Bob - yep, that's the one!

The whole thing's around for download somewhere (this site's download link I think).

 

Brutal one of our top factory techs on this forum recommends using 1 quart of transmission fluid because of its high detergent level.

We have several V-8 guys who do this regularly to keep the VVT's working properly.

I also would not use any engine flush products. Stick to using ATF, it's been proven to work.
.
.
.

 

I can tell u as a dealer who also runs a repair facility that there is no way to degunk the inside of an engine unless you pull it apart and have it cleaned in a jet tank. The miracle cleaners do nothing and make me a lot of money when they clog the passages from dislodging chunks. They dissolve nothing.


Go for it. Waste your money.