My weeping transmission lines lost more than a litre of ATF from the time that passed between finding the leak and having the new lines installed. About three months if I remember correctly....

I would not ignore that leaking coolant reservoir. That could eventually cost you your engine....

 

John, I appreciate that but what would you suggest? It's been in there for about 3 years and started leaking only months after being replaced. Crap is crap. I only lose enough to run around the lip edge and then it dries out so no real lose to speak of. That's the way it was when I took it in for warranty replacement. If someone has an improved tank I'm all ears. I have a really good Norma style clamp with rolled edges (FI style) on that tiny hose too.

Maybe some silicone at the base of the nuipple will stop it. I can try ...

I've got two bottle of the Mercon so I'll see if that gives me a temporary reprieve until I can get the pan dropped. It is only 50K miles.

I need to inspect the front pads as well so after all of this only the under supercharger hose time bomb left as a big repair. I'm not sure that it's any worse then all the things I'm replacing now though. Oil hose failures are an instant killer.

My local repair guy is very good though his shop is messy and he's a bit more rough than I like for a car like this. So my Suburban goes there.

I showed him the oil cooler hoses (tranny & engine) he says that's pretty typical these days for a lot of cars. Wonderful ...
But the ones on my Suburban were leaky last year At 125K not 50K.

They use a set of brass compression 1/2" to simple hose barb type fittings and then a piece of hose and a pair of clamps when it becomes too much work to remove everything.


Enough kvetching already

Hopefully this will help others when it's their turn.

 

Here's another alternative: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...repair-197236/

 

I hope this patch fix works for you. It would not have worked for my return line because along with it weeping at the rubber-to-metal crimp, it was also weeping at the O-ring connection on the oil cooler side of the line. So in my case, brand-new lines were probably the best decision at the time. That was in late 2013 and the replaced lines continue to be weep-free today. However, they do not resolve the original design flaw - they just re-start the clock on the lifespan of the new lines. So anytime I am underneath the car (now down to perhaps twice a year under normal circumstances but more frequently than that with all the suspension refurbishment Wayne and I did in 2017), I make sure to inspect these lines as best I can....

 

i recently bought a jaguar xf supercharged with a burned tranny, my mechanic found the trans. cooling lines to be the cause of the transmission burning due to the lines sipping oil thru, it **** went unnoticed to the last owner and well tranny burned out. my mechanic charged me 240 to put lines in. but the lines are expensive so total spent about 550 for the repair. he had to take the crossmember out from then engine as well as loosening the engine mounts to be able to lift engine and have room to remove and install new lines. with the tranny, lines and oil im close to 1100 total. but worth it as im very happy with the way the car drives and runs. and yes he is a certified mechanic. lol

 

Just look at those complex pipes and the short section of hose with a cummy crimp connection.


Here's another alternative: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...repair-197236/

If the snow ever stops I have to put mine up on jackstands again and see where the leaks are this time. I went with brand new OEM oil cooler lines for this STR and what's dripping smells like engine oil. Maybe I'll get lucky and this time an oil filter failed or the pan gasket needs replacing or ... the rear main seal has dailed!

Last time around I spent a lot of time looking at how I could modify those complex pieces of aluminum pipe to incorporate much longer pieces of hose and decided it was a huge project because of all of the trial and error fitting that was likely to be involved. Looks like I may have to revisit this idea. It doesn't have to be this annoying and crappy if the cras are engineered properly in the first place. Jaguars are NOT well engineered cars. PERIOD. They're not alone though.

Those tortured cooling lines are symptom of too much equipment in a tight space. I suspect the computer then lays out all the piping.

I had to do the tranny cooler lines at the same time. Those I did manage to repair inplace and I added longer lengths of hose but probably not long enough but at this point I can simply replace the hose portion fairly easily should it fail.

I have to wonder if they'd simply put a soft barb on each end of the aluminum and used a high quality hose clamp instead of that cummy crimp that it might hold up a lot better. Even a push lock hose fitting would be better than this.

 

1/2" is smaller than 13mm. It should be a tighter fit, not looser. Plus, one of the other threads around here said that the pipes were exactly 1/2 and not metric but I cannot verify that.

 

Correct link: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...repair-197236/

 

Can someone please confirm, does the C2Z11606 transmission cooler line assembly shown above (in reply #20 by 1stJagJet) also fit on the STR models? I can't seem to find a diagram to confirm it on any of the jaguar dealer parts websites. I have a 2004 S-Type R and found the transmission lines are weeping at the crimps while in the process of replacing the radiator. I might as well replace everything as long as I have it all apart. If the PN is different I wouldn't know because I can't seem to find any reference to it, even after hours of searching. Any help would be appreciated.

Perhaps the idea of visiting an aviation hydraulic repair station (also mentioned above) might be my next option if I can't find replacement parts. Cheers.

 

In the beloved JPART I find no difference between the transmission cooler lines. All V-8's appear to be the same as nothing is broken out but merely listed as "V8" and depends on the VIN.





I do see that XR856184 has been superseded by your part number C2Z11606. So you do have the latest and I think correct part number.
Here is where they list the part number changes. Picture looks correct too?
JaguarLandRoverClassic Web Site




I put in a 2006 S-Type R and C2Z11606 it says it fits. But note I am finding what I think is an error in the listings as it comes up as a power steering hose and says it fit's cars W/O the SC? So I am confused as to exactly what is correct?
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clubairth1, Thank you very much for your reply. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who found that page in the JaguarLandRoverClassic Web Site confusing.

That said, late last night I did find a local industrial hydraulic hose repair shop that includes "transmission cooler lines repair and rebuilding" in their list of services. Once I remove the old hoses I will try going that route as it should be more cost effective. Some Jaguar parts shops are offering USED C2Z11606 hose assemblies for nearly $600! And no doubt they would just need to be refurbished in short order anyway.

I'll post again once I cross that bridge. I'm still working on the radiator. Fingers crossed! Thanks again.

 

Yes that's a better solution. I am sure you have read that the lines are difficult to replace with the engine/trans in the car. I have seen several ways around that?

One-you can bend the lines to remove the old and replace with the new. Then bend the steel lines back straight after install.
two-You can cut the steel line and add a coupling so it's now installed in two sections.
three-In this thread I saw someone who lifted the engine and transmission assembly to gain room underneath.

Tough repair anyway you do it.
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All I am finding for my leaky 2003 S-Type R transmission cooler lines are "refurbished" for $1,100. Does anybody have a suggestion for a DIY repair hose kit?

 

Try hydraulic places, they can make things.

 

It's been a while since I did this on my 2005 STR. Look for my post. It's still holding though the car was down for several years for a much bigger issue so I don't know how much use this repair has experienced. On these cars the issue IMHO is that they frequently did no leave a long enough hose section to allow for engine movement and thus the crimped connector gets unduly stressed and eventually leaks. So I eliminated a portion of the pipe at a strategic location for later service and inserted more hose with suitable connectors. A couple of people have done this. It works! But you have to be a capable DIY which I was at the time. Too old now ...

So find my thread/post. I has photos and supplies links.

 

Here you go:-
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ng-faq-141258/

 

chuckaylward3 if your up for some DIY this can be fixed pretty easy?

Take a look at this thread and focus on what Aarcuda posted with pictures. I used his method of cutting the crimps off. Replacing the rubber hose and re-crimping the hose back onto the metal lines. All done on the car from underneath without removing the cooler lines.

Cut Crimps Off

Here is one picture I stole from Aarcuda's great thread with pictures!




Note the factory pipes have an upset on the ends so don't cut the metal piping at all. That upset helps retain the hose. The crimps are sheet metal and once slit they can be "peeled" off in one piece. In that thread you can see several clamp options too.

Thanks again Aarcuda! That was a great thread!
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I posted about the same time Norri did! His thread shows that the oil cooler lines on the STR's can also be repaired this way. When I had this leak I found I could change the oil cooler hoses from under the car without too much trouble compared to those long twisted up transmission cooler lines. But replacing just the rubber sections would have been cheaper.

Here is another good thread with pictures for the STR's oil cooler lines which are built very much the same as the transmission cooler lines.
STR Oil Cooler Oil Line Leaks

You can see the upset on the end of the tubing to retain the hose.
Thanks to forum member 2004STR who posted these pictures.

First cut the crimp off.




The tubing end showing the upset. After removing the crimped rubber hose.



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I remember that method. The only issue with that is that I don't think it addresses the original cause , too short of a rubber hose for enough flex?

 

That's not why they leak. The leak because over time that mechanical crimp on a soft rubber hose starts to fail and now we get oil seeps. It rarely blows out but these small leaks cause a mess under the car. If JLR had used an adjustable clamp instead we could simply tighten the clamp and stop the seep. I use adjustable clamps and I use 2 clamps installed in opposite directions as an added guard against leaks. Then I finish it off by putting a large diameter chunk of heat shrink tubing over the clamps and the entire connection. Just another barrier (Hopefully!) against future leaks.
Be sure to slide the heat shrink tubing over the metal tubing BEFORE you make the connection!

The hose is shot and you always replace the decayed rubber hose. You can replace the rubber section with what ever length you need. I found the factory lengths to be adequate but tight. Your choice of hose too. Many upgrade the hose since your replacing them anyway. I an sure the factory rubber hoses were "built to a price" and can be improved.
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