Back again, a whole slew of codes
#1
Back again, a whole slew of codes
04 x-type 3.0 sport AWD
Running like you know what... Here are the codes
P0300 Random misfire
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire
P0303 cylinder 3 misfire
P0351 ignition coil A primary/secondary
P0353 ignition coil C primary/secondary
P1111 ? system pass? or IAT intermittent high voltage
p1313 misfire rate catalyst damage fault bank 1
p1316 misfire rate exceeds emissions
Happened pretty much after a big rain. Last time had big rain, daughter ran through standing water. The rear bank had water all around plugs/ coil boots.
I haven't looked yet, but I presume the same thing. Last time I replaced the coil/s that were in water, at the same time replacing the much needed plugs.
The problem corrected.
Today there are a lot more codes.
If anyone has had this experience, or knows what I am looking at please help!
Mike
Running like you know what... Here are the codes
P0300 Random misfire
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire
P0303 cylinder 3 misfire
P0351 ignition coil A primary/secondary
P0353 ignition coil C primary/secondary
P1111 ? system pass? or IAT intermittent high voltage
p1313 misfire rate catalyst damage fault bank 1
p1316 misfire rate exceeds emissions
Happened pretty much after a big rain. Last time had big rain, daughter ran through standing water. The rear bank had water all around plugs/ coil boots.
I haven't looked yet, but I presume the same thing. Last time I replaced the coil/s that were in water, at the same time replacing the much needed plugs.
The problem corrected.
Today there are a lot more codes.
If anyone has had this experience, or knows what I am looking at please help!
Mike
#2
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Audio, all the codes that you are seeing can be related to the water issue you talk about earlier. On a side note, the P1111 code for our cars means "all is good". So, you can ignore that code in this case.
If you are getting water into the plug wells, I would be looking at the seal of the coils and also doing an inspection of the top of the coils themselves. While this is not a Ford, our jags share a lot of commonalities and something I have noticed with Fords is that the coils will develop cracks in the tops of the coils and this will allow water to get into the coil and lead to misfires and whatnot. Easy to check. It is sounding more like you have a seal issue on the underside of the coil where the coil touches the engine block. You should get a good seal there. Otherwise, you can get water in the wells and get what you are seeing.
I would make sure that the seating surface is nice and clean to allow the coil to seal good as you are putting things back together.
If you are getting water into the plug wells, I would be looking at the seal of the coils and also doing an inspection of the top of the coils themselves. While this is not a Ford, our jags share a lot of commonalities and something I have noticed with Fords is that the coils will develop cracks in the tops of the coils and this will allow water to get into the coil and lead to misfires and whatnot. Easy to check. It is sounding more like you have a seal issue on the underside of the coil where the coil touches the engine block. You should get a good seal there. Otherwise, you can get water in the wells and get what you are seeing.
I would make sure that the seating surface is nice and clean to allow the coil to seal good as you are putting things back together.
#4
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audio, to remove the hard vacuum lines, what you want to do is to look at the place where the lines attach to the intake manifold. If you look, there is the hose going in the center and then a plastic ring on the outside of that. Hold the plastic ring down as you lift the center hose out. It should slide right out. From there, you can remove the plastic ring to make sure you don't loose it. Install is just the opposite.
As for the cylinder numbering, walk over and stand by the passenger front tire (US spec cars) and look at the motor. The cylinders on your right side are the odd numbered cylinders, the ones on your left are even numbered cylinders. The cylinders nearest you are the low numbered ones, the ones furthest away from you are the highest. So, on the right side, the cylinders are numbered 1 - 3 - 5 with 1 being the closest to you, 5 being the furthest away and on the left side (up against the firewall), the cylinders are number 2 - 4 - 6 with 2 being closest to you.
As for the cylinder numbering, walk over and stand by the passenger front tire (US spec cars) and look at the motor. The cylinders on your right side are the odd numbered cylinders, the ones on your left are even numbered cylinders. The cylinders nearest you are the low numbered ones, the ones furthest away from you are the highest. So, on the right side, the cylinders are numbered 1 - 3 - 5 with 1 being the closest to you, 5 being the furthest away and on the left side (up against the firewall), the cylinders are number 2 - 4 - 6 with 2 being closest to you.
#5
Its me audio! I had to create a whole new profile. Nothing I could do to log on.Because of the codes 0351, and 0353, do I assume the coils are bad?
Because of the 1316, Injector circuit IDM codes detected, does this mean a possible injector issue?
It really looks like around the plug wells, that it gets really hot. Its almost like valve covers are some type of composite, and they have a slight melted look.
Because of the 1316, Injector circuit IDM codes detected, does this mean a possible injector issue?
It really looks like around the plug wells, that it gets really hot. Its almost like valve covers are some type of composite, and they have a slight melted look.
#6
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Audio, what I would say is to swap coils for cylinders 3 and 5 and then clear the codes. Start the car up and see what codes you get after say a 5 mile drive. If the codes shift to P0301, P0305, P0351, and P0355, then that would confirm the coils are bad and I would then replace the coils for cylinders 1 and 5. See what you have at that point then. If the codes remain with cylinders 1 and 3, then you are looking at a wiring issue (look at the wiring for the coils between cylinders 3 and 5 for any signs of damage as this would be the most likely place for it to happen based on the codes).
OPtion 2 is to simply buy 2 new coils and toss them in. But, this may or may not fix your issue and if it doesn't fix your issue, you are not much further ahead.
I don't think you have an injector issue. From what I can tell, you are having a coil issue.
OPtion 2 is to simply buy 2 new coils and toss them in. But, this may or may not fix your issue and if it doesn't fix your issue, you are not much further ahead.
I don't think you have an injector issue. From what I can tell, you are having a coil issue.
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#8
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Audio, what I would try doing is taking a thin bladed screw driver and sliding it between the head of the bolt and the intake. This will force the insert that the bolt screws into to a new position and that might be enough to allow you to remove the bolt. Just make sure to keep inward pressure on the screw driver as you turn it. Otherwise the screw driver may slide out from under you. Then as the bolt backs out, you will need to start getting bigger screw drivers to keep pressure on the bolt as it backs out. That or once you get it up a little bit, you just need to keep upward pressure to keep the insert jammed into position to allow the bolt to back out.
Last edited by Thermo; 08-15-2014 at 08:41 AM.
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