Check engine
#1
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Check engine
I bought a 2003 X-type about 3 weeks ago with 51K miles and it runs great. This past weekend it turned cold (for the area I’m in – El Paso, TX), Saturday morning I went out and started my Jag to warm it up (temp was about 29 F). I sat there for several minutes to insure all was well, then went into the house. When I came out and got in, the check engine light was on and stayed on. We drove it to the store (about 60 miles) during which time the light stayed on. When we went back to the car to leave, when started the light was out and stayed out. Then Sunday, going to church the same thing happened. Any ideas why the light comes on in the cold morning but off when it warms up?
Jack in El Paso
PS: noticed that Jag recommends running 5W30 oil, any problems known about running a little heavier oil like 10W40. 5W-30 thins out in the summer heat here. Have ran 10W40 in all my other vehicles.
Jack in El Paso
PS: noticed that Jag recommends running 5W30 oil, any problems known about running a little heavier oil like 10W40. 5W-30 thins out in the summer heat here. Have ran 10W40 in all my other vehicles.
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Check engine
When I had the engine check light come on my 2.1 V6 Petrol, the guy who hooked up the diagnostic tool said it will be one of 3 things.
Lambda / Heated Oxegyn sensor (ccall it what you will)
Brake light switch
No Fault Found.
He put money on Lambda. Reset the fault code, light out, 5 mile test drive, light still out. I got a mile down the road and 'bling' light on. A new Lambda Sensor cured it, that was 32000 miles ago
Lambda / Heated Oxegyn sensor (ccall it what you will)
Brake light switch
No Fault Found.
He put money on Lambda. Reset the fault code, light out, 5 mile test drive, light still out. I got a mile down the road and 'bling' light on. A new Lambda Sensor cured it, that was 32000 miles ago
#3
RE: Check engine
I seem to have a similar issue. My dealer said it was a "soft code" which means when you turn the vehicle on, your computer does a self check and if all is well it turns the light out. If it isnt going into limp mode then its probably nothing serious. Just have the dealer run a diagnostics, Im having mine done next week.
Could be a sensor that feezes, or sticks when its cold??
Could be a sensor that feezes, or sticks when its cold??
#4
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Posts: n/a
RE: Check engine
Thanks for the replies, took it to my mechanic and turns out it’s running a little rich. Seems the previous owner didn’t change the air filter in the 51+K he had the car. I ordered a K&N air filter which should be in this week. That should lean it out.
How about the oil issue, I would really like to use Castrol Syntec or Syntec Blend in 10W40 or at least 10W30. I run 10W40 in all my other vehicles (Jeep, Silverado, Lumina Van, Arctic Cat 400 ATC) all over 50K miles and buy it in bulk (5 gal can).
Jack in EL Paso
How about the oil issue, I would really like to use Castrol Syntec or Syntec Blend in 10W40 or at least 10W30. I run 10W40 in all my other vehicles (Jeep, Silverado, Lumina Van, Arctic Cat 400 ATC) all over 50K miles and buy it in bulk (5 gal can).
Jack in EL Paso
#5
RE: Check engine
This is from another post, swiped from Racerx82:
Climate Considerations
Owner's manuals and service manuals will specify the acceptable oil to use at various temperatures. In warm climates, 10W30 is usually an acceptable alternative to the preferred 5W30 and may be used without measurable adverse effects. In the olden days, before multi-weight oils, it was common to have a winter oil and a summer oil. This is no longer necessary, but if you normally use 10W30 because you live in a warm climate then be sure to switch to 5W30 if you plan on using the vehicle in very cold weather.
5W30 versus 10W30
Virtually all new passenger vehicles sold in the U.S. use either 5W30 or 10W30 oil. The difference between the two is that the 5W30 flows better when cold, so if you live in a cold climate or operate your vehicle in a cold climate during the winter months, you should use 5W30 if it is the preferred oil for your vehicle. If you live in a sub-tropical climate and don't operate your vehicle in cold climates, then 10W30 is acceptable as long as the manufacturer specifies that it is permissible to use it.
Is there a disadvantage to using an oil that flows better when cold, i.e. 5W30 versus 10W30?
Sometimes, but usually not. The crux of the issue is this: the bigger the difference between the cold oil viscosity and the hot oil viscosity, the more the volume of viscosity modifiers and the less the volume of base stock. If you are good about following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval then stick with the 5W30 if that is the preferred oil for your vehicle, even if 10W30 is acceptable in warmer climates. Older cars may specify 10W30 only. This is because they need a little more viscosity when cold to keep a protective film on the cylinder walls. There have been instances where the larger amount of viscosity modifiers that are present in 5W30 have broken down due to excessive heat and have left carbon deposits on the valves, but this is extremely rare. The proper fix would be to reduce the excessive heat, but the workaround was to use an oil with less viscosity modifiers.
Why do many oil change places, even dealerships, use 10W30 instead of 5W30, even when 5W30 is preferred?
According to www.cartalk.com (see link in the references section), as well as many mechanics who have posted on usenet, 10W30 is the closest thing to a one size fits all oil. Many older vehicles need 10W30, and most newer vehicles are okay with it in warmer climates. Since many garages don't want to have multiple tanks of bulk oil they choose to carry only 10W30. The advice that Tom & Ray give is correct, 'it would not be a disaster if you used 10W30, but given a choice, go with the manufacturer's recommendation and use the 5W30.
Climate Considerations
Owner's manuals and service manuals will specify the acceptable oil to use at various temperatures. In warm climates, 10W30 is usually an acceptable alternative to the preferred 5W30 and may be used without measurable adverse effects. In the olden days, before multi-weight oils, it was common to have a winter oil and a summer oil. This is no longer necessary, but if you normally use 10W30 because you live in a warm climate then be sure to switch to 5W30 if you plan on using the vehicle in very cold weather.
5W30 versus 10W30
Virtually all new passenger vehicles sold in the U.S. use either 5W30 or 10W30 oil. The difference between the two is that the 5W30 flows better when cold, so if you live in a cold climate or operate your vehicle in a cold climate during the winter months, you should use 5W30 if it is the preferred oil for your vehicle. If you live in a sub-tropical climate and don't operate your vehicle in cold climates, then 10W30 is acceptable as long as the manufacturer specifies that it is permissible to use it.
Is there a disadvantage to using an oil that flows better when cold, i.e. 5W30 versus 10W30?
Sometimes, but usually not. The crux of the issue is this: the bigger the difference between the cold oil viscosity and the hot oil viscosity, the more the volume of viscosity modifiers and the less the volume of base stock. If you are good about following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval then stick with the 5W30 if that is the preferred oil for your vehicle, even if 10W30 is acceptable in warmer climates. Older cars may specify 10W30 only. This is because they need a little more viscosity when cold to keep a protective film on the cylinder walls. There have been instances where the larger amount of viscosity modifiers that are present in 5W30 have broken down due to excessive heat and have left carbon deposits on the valves, but this is extremely rare. The proper fix would be to reduce the excessive heat, but the workaround was to use an oil with less viscosity modifiers.
Why do many oil change places, even dealerships, use 10W30 instead of 5W30, even when 5W30 is preferred?
According to www.cartalk.com (see link in the references section), as well as many mechanics who have posted on usenet, 10W30 is the closest thing to a one size fits all oil. Many older vehicles need 10W30, and most newer vehicles are okay with it in warmer climates. Since many garages don't want to have multiple tanks of bulk oil they choose to carry only 10W30. The advice that Tom & Ray give is correct, 'it would not be a disaster if you used 10W30, but given a choice, go with the manufacturer's recommendation and use the 5W30.
#6
#7
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RE: Check engine
how does the dirty air filter make the car run ritch? there is a fuel injection computer that uses the mass air flow metre to measure the air coming into the engine and then inject the appropriate fuel.. the dirtly filter will mean less air.. but the computer should manage the mixture..
If the advice is coming from your mechanic. THat problem comes from the day of carburettors.... way way outdated.
Of course you need to change a dirty air filter. But I dont understand how that can make it run rich..
I also wonder how the mechanic can say the car was running rich? I dont think there is a code for that.. maybe he pulled the spark plug???
B
If the advice is coming from your mechanic. THat problem comes from the day of carburettors.... way way outdated.
Of course you need to change a dirty air filter. But I dont understand how that can make it run rich..
I also wonder how the mechanic can say the car was running rich? I dont think there is a code for that.. maybe he pulled the spark plug???
B
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