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I am considering Purchasing an X-Type

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Old 07-03-2013, 07:44 PM
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Default I am considering Purchasing an X-Type

Hello,

I am leaning towards the purchase of an X-type and was hoping for some feedback. Short Story: I have driven a 2002 Honda Civic HX for 11.5 years. Great car, 40 mpg, $200 in repairs over the life of the car, cheap/easy to maintain, no complaints over.

However it now has 184k miles on it, and it's going into the shop next week to get looked at for a few thing. The major thing is that it's burning oil. It could be a large repair, and at 184k miles I'm not ready to put a lot of money into it.

I'm contemplating getting a used vehicle that I could put another 40k miles on over the next 2-3 years. I'm older now, I can't afford the sport coupe I would prefer, so If I have to drive a sedan I would prefer something nicer than a corolla. I went to kbb.com to get some idea of values and came up with the following comparison at $5,000:

2005 Honda Civic 105k
$4,952 Fair

2006 Jaguar X-Type 110k
$5,058 Fair

2004 BMW 325i Coupe 130k
$5,038 Fair

2005 Cadillac DeVille 90.5k
$4,984 Fair

As you can see I adjusted the years and mileage to get the Private Party Fair value close to $5k.

I'm leaning towards the X-type.

Generic Questions:
1) Can I reasonably expect the X-type to last 150k+ miles?
2) Why does the Jag lose resale value so fast?
3) Any common problems besides the Transfer Case?
4) When to change the timing belt/water pump?
4b) Is it an interference engine?
5) Do the electrical components in the car seem reliable?

Thank you for your input!
 
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Old 07-04-2013, 06:35 AM
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I've only owned my '04 for a couple months now, but

1. If you change the oil regularly and on schedule anything should last beyond that.

2. The stigma of being identified as "part Ford",

3. Not really

4. It has a timing chain and not a belt, so replacement is not part of regular maintenance. Replace the water pump only if it starts leaking.

4b. Nope!

5. Not in my experience. I've read about issues with the power door locks.

If you want to drive a cool car, get it! Everybody drives a Honda.
 

Last edited by oldpunk; 07-04-2013 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 07-04-2013, 07:51 AM
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If you buy one with a good maintenance history you should be good. Plus, you came to the right place here. If you spend a few hours on here surfing around you will find pretty much anything you wanted to know about the car. One thing to caution you is that don't get freaked out if you see a lot of threads about codes, vacuum leaks, ABS lights, etc. People often post because they have problems. It doesn't mean it is a bad car. Might not be as maintenance free as your Honda, but they are good cars if you take care of them. Plus, with you living in Maryland you are close to the resident X-Type guru on here, Thermo. Between he and everyone else here if you have a problem it can be sorted out.

Good luck in your search and welcome to the forums!
 
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:52 AM
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I've had 2 x-types. My '03 2.5 litre had 3 transfer cases the first 3 months. The 2.5 is quite a bit weaker then then the 3.0 litre. My '07 bought as a certified used in '09 has been great. Like all Jaguars they like to be used. Many of the complains in this forum (all models) are about cars that not run. I've got 75K so far and don't plan on replacing until '15 when I can get a certified XF. Jack
 
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:36 PM
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I never had any major failures with my 03-3.0..But I was ALWAYS working on it to stay ahead of the issues that plagued this model....All I can say is good luck and hope yours will be trouble free.
 
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Old 07-04-2013, 04:19 PM
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My 03 has had it's share of minor issues, and one major one (that was $100 to fix)(remember, it's not the cost, per se)

1) throttle body, throttle position sensor has failed 3 times.
2) oxygen sensor fail
3) coil on plug fail
4) transfer case fail (installed new bearings myself for $100)
5) thermostat housing cracked (plastic)
6) Coolant tank fail (cracked plastic)
7) Water pump belt tensioner failed and shredded the tiny belt. Easy fix, about $50 for tensioner and belt.

I'm at 130,000 miles of absolute abuse. Mine's a manual, 2.5L and I love driving it. I rent cars weekly, and very, very few come close to the driving pleasure of the Jag. It just handles "right". It's responsive, has great brakes, is reasonably fast and rev's out, It's quiet, it's comfortable and the steering wheel is round (a huge pet peeve of mine)

Interestingly, most parts are available on Ebay for a fraction of the cost of the dealer.

I've used Mobil 1 since new and the engine is spotless inside and is still silent and smooth. I installed a K+N filter, and opened up the airbox. It helped a good bit.

Oh, my car eats tires. I drive hard, relentless hard.

My overall assessment. It's a good (possibly a great) car when maintained. But it is not a Camry, nor is it an appliance like a Camry.

You must also remember that I do my own work. So my expense has been very minor.
 

Last edited by cujet; 07-05-2013 at 04:42 PM.
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Old 07-05-2013, 06:02 AM
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Thank you for the replies everyone!
I am really leaning towards the X-type. As it is anytime you replace a car, it's a balance of finances. I don't want to replace the civic until it makes sense. It's going in the shop next week to figure out why it's burning oil. After that it's just figuring out how much time it has left and deciding it it's better to sell it immediately or drive it until it implodes and sell it for much less.
 
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Old 07-05-2013, 07:07 AM
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Hi 4 Jacks,
It's down to WHAT YOU WANT!
I just love the x-type, the 2.1L is a very capable car with front wheel drive which is a good road holder and some will hate you for it because in general I feel there is a culture to Jaguars and indeed other cars, some will love and admire you for it too!
I don't want any other car and I won't change, it's a Jag for me every time!
The car is also not like a Mondeo at all!
er apart from the rear struts I believe and the chassis!
There is a post I came across, which you may find interesting!

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-lover-95958/

The AWD 2.5 and the 3.0 are completely different to the rest and theres the newer models which are more economical but I personally think they are too cosmetic because of the "euro make it eco friendly brigade" tampering with decent cars!
BUT that is my choice and it's MY CAR!
You may not decide to go for the Jaguar, but I feel you would be missing out.
A well maintained AWD X-Type will run the distance and if you want more grunt the 3.0 is the one to go for, like CUJET mentioned above, I will get K & N filters fitted soon because I believe they are ACE!
I will also get pirelli P Zero tyres as well and I don't run the car hard.
am very happy with the 2.5 sport I have and I wouldn't swap it for any other brand, it's just me! Plus the guys here have given good pointers, whatever choice you make I wish you luck, however if you stick it out for the Jag, come back to say hello! It's your decision ... Good Luck! Stu
 
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Old 07-06-2013, 09:09 PM
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Thanks for the input Stuart.

So I have decided to keep an eye on Craigs List and go test drive an X Type. When actually inspecting the car is there any key items I should be on the lookout for?

Is their a way to tell what shape the transfer case is in, just be a visual inspection or a test drive?

Thanks again!
 
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Old 07-07-2013, 06:24 AM
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Just an FYI,

Around here, the X-Type goes for around $2800 for a high mileage one, to $4000 for a super clean one.

Check the "South Florida" craigslist. I've noticed that they are cheaper and more plentiful here than most other places.
 
  #11  
Old 07-08-2013, 04:52 AM
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Smile Hi 4Jacks For your info

Yes, any sourcing of any car is a risk, first off.
I actually bought mine in haste but I don't regret it as it's a good car and I know it's gonna be greater still when I have time and er MONEY to make her the Best X Type around for miles, you know a good real wax makes her look new, and she's heading for 11 years shortly.
You need to access if the car is the AWD and if so, and post 20005, check out if the transfer box has been replaced, mine was and I have the paperwork and it's not an issue, it's good.
Having driven and owned a 2005 model which was immaculate and then owned a late 2002 model, there is very little difference although the spec changed.
I have sadly realised that my 2002 model (2.5 sport) was not really looked after and I travelled to view at a great distance. I was misled and the wheels in the photos weren't the ones on the car (or they were older.)so I had to refurbish them at my cost. Most frustratingly, I found I had 3 split alloys when the refurbishers attended my car.
I was in shock as I'd driven up from Liverpool to Perth in Scotland (nearly 300 miles). That was accepted as my fault having not inspected the car more thoroughly! and having spoken to quite a few people, I happen to trust and respect in the motor business, I accept sometimes, some people don't realise there is a bad wheel or more on their car, it's not publicised but it happens all the time. I ended up paying a lot more to have the wheels welded, so it won't be long before I replace them too.
I now have the X Type up for pre mot as it has a rusted sill, a defective cv joint needing replaced and a break caliper, it's weird really all these items are on the rear left side of the car!
Now, the sill is rusty and I should have known better, but for you the buyer, it's good to have a feel and a look under the sills, actually as on most modern cars, the dirt/mud and gunk that sticks in the gaps will eventually lead to rusted sills, so that's one serious area to look at pre-sale. And I think a must is to check the sills for badly placed jacks as a lot of cars have been needlessly damaged by an inexperienced person changing a wheel or tyre.
The wheels on a jaguar are expensive too so on the test drive I would check all switches and see how powerful the headlights are, everyone seems to want to or HAS TO fiddle with the bulbs on headlights these days.
You may Just want to check the beem is good!
I would do a kick down on the automatic as you are cruising along, foot to floor and watch the needle/revs raise and break quite hard a few seconds after you are up to speed.
The breaking will find if you have steering woes and the kick down will indicate what colour smoke is eminating from the back of the car and the sound should indicate a hopefully healthy engine.
Initially on the kickdown if there is a discharge of black smoke it's a sign that the carbs have been choked up and this is quite natural, however if you feel something isn't right, you are probably right, gut instinct is good to follow nd after the kickdown the emmissions return to normal.
I also try to use a big traffic free turning area and test the brakes and turning circle. The X Type is usually released with 16 or 17 inch wheels, but there are models with 18 inch wheels but some of these in my view are too big for the car and a test of the full turning circle is a good idea.
Sadly here in Scotland they use murderously rough rock salt on the roads and check the state of any corrosion on the wheels as again they are expensive.
I've had issues with one particular X Type as the wheels were buckled badly by pot-holes, yes Scotland again, they grow here and the councils are terrible for acting against them!
Any serious wobble on a straight line needs looked at, it may not be serious again as the wheel alignment may be out.
I am tempted to try lazer alignment when I fit my new tyres as I am led to believe that is a decent way to find if anything is up.
The look, sound and feel of the car, when buying is all important to me and use your judgement and if not sure I would utilise a 2nd opinion or even a third as it's gonna be YOUR CAR!
I am dubious about seeing a car for sale (photo-graphed when wet!) But sometimes the guy has been in a hurry, but what was the hurry for?
I'll make sure the mot history is good here in the UK, that ensures the car has had minimal maintenance and the car should be sound, but you never know! You can check to see if the car has payments outstanding, hpi clear is what we look for in the Uk and the best way is a good visual, underneath too, yes I am learning and if the fit of things look good, don't be shy and lean on parts that could be loose or badly fitted!
In the bonnet the colours of the fluid containers, coolant, brake fluid, oil check and steering fluid should all look good.
Apart from garages selling cars, here in the Uk, a lot of people don't bother cleaning inside their bonnet, I do.
If I brake down or need recovery, I would like the police or inspection people to see that I look after my car.
If in the same vein, you are looking to buy private, it's generally a good sign of a car that has been well kept.
Oh and try a cd when you test the car, now this is my take on things, car people tell me "the stereo's not important" BUT BUT BUT I think it is!
Why buy a new car to find out a cd is stuck, the radio doesn't work or someone has torn out connectors and replaced them with a dodgey blue tooth or i pod connector or the speakers are naff?
it's More and more common these days to find that someone has been "messing" and sometimes these fittings can affect the electrics, the ECU and could actually be dangerous, I personally look out for these things.
I didn't do it when I first started driving, but now if it moves, I lift it, floor mats, seats, the boot carpet and liner and I take out the spare. Another idea is to listen to the car itself after testing the stereo of course
It's all worth checking, I believe. Plus swith the air-conditioning on to warm and check if there's a musty smell, if it is a bit pongy! Turn it on FULL and run it for a while, in my view the a/c pollen filters are not too expensive but it is another expense to watch out for!!
Phew, if you have read so far you are doing well 4Jacks, many of the serious motor mad techies on here and elsewhere will say I have missed loads of things to check, but I could write another 10 pages and still miss something quite standard in the realms of what to look for on a new car......
I hope this is helpful anyway?
Best regards, and Good Luck, Stu
 

Last edited by Stuart Beattie; 07-08-2013 at 05:12 AM. Reason: spelling!
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:15 AM
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Smile Hi again 4 Jacks

Just to add, this is to be looked at in conjunction with mileage, age, service and repairs, modifications.
Again, Good luck! Stu
 

Last edited by Stuart Beattie; 07-08-2013 at 05:16 AM. Reason: grammar
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Old 07-08-2013, 06:43 AM
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Cujet, I'm in Maryland, so FL is a little bit out of my range. I'm looking as far south as Virginia and as High north as South Jersey. I think prices are a bit higher here. (Or at least the asking prices, lol)

Stuart, That's a pretty thorough post. Couple questions. What is a bonnett? Do you mean the engine compartment in the front? Or the storage compartment in the rear? Also what do you mean by kickdown? Do you mean to get up to cruising speed and then manually downshift into a lower gear? (It's been a long time since I've owned an automatic transmission)

So the best thing to do on the transfer case is just to crawl under there and see if it looks newer then the other components? There is no way to feel if the AWD is not kicking in? (I've never really driven AWD before)

What happens when the TC breaks? Car doesn't run? Or FWD only?
 
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:03 PM
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For your info the bonnet is the hood, ie the engine compartment as you rightly guessed.
The transfer case/box was recalled in the UK on certain models including mine although the previous owner missed it and had to pay, I don't have access to my paperwork right now, I guess in the region of £600, I think.
Basically, as I am aware, the 2005 on models don't have the transfer case issues as they were changed and not prone to issues.
If you are to source a pre 2005 model, I would ensure the case has been changed beforehand unless this is taken into account with perhaps a discount for the sale?
Re the kickdown, it's basically known as putting the foot down to accellerate vigorously.
The 2.5 and the 3.0 litre are powerful engines and a good one will take this no problem.
For future reference the boot is what you call the hood. Re the last question that's a good one, I sadly can't answer, kudos to your questions.
I hope this helps 4Jacks?
Stu
 
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:05 PM
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I mean't to say the boot is the trunk and the hood is the bonnet.
Where's translator when you need him?
 
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:25 PM
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Hi 4Jacks, this is a post I had in mind for you, I just had to find it.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-x-type-96387/

Plus there is very useful more mechanical advice from guys like Thermo who really know their stuff.
I've never (Touch Wood) had n issue with a transfer case and if it failed, I would leave it where it was until I had sourced a resolution.
I won't lie about things I'm not up to scratch on 4Jacks.
Happy days! Stu
 
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:48 AM
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If you're serious about buying an X-Type I would suggest you look at this one:

2005 Jaguar X-Type Used Cars for Sale in Hasbrouck Heights New Jersey - NJ.com

That is the car I traded in on my '08 S-Type 4.2 in May. I owned it since 2008 and put 50K miles on it. I talked about owing it a lot on this list (search for my posts). I can provide much detail about it if you're interested.

I traded it because I always wanted an S-Type and I was lucky to find one of the last ones made.

The car is in NJ so if you're in Maryland you should be able to spend a day and go up and see it.

Let me know if you would like any other info (but as I said a talked about owing that car a lot on this list.)
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