Problem X-type 2.5 v6 2001 While driving, suddenly the engine check light came on and the on-board computer told me cruise control not available. I did the diagnosis and it showed p171, p174 and p1111. I cleared the errors and drove 200 km, without problems.
Today the problem came back, and on top of that the car stalls at 3000 rpm and it takes me a while to go beyond that, what's going on?

 

You probably have an intake air leak and running lean.(RESTRICTED PERFORMANCE)
No ides what MY you have but there were TSBs for PCV rubber hoses that deteriorated and collapsed as well as the valve itself.

IMT 'O'rings are a common leak.

 

Air leak on one of the "big 3"

 

In the first minutes when I started the engine, the car does not exceed 3000 rpm! Then no problem, always for the loss of air? thanks

which is the big 3?

 

It don’t exceed 3000 rpm because it’s in restricted power mode. Fix the codes. And you will fly above 3000

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-p0174-239618/

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1616103581

is this the check valve?
do you only need one?
thanks

 

No, that's the PCV.

 

https://www.partsgeek.com/z3ymxbh-ja...4aAltPEALw_wcB

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/18404_...AaAtOaEALw_wcB

The O ring Pic has the part number for you to search by. The other 2, I've included websites that have the part number number for you to search by.

 

So should I replace these 3 components?
And should I change the PCV valve or not?
thanks
the spare O-Ring found, thanks

 

You should check those 3 areas to see if you have an air leak. SEARCH this forum for how this is accomplished (many, many posts on procedure). Then if 1 (or more) of those "big 3" have an air leak problem, replace.
Never just throw parts at a Jag problem more times than not it will hiss, and bite and scratch you.

 

i must to change o-ring and that?

 

Not saying this is your fix, but it was my fix. I had all the same issues that you are having. I went through and replaced everything the big 3, all the O2 sensors full tuneup, everything. I didn't really mind as with 18 years and 110k miles needed to be done anyway. None of the aforementioned repairs did anything.

Below is the 90 second test you should try.

The end of May and the night before my first of three 1200 plus mile trips, i unplugged the evap elec connection and removed the vacuum line heading back to the tank. You have to do both as i did the vacuum hose first, but still had the bucking issues around 3k rpm. I then removed the elec connection and all is well. That immediately through a check engine code, but the car ran flawless and at one point in the trip i averaged 29 mpg. Since that May trip, I've been back and forth from FL to NH with no problems at all, and the car runs so smooth after a few 600 mile days at highway speed.

Now that the car is repositioned up here I would like to fix it. My question is when i throw a vacuum pump on the hose that runs to the back of the car it does not hold vacuum. Is that wrong, should it hold vacuum? Are there any known issues i should look for to cure it?

Hope this helps.
Good luck either way.

 

Is it normal to hear a suction-like air noise in those areas?

 

No, thus easiest test to see if you have a vacuum leak is take a can of starter fluid, start car, spray wherever you suspect an air leak, wherever the car raises in R.P.M.'s, there's your problem.

 

It may not change RPM because the PCM can react very quickly, but it WILL alter the STFTs so use OBD to watch them.