Rough Idle and Engine Running Rich 2001 3L Jag X-Type
#1
Rough Idle and Engine Running Rich 2001 3L Jag X-Type
I noticed weeks ago my car had a rough idle when the engine was still warming up and that it was running rich I told ny mechanic and he asked if there was any warning messages and I said no so he didnt take it too seriously, 2 weeks ago after not switching on the engine for two days I got a "cruise not available" warning message. I took it into the mechanic he inspected it and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced and the spark plugs. He replaced them and said the engine was now running well. I picked up my car and the next morning when I turned it on I had the sane problem with my rough idle and my car is averaging 16.5L/100ks since I got it back.
The car has done over 190,000km but was always serviced on time by the previous owner who supplied me with a logbook with full service history when I purchased in Feburary this year. Any ideas on what else the issue might be?
The car has done over 190,000km but was always serviced on time by the previous owner who supplied me with a logbook with full service history when I purchased in Feburary this year. Any ideas on what else the issue might be?
#2
#3
You need to have the codes read again and while they are doing that we need to see the fuel trims at idle and at 2500 RPM. I suspect the Short Term Fuel Trims and the Long Term Fuel Trims are going to show excess fueling to overcome a vacuum leak.
In the mean time there are a few things you can visually check.
1. The brake booster line from the back of the intake manifold to the brake booster. Is the line firmly attached at the manifold? Is the little football shaped check valve in the middle of the line cracked or worn?
2. The PCV valve in the front cam cover has a hose that runs to the manifold. Is it a smooth hose or ribbbed? Remove it and check the underside for cracks or splits.
3. Unplug the MAF sensor and clean the connections. Remove the MAF and using MAF cleaner only spray clean the MAF sensor.
Give those a try and get back to us with any codes and fuel trim readings.
In the mean time there are a few things you can visually check.
1. The brake booster line from the back of the intake manifold to the brake booster. Is the line firmly attached at the manifold? Is the little football shaped check valve in the middle of the line cracked or worn?
2. The PCV valve in the front cam cover has a hose that runs to the manifold. Is it a smooth hose or ribbbed? Remove it and check the underside for cracks or splits.
3. Unplug the MAF sensor and clean the connections. Remove the MAF and using MAF cleaner only spray clean the MAF sensor.
Give those a try and get back to us with any codes and fuel trim readings.
#4
Im having basically the exact same issues at the moment with my x type. Car will rpm hunt at idle and has a rough undertone to it, fuel trims are leading to a vacuum leak that is affecting the car mostly at idle. I have lower intake manifold gaskets, imt o rings, and a throttle body gasket on the way. The car runs very well while driving or anything not at idle. Just waiting on parts as well as the weather to clear up, then I'm going to start digging around.
Most annoying part of all of this is that I'm getting right around 14-15 mpg.
Ill stay involved in this post so hopefully sanna and I can get this all sorted.
Thanks, Andrew
Most annoying part of all of this is that I'm getting right around 14-15 mpg.
Ill stay involved in this post so hopefully sanna and I can get this all sorted.
Thanks, Andrew
Last edited by AndrewG; 05-18-2018 at 08:22 PM.
#5
Im having basically the exact same issues at the moment with my x type. Car will rpm hunt at idle and has a rough undertone to it, fuel trims are leading to a vacuum leak that is affecting the car mostly at idle. I have lower intake manifold gaskets, imt o rings, and a throttle body gasket on the way. The car runs very well while driving or anything not at idle. Just waiting on parts as well as the weather to clear up, then I'm going to start digging around.
Most annoying part of all of this is that I'm getting right around 14-15 mpg.
Ill stay involved in this post so hopefully sanna and I can get this all sorted.
Thanks, Andrew
Most annoying part of all of this is that I'm getting right around 14-15 mpg.
Ill stay involved in this post so hopefully sanna and I can get this all sorted.
Thanks, Andrew
I recently had my brake booster replace
#6
These x types are a dream to drive I agree! Like I said next clear day I'm going to replace seals and check lines. Ill keep you posted so we can hopefully both go back to fully enjoying our cars
#7
Trending Topics
#8
In the last two months I've had to replace the break booster, rear calipers, spark plugs, driver door latch and the oxygen sensor.
#9
Long story short my friends needed to use my car for light tonight. So I had to run my engine for about 45 minutes without the car actually moving just so they could use the lights from my highbeams. When I got in the car again I noticed white smoke coming out from under the left side of bonnet, it was dark and cold so I couldn't really check it out there. I'm gonna pop the hood and check it out tomorrow but I'm already freaking out a lot about it. Any chance that it's nothing
#11
I put some water in the coolant reserve and ran my engine to try and find the leak and that's where it appears to have originated from. Is there a chance my mechanic forgot to tighten something when fitting the spark plugs and Oxygen sensor.
If so how mad should I be considering he charges me 180/hr for labour, because not gonna lie I'm livid right now
#12
#13
#15
On Thursday morning I got in my car and the engine wouldn't turn on, after getting a jumpstart it did. That night I went to pick up a friend I switched off my engine while waiting outside tried to turn it on and the engine wouldn't start just heard that ticking and a clieck. I closed my eyes prayed to god, put my foot on the break really hard and tried again and it worked. Having that problem everytime I switch on the car, where it ticks and clicks but the engine doesnt start the first time. This morning the time on the clock had even changed. Any ideas on what the issue could be?
it is still rough idling when it first starts up. It appears to have gotten even worse.
it is still rough idling when it first starts up. It appears to have gotten even worse.
#17
I haven't had the battery tested yet but it only wouldnt turn on until it got a jump start once, since then it turns on without one just rarely the forst time. A few weeks ago I suspected an electrical issue because I had the the globes for the headlights changed and the left one wouldn't turn on.
#18
This morning I had the same difficulty trying to get the engine started. After the second time a message appeared saying "gearbox fault". The rough idling when the engine is warming up is getting worse.
I've had the car for 3 months and I've spent close to 3000 at my mechanic already. My car has spent more time with my mechanic than it has with me this last month.
I've had the car for 3 months and I've spent close to 3000 at my mechanic already. My car has spent more time with my mechanic than it has with me this last month.
#19
This morning I had the same difficulty trying to get the engine started. After the second time a message appeared saying "gearbox fault". The rough idling when the engine is warming up is getting worse.
I've had the car for 3 months and I've spent close to 3000 at my mechanic already. My car has spent more time with my mechanic than it has with me this last month.
I've had the car for 3 months and I've spent close to 3000 at my mechanic already. My car has spent more time with my mechanic than it has with me this last month.