I have a 2002 X-type 2.5 with the 10 speaker alpine system. I have sound coming from one tweeter and that is all. It's the one in the left side rear door. I have recently removed the sub-woofer box and would appreciate any information I could get on how to check it. I am waiting on new clips for the door panels to arrive before I try to remove them to check the other speakers. Pretty sure the door woofers are blown being that this sounds like a common problem, but how do you blow a tweeter? Anyone else had this problem? Any information would be helpful. Thank you, David S.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...roblems-29584/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...orking-119760/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...speakers-8947/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...orking-100173/

Just a few found with "search" option.....just saying.......

 

Thanks Dell, I had already read most of them and unless I read over it, I didn't find an answer to the tweeter question. I guess when people replaced their speakers they got the 6" speakers with tweeters built in and that's why it's not mentioned. Appreciate the help!

 

Tweeters are simply smaller versions of the woofers. Apply to much power or distortion, they will fail.
As for testing speakers, two things you can do. The easier is to get to the plug powering the speakers (back of the radio) and then disconnect it. From here, you can use a multimeter to see if the speaker is 4 ohm or a very high resistance. If they are not in the 4 to 8 ohm range, most likely bad.
Option 2 is to create a "white noise" cd (files are available on rhe internet). You can then play this file and do a voltage measurement at each speaker. If you see voltage (the voltage you see will be relative to the volume the radio is dialed to), the amp is good and if you are getting no sound, proves the speaker bad.
If you need more help, let me know. I have a few other tricks for you.

 

Thanks Thermo, as soon as the weather breaks I am going to do the ohm test. Pretty sure they are blown, seems common. Don't happen to know what specs are necessary from the speakers to keep the system from blowing them do you? Thanks for the info.

 

the tweeters have a capacitor in series and then connected in parallel with the speaker, except the front two that have a feed from the amp.

if you unplug the bigger plug from the amp unit in the rear of the car you will see it has a number of twisted pairs, each pair is a feed to a speaker/tweeter. using a 1.5v "aa" battery connect to each pair in turn you should hear a click from the speaker for that pair. the amps do go faulty, one I had only played sound through the front nearside tweeter.

 

Dave, you need to keep in mind some numbers and what they mean. There are 4 numbers that you need to know when buying speakers. The biggest one and the most obvious is the resistance of the speakers. Most automotive speakers are 4 ohm. if you look on the back of the speakers, you should see a number with a funny looking O (like it has feet). That is the symbol for ohm, or resistance. You want to buy a speaker with the same resistance or possibly a higher number (ie, more resistance). This will prevent you from blowing the amp because of pulling too much current.

The second number you need to worry about is also written on most speakers. This is peak power. This is normally a number followed by "W". This is important as it tells you how much power can be sent to the speaker for a short burst (think snare drum hit). For the X-Type, I want to say that the amps will peak out at about 45 watts per speaker.

The third number is the RMS power rating. To me, this is the more important power number as this refers to the constant power (think on the scale of may seconds or minutes). This is the speakers ability to remove heat (which if not removed, causes the speaker to blow). You will not normally see this number written except on the box of a new speaker. For me, RMS power is what I base everything on as this is the long term noise that your system can make.

The last number is sensitivity. This is another important number to me as this relates how well that the speaker can convert electrical power to noise volume. This is normally expressed as dB/watt. The higher the number, the more sound the speaker can make for a given power input. If you are replacing a lot of speakers, you want to make sure that all the speakers have a sensitivity rating that is pretty close to each other. Worst case, put the speakers with the higher sensitivity up front and the ones with hte lower in the rear. This will help keep the sound in front of you as you are listening to it.

If you need to know more, let me know. I used to design car stereos for fun.

 

Thanks Thermo, I finally got my replacement door panel clips in, so I popped the panels off of the two front doors. Done the ohm test on the speakers and as presumed, they are blown. They were all infinite except for one tweeter, it was at 4.7 ohms. Thanks for the info on replacement specs, guess its time to go shopping.