From what posts I've read, our cars take 6.5" speakers, but how deep can they be?
#1
10-14-2010, 01:11 AM
From what posts I've read, our cars take 6.5" speakers, but how deep can they be?
Some 6.5" speakers can have really large magnets. I'm going to get high efficient ones, so they probably wouldn't be that large, but just in case. What is the maximum depth we have for the speaker area? The posts didn't say what size tweeters to replace the stock ones.
also, from a picture I just saw of the stock speaker, will a normal 6.5" go right in, or will I need an adapter that uses only 3 screws?
Polk Audio seems to have the highest sensitivity and lowest range for bass. I'm just thinking what will work best with no amp.
________
Infant Depakote
also, from a picture I just saw of the stock speaker, will a normal 6.5" go right in, or will I need an adapter that uses only 3 screws?
Polk Audio seems to have the highest sensitivity and lowest range for bass. I'm just thinking what will work best with no amp.
________
Infant Depakote
Last edited by jeffrimerman; 04-20-2011 at 09:10 AM.
#2
10-16-2010, 05:24 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: London , England
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The original speakers have adaptors which space them away from the door panels, would suggest you do the same, i bought mine from eBay, because i did not have the time to make them myself, but any good audio shop should be able to make them for you, or try eBay. The eBay ones i got were o.k. but proper mdf one would be acoustically better. You will need to have at least an inch in depth, with those you can use almost any normal speaker ...most come with between 5cm to 7cm mounting depth. They should fit, with a bit of room to spare. Good luck.
#4
10-16-2010, 12:05 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: McKinney (North Dallas), TX
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I replaced my 4 door speakers last week. The max depth without spacers is 4"...there's lots of room back there.
The stock ones are mounted with only 3 screws and the pattern of most replacements are 4 screws, so I had to drill...no big deal.
I bought 6.5" Polk's from Best Buy http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Polk+Aud...aker&cp=1&lp=5
As a straight replacement, they sounded pretty good...better than stock. I then added a 2 channel amp (2X100) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Power+400.html and WOW...they sound incredible. I mounted the AMP in the trunk, tapped into the front door main speaker wires (not the tweeter feed), used a line converter, RCA's to the AMP, then to the speakers.
I added some cheap (but still better than stock) Sony 6.5" speakers in the rear doors simply for fill, and I set the stereo to the "Front" mode. http://www.target.com/Sony-XSR1643-6...n&frombrowse=0
Probably the best speaker swap I've done in any of the car's I've owned, and all for less than $250!
The stock ones are mounted with only 3 screws and the pattern of most replacements are 4 screws, so I had to drill...no big deal.
I bought 6.5" Polk's from Best Buy http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Polk+Aud...aker&cp=1&lp=5
As a straight replacement, they sounded pretty good...better than stock. I then added a 2 channel amp (2X100) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Power+400.html and WOW...they sound incredible. I mounted the AMP in the trunk, tapped into the front door main speaker wires (not the tweeter feed), used a line converter, RCA's to the AMP, then to the speakers.
I added some cheap (but still better than stock) Sony 6.5" speakers in the rear doors simply for fill, and I set the stereo to the "Front" mode. http://www.target.com/Sony-XSR1643-6...n&frombrowse=0
Probably the best speaker swap I've done in any of the car's I've owned, and all for less than $250!
#5
10-17-2010, 06:58 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: London , England
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did not explain myself properly. Sorry. The spacer should be about an inch. Then you can add almost any normal speaker with ease. I decided not to drill into my door panels. Like above. It's just a personal choice. If i decide to take off the door panels again, i would add some sound deading to the panel. At higher volumes the can sometimes buzz.
Word of warning be very careful with removing the door panels, the plastic brackets get fragile with age. Try as i might even with a trimming tool, managed to break most of mine, had to glue them back. A job that takes some time.
Word of warning be very careful with removing the door panels, the plastic brackets get fragile with age. Try as i might even with a trimming tool, managed to break most of mine, had to glue them back. A job that takes some time.
#6
10-17-2010, 10:29 AM
Senior Member
Ok, thanks guys. Replacing the speakers is definitely on my to do list - all four of the door speakers are dead in my X-Type. But this weekend, I am replacing the headlight assemblies and converting to HID's, so speakers will have to wait. At least now, I know what kind of speakers to look for on eBay.
#7
10-17-2010, 03:59 PM
I ordered some MB Quarts off of ebay for really cheap. I wanted the Polks, but I order 1 pair to try first and see if they are good. I bought the ones that I think are only 40w rms per side since I'm not using an amp to start. I was thinking since there is a cd changer in the trunk I should be able to tap into power back there. I wonder if I can use the cd changer's other wires and convert them to rca behind the deck and where the wire comes out in the trunk.
I also noticed most speakers seem to have multiple drill holes so we shouldn't have to drill the speaker ring area for most speakers.
________
CUMSHOT XXX
I also noticed most speakers seem to have multiple drill holes so we shouldn't have to drill the speaker ring area for most speakers.
________
CUMSHOT XXX
Last edited by jeffrimerman; 04-20-2011 at 09:10 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
10-17-2010, 04:34 PM
As a straight replacement, they sounded pretty good...better than stock. I then added a 2 channel amp (2X100) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Power+400.html and WOW...they sound incredible. I mounted the AMP in the trunk, tapped into the front door main speaker wires (not the tweeter feed), used a line converter, RCA's to the AMP, then to the speakers.
Hey TX_Jag,
What do you mean by tapped into the front door main speaker wires? Those wires run from the HU to the front doors. I'm wondering how that helps the amp in the trunk. Or you mean since you used the stock radio, ok I think I get what you mean. I have a JVC HU with rca outputs. How did you run the wire to the trunk? I imagine under the carpet then under the rear seat to the trunk.
________
ZX14 VS HAYABUSA
Hey TX_Jag,
What do you mean by tapped into the front door main speaker wires? Those wires run from the HU to the front doors. I'm wondering how that helps the amp in the trunk. Or you mean since you used the stock radio, ok I think I get what you mean. I have a JVC HU with rca outputs. How did you run the wire to the trunk? I imagine under the carpet then under the rear seat to the trunk.
________
ZX14 VS HAYABUSA
Last edited by jeffrimerman; 04-20-2011 at 09:11 AM.
#9
10-17-2010, 07:55 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: McKinney (North Dallas), TX
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My X is an '06 with the premium audio (or what Jag thinks is premium).
The feed from the HU runs to a factory AMP in the trunk. I cut the "in" wires for both front doors (Left - Blue/Green, Right - Brown/Yellow) and ran them into a line level converter to RCA's.
I ran the RCA's to the new AMP, then ran the door speakers and spliced into the "out" side of the factory AMP, thus going directly to the door speakers.
I don't have the CD changer, so being that the AMP I used isn't ridiculously over powered, I used the contant and switched power from the harness that would power the CD changer if it was there, and grounded directly to the car.
The harness for the CD changer can handle the 20 AMPs needed for the Jensen AMP.
Hope this helps!!
The feed from the HU runs to a factory AMP in the trunk. I cut the "in" wires for both front doors (Left - Blue/Green, Right - Brown/Yellow) and ran them into a line level converter to RCA's.
I ran the RCA's to the new AMP, then ran the door speakers and spliced into the "out" side of the factory AMP, thus going directly to the door speakers.
I don't have the CD changer, so being that the AMP I used isn't ridiculously over powered, I used the contant and switched power from the harness that would power the CD changer if it was there, and grounded directly to the car.
The harness for the CD changer can handle the 20 AMPs needed for the Jensen AMP.
Hope this helps!!
#11
11-01-2010, 04:23 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Three of the four woofers in my 2002 X-type with premium sound went out and I didn't have a billion dollars to spend having them replaced. Here's what I ended up doing:
Purchased two sets of Infinity 6030cs component speakers which are 2 ohm speakers. The speakers are four-hole mount, but included was an adapter which allowed installation to the three-hole mount in the Jag without drilling. Clearance was not a problem. Also included was a pigtail so you could connect the speaker to the original wiring. I chose to clip off the original connector and solder together. I found a diagram of the polarity somewhere on the web.
Of course several of the door trim fasteners busted off, but I got replacements from www.clipsandfasteners.com product code A20363 which were identical to the originals. They are a Ford part.
I ended up throwing the Infinity tweeters and crossovers away since the original tweets were fine. Speakers were $115 per pair from Amazon, clips were about $15.
Purchased two sets of Infinity 6030cs component speakers which are 2 ohm speakers. The speakers are four-hole mount, but included was an adapter which allowed installation to the three-hole mount in the Jag without drilling. Clearance was not a problem. Also included was a pigtail so you could connect the speaker to the original wiring. I chose to clip off the original connector and solder together. I found a diagram of the polarity somewhere on the web.
Of course several of the door trim fasteners busted off, but I got replacements from www.clipsandfasteners.com product code A20363 which were identical to the originals. They are a Ford part.
I ended up throwing the Infinity tweeters and crossovers away since the original tweets were fine. Speakers were $115 per pair from Amazon, clips were about $15.
#12
11-02-2010, 03:05 PM
So like I said before I changed the front door speakers to MB Quarts and my HU to a JVC with ipod control and built in HD radio. My biggest improvement seemed to be after changing rear door speakers. I used Pioneer 3 way 6.5 inch. They are only 35w rms, but they have a much fuller sound than even the MB Quarts. I think since they are actually a woofer mid and tweeter versus just a mid and tweeter. If I had to do all over I would probably put pioneers in the front doors unless I end up getting an amp.
________
VAPORIZER INFO
________
VAPORIZER INFO
Last edited by jeffrimerman; 04-20-2011 at 09:15 AM.
#13
11-03-2010, 01:17 PM
Veteran Member
I replaced my 4 door speakers last week. The max depth without spacers is 4"...there's lots of room back there.
The stock ones are mounted with only 3 screws and the pattern of most replacements are 4 screws, so I had to drill...no big deal.
I bought 6.5" Polk's from Best Buy http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Polk+Aud...aker&cp=1&lp=5
As a straight replacement, they sounded pretty good...better than stock. I then added a 2 channel amp (2X100) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Power+400.html and WOW...they sound incredible. I mounted the AMP in the trunk, tapped into the front door main speaker wires (not the tweeter feed), used a line converter, RCA's to the AMP, then to the speakers.
I added some cheap (but still better than stock) Sony 6.5" speakers in the rear doors simply for fill, and I set the stereo to the "Front" mode. http://www.target.com/Sony-XSR1643-6...n&frombrowse=0
Probably the best speaker swap I've done in any of the car's I've owned, and all for less than $250!
The stock ones are mounted with only 3 screws and the pattern of most replacements are 4 screws, so I had to drill...no big deal.
I bought 6.5" Polk's from Best Buy http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Polk+Aud...aker&cp=1&lp=5
As a straight replacement, they sounded pretty good...better than stock. I then added a 2 channel amp (2X100) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Power+400.html and WOW...they sound incredible. I mounted the AMP in the trunk, tapped into the front door main speaker wires (not the tweeter feed), used a line converter, RCA's to the AMP, then to the speakers.
I added some cheap (but still better than stock) Sony 6.5" speakers in the rear doors simply for fill, and I set the stereo to the "Front" mode. http://www.target.com/Sony-XSR1643-6...n&frombrowse=0
Probably the best speaker swap I've done in any of the car's I've owned, and all for less than $250!
Is the factory amp still powering the sub and the tweeters or did you just bypass them? Were the Polk coaxial?
#14
11-03-2010, 01:21 PM
I wonder if there is room under the passenger seat to put a small 4 channel amp. Then I can easily run rca wire to the amp from my jvc hu then connect right back into the 4 sets of door speakers. I can probably run wire to the trunk too. That will be when I have a lot of free time.
________
LovelyWendie
________
LovelyWendie
Last edited by jeffrimerman; 04-20-2011 at 09:15 AM.
#15
11-03-2010, 05:04 PM
Veteran Member
I wonder if there is room under the passenger seat to put a small 4 channel amp. Then I can easily run rca wire to the amp from my jvc hu then connect right back into the 4 sets of door speakers. I can probably run wire to the trunk too. That will be when I have a lot of free time.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BrentGardner
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
27
Today 10:44 PM
1964Daimler
MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler
2
09-02-2015 11:41 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)