I have had my car at the dealer for a week. I unhooked the batter for 30 minutes to possibly reset my A/C not blowing cold air. I had checked all the fuses and relays I thought would be related to the A/C. After reconnecting the negative cable, the headlights turned on and it seemed like the ignition was on. I reached in and pushed the start/stop button and it shut off. After reconnecting the plug on the compressor and trying to push the start/stop button to start the car, I saw smart key not found on the display. I tried as much as I could find and nothing worked so I loaded it on a trailer and took it to dealer an hour and a half away. They told me the KVM and BCM were not communicating and wanted to start with KVM (could have next day) and then if that didn't fix it then a new BCM was needed. However, no new BCMs are available in North America. They told me today they tried a couple other things and it needs a new BCM. Once in Dubai and something else in Europe. They told me a used BCM couldn't be programmed. Can anyone provide some insight, guidance, etc.? The car seems bricked. I called a module programmer, I think, and they told me dealer needed to program it which dealer said they wouldn't. I feel stuck other than calling a salvage yard and seeing what they'd give me so they can part it out.

How much could an airbag be worth, an engine (strong running) with 141k miles, a tranny, etc.? The car is clean and have had no problems the four years I've owned it. No creaks, rattles, etc. A great car except I can't turn it on.

Someone please help?!?!?!

 

Some info here...

 

The jag dealer will not be of big help, unless you want them to replace both (costly) modules.
There are different approaches however, onotole might be able to help you, but you will need sdd
Check this thread out:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...nstall-228301/

I was able to reprogram a used module for my 2013, but that always requires at least one working module with the VIN still correctly stored.

Chris

 

Will you tell me where you got your cable and SDD? I've seen the ones that are about $600 and some knock offs for as little as $50. Also, was there anything special you had to look for in finding a used BCM?

 

I use one of these to program my ECUs.

VXDiag on Ebay

It needs an older laptop and hard to get working but does work in the end.

 

I use the JLR VCI from diagnostic associates together with the latest SSD version from Index of /265935/idscentral. Thats the official Jag site I believe, and that all runs on Windows 7. It supposedly works also on Windows 10, but I did not try that yet. The link includes a set up manual for Windows 7 / 10.
You need a topix independent Operator login which allows allows you to buy SDD time by the hour, day, week, month or year. Its costly, and please don't mix SSD time with topix time which can be purchased separately and allows to access ecat and work shop manuals only.

To reprogram modules you will also need a low ripple power supply as otherwise your battery might go flat during the process. Regular battery chargers might not work because of the electric noise (ripple) they put on the car's communication network disturbing the communication with your diagnose cable.

The VCI is not cheap but it can handle all my Jags, I believe its good up to MY2015. I tried the VXDiag as well but as said by kasanbrit its tricky to work with and it does not work on older cats, plus the cracked software that comes with it requires Windows XP. The same goes for the Mangoose (=Chinese knockoff Mongoose cables). Yes, those can be run from VMplayer, but that adds just another layer of uncertainty.

Some people managed to reprogram modules with Chinese Copies, I never tried. I had some issues with both Mangoose from a British supplier and VXdiag directly from the Chinese supplier. I used these manily to diagnose, but even that was clumsy and stopped working completely at some point. The customer support for both is weak to say the least. They will not read your questions and just send you the manuals they have already posted on their websites. If you insist they will tell you that it is normal that a 2year old cable stops working and just to get a new one.
Some more reading can be found here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...rchase-209798/ especially post #7.

In your situation where there is not much to loose I'd try with a complete chinese set (software & cable & programming license for ~200$) in combination with a fully charged battery. Make sure you ask the cable supplier what you intend to do prior to the purchase. If you intend to use this longer or on other JLR cars, go for a professional solution.

What you need most though is lots of time, and willingness to learn new stuff

Your replacement BCM must have identical part numbers. It will probably work with a module that differs in the last two digits, given its a newer version number (i.e. yours is DX23-14D628-AC, and the new one is DX23-14D628-BG)

Chris

 

Couple of comments. I don't pay for anything to access SDD, instructions came with my device. I don't have an expensive power supply so I connect a running vehicle with jumper cables to keep the voltage maintained during reprogramming.

 

Thats a great idea with the truck!
So you can program modules and access engineering mode without getting online? I mean, yes basic diagnostics and some of service functions are free to use, but programming modules usually requires to download config files. Or am I missing something?

Chris

 

This is really good information and thanks to everyone for taking the time to respond. Before all this happened, I had been looking to by a 2014 with only 53k miles and selling mine with 141k miles for around $10k. Now, I am feeling a little burned by Jaguar and the quality of engineering, design, production, etc. It is forums like this with quality people who make ownership a bit more tolerable because the dealer is only going to do things under the parameters their forced to follow.

I fell in love with this model the minute I pulled out of the dealership.

I hope to hear from kansanbrit if the files can be downloaded for free or if subscription is necessary.

Thanks again and maybe someone can put some confidence back into me about owning another one.

 

Is there a way to check if the CJB and AJB were replaced under prior ownership? My 2015 XFR-S just came out of storage and the passenger side windows and power-locks are not functioning. All I have done is check a few fuses and they look fine. So I need to start some more diagnostics, I am un-equipped for this type of tech though, so might have to outsource this one.

 

The dealer does have a record of all the repairs that were done while at a Jaguar dealer but won't contain repairs done elsewhere. Not sure how you can get it? If I buy a car at a Jaguar dealer I make them print the entire service record out as part of the sale.

Follow up on the Junction box TSB posted above as these cars have complex fuse boxes and contain a lot more than just fuses and relays as the older cars did. I also think this is where your problem is.

These junction boxes (I still call them fuse boxes) are VERY expensive and I would consider shopping for a used one as they are not a wear item. You will find plenty on EBay and there is a chance they will be bad too.

Post back if you can how you got it fixed. Also unhooking the battery will do nothing for your AC that is a hail mary pass that many do to try and get things to reinitialize. As you have found out doing that is NOT without added risk!
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Have you tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery to do a hard reset?

 

JAG dealer wanted to replace both modules for around A$4000 when i stupidly disconnected the battery & lost function of central locking & folding mirrors. which i told them that ain't going to happen. A called an JAG independent workshop who suggested the hard reset. I didn't do it because of my mechanical ignorance & seeing all the wiring associated with the batteries scared me off.
Yesterday, i took it to the same independent to do an oil/filter change & at the same time he hooked up the diagnostic machine from "Autologic" and it cleared the errors & reset the system. Everything is working normal now all for the cost of $90 for that job. The mechanic also mentioned that he has the local JAG dealer send cars to him to use the Autologic tool as their diagnostic machine doesn't always detect or reset issues. Hope you get your issue sorted

 

I caved and had dealer replace kvm and that didn't work. They had to order a bcm bc at the time none avail. Chip shortages. Also said some kind of testing with a new vendor and 100 were going to be available in a week. Seemed like they did me a favor and elevated it soni would be in the 100. Got it and fixed it. Then they wanted to diagnose AC so I asked what process was bc I was pretty sure it was compressor after not seeing clutch engage. They said 120 for diagnosis and they perform a purge and charge of freon. I said it was blowing cold just fine and went out so prob not low on freon or a leak. Said it is their procedure. I said I'd pick it up. Got new compressor from rockauto and a drier and had an independent install bc I didn't want to lay on concrete and do it and then have to have someone charge system. Tough lesson learned.

 

My new to me 15 won't lock the 4 doors but locks gas door and trunk it seems. How would I find a shop with autologic? Hate to call every shop and ask them that. Not many who know anything about Jaguar where I'm located.

 

Sit inside. Manually lock and unlock drivers door and see if all the other doors lock. (Watch the silver tab). Do the same with passenger door. You'll prob find one of the doors fails to lock. That's your faulty actuator.

 

Follow up on BritCars suggestion. It's usually a door actuator problem. But watch those silver tabs. They tell the tale!
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I tried locking driver's door and I hear clicking but no locks move. Same thing trying passenger side. It is hard to tell for sure but it doesn't seem like I hear a click on driver's door. Seems to behave same when using buttons on dash.

 

Strange. Sounds like the system is jamming. Have you tried moving the silver tab on all four doors a few times to see if one of them is sticking. Then suggest you get inside the car with them all unlocked and see if the lock button locks them. If not then lock one and try again. And again with one more locked to see if you can see which one is sticking. If that doesn't work then try same with unlocking

Have you pulled the codes to see if there is a logged error code?

 

I tried to push close & pull open the locks from the inside & found that they all acted independent. In the end they were all pushed close. When i locked the car with the FOB i would get the locking noise from the doors & could hear the petrol cap mechanism locking as well as the boot. Then approx. 10 seconds would be the alarm beep twice, no folding of mirrors
The centre console red light would flash normally & if i opened a door with the fob key more than a metre away the alarm would go off. ( I turned it off when i pressed the unlock on the FOB) The independant initially thought as mentioned a faulty door actuator could be the reason, but after hooking up the Diagnostic machine cleared and reset....everything is as expected now.
The autologic machine seems to be quite a big investment by a garage to make. I was fortunate that when i spoke to another specialist about this issue, they recommended me to the specialist with this diagnostic tool.... good fortune on my behalf

Good luck in your search