Here is the how to for changing the rear brake pads and rotors with screw in calipers. Please comment to improve

jaghelp.com: How to change the rear brake pads and rotors on your Jaguar XF

 

Thanks for the post. It is very timely since my 2012 XF needs the rear brake pads replaced, but the dealer wants to replace the rotors as well. The car has 24k on it and while I am not afraid to replace the rotors, the dealer wants $1,000 to do the entire job. That is a price that would make me go to a non-Jaguar shop (Goodyear, etc).

Can you tell me if it makes sense to replace the rotors as well? I think my dealer is trying to take advantage price wise.

 

Thanks for great post Jaguar Tech!
Two questions:

What about the wear sensor? any comments on how-to on that?
Also, how to know if rotors 'really' need to be replaced? and how long typically rear rotors last (2-3 pad changes?....)

 

Not all cars have a wear sensor, this one didn't. But a great tip is to remove the sensor as you feed the new one in. For example, remove from pad, unclip at first point, clip the new one, unclip at second point, clip the new one. That way you get it routed properly.

 

Of the top of my head the rotors need to be replaced when they reach a certain thickness.

For regular brakes (not high performance)

Front disc, when they are new they are 30 mm and they need to be replaced when they reach 28 mm.

Rear disc, when they are new they are 20 mm and they need to be replaced when they reach 18 mm.

That is the correct way of doing it. Practically I would say 2 sets of pads per rotor, some people may go 3 but I say 2 to be safe. You also have a disclaimer: you may get a vibration, the engineers say change it when they reach the minimum thickness.

 

I'm getting set to do my first brake change on my XF, I have read all of the posts on how to change rear brake pad and would like to know what direction do i turn the the caliper pistons when I'm pushing them back in. Do I turn both sided CLOCKWISE or do you turn them towards the front as I have seen both referenced in different posts.

 

Lach , both pistons turn clockwise .

And I would disregard all that nonsense about resetting the handbrake .

Cheers ,

 

All rotors have a minimum thickness dimension written on them. If your rotors meet this dimension or better, they are suitable to re-enter service for at least one more set of pads.

It is illegal in many places to reinstall a rotor that is below this dimension.

 

You can disconnect the battery for a few minutes. When reconnecting you will be prompt to pull the electronic parking brake which will reset it. You don't need a specialty tool to do it. All the windows stops will need to be adjusted so that the auto-up function works again.

 

I've skimmed through the link once or twice.

There's no mention of the correct torque for any of the bolts.

There's no mention of replacing the brake fluid removed from the master cylinder.

 

On second glance, I cannot find anything suggesting that the Motul brake fluid linked to meets Jaguar specs. At a minimum, it is definitely NOT the correct DOT 4 spec.

 

What about pulling the parking brake fuse? Is the re-calibration timeout really that long? I tried pulling it for 30 seconds and apparently that wasn't long enough.

 

I have been taught that when replacing pads on an ABS equipped car, when you retract the pistons, the bleeder should be open. Water settles and this helps remove it. BTW, this is a good idea for all cars.

Don't forget to top off the master.

 

I'm a bit surprised if it isn't Super DOT 4 fluid.

 

Seems it's neither.

The owner's manual says:

"Top up the brake fluid with Shell DOT
ESL brake fluid. If unavailable, use a
low viscosity brake fluid that meets ISO
4925 class 6 specification. Only fluid of
this type and standard may be used."

The recommended Motul fluid does not meet this spec.

 

I changed the pads/rotors on my '09 XF last fall....just stumbled on this discussion.


I got really tired of the brake dust the OE pads were creating. I could wash the car, drive around the block, and the front wheels would already be covered with dust. So, I decided that ceramic pads would be a better alternative. I ordered new rotors, because when changing pad composition, you should really have a clean surface to work with. The alternative is to have the rotors turned, but not too many shops have the proper equipment/qualified personnel to do that anymore. SO, new rotors (Beck-Arnely replacements) it was.


Since my rear pads were already squealing, after only 24,000 miles, I started with them. The caliper pistons retract in a CLOCKWISE fashion, both sides. The pads were pretty well gone, but the rotors weren't all that bad. I suppose, in retrospect, I could have simply gotten a new set of metallic pads, and simply "pad slapped" it, but as previously mentioned, I was going to ceramic pads.


After pulling the front wheels, I was shocked to see how much pad was left. I then REALLY began to question my decision to switch to the ceramic pads, as the front pads/rotors looked like they could have lasted a LOT longer. However, since I had already done the rears, and the fronts are FAR more easily swapped out, I pressed on, and swapped the pads/rotors.


I also flushed out the brake fluid at this time, but it wasn't the first time that I had done this. I usually do this every spring, when I take the snow tires off. I've been using Valvoline DOT 3/4 fluid in this car since 2011.

 

That falls well below Jag specs.

 

Interesting..............I've been using this fluid in the "family fleet" for about 12-14 years. It seems to work well.

 

Check your owners manual for the correct spec. No Jag has used ordinary DOT 3 or 4 for more than twenty years.

 

I wouldn't give it a second thought....If you are having no issues with the type of fluid you've been using, As long as no warranty remains on the cars, then who gives a ****?.. keep doing with what works..