Hi everyone,

I started my car on Friday last week and the rpms went really high. They normally start at 1100 and then go down to 800-900 after about a min. This time they went to about 2000 and kept increasing, I panicked and I shut down the car. I started it again after about a minute and it did the same, so I put it in reverse and the rpms settled down to their usual value of 800-900. 10 mins into the drive, the check engine light came on, so I drove to the nearest Autozone and got a code off of their reader. It came out with a primary code of P2189 and two secondary codes of P2187 and U (I didn't know there were primary and secondary codes either). Reading up more on this, it looks like it could be a PVC Valve cover cap. I called the dealership in town to get an appointment and they told me that the latest available one is on the 20th of this month. I drove my car yesterday about 2 miles to go to the track and back and it was the same experience in terms of high rpms at startup and the ride being normal later on, with a "hiccup" a minute into the drive. I also noticed that the range changed from 135 miles to 127 miles when I just drove around 2 miles. My question is, can I keep driving the car or should I not use it at all and it was stupid of me to drive it yesterday? Also, should I trust another place to look at it instead of waiting for the dealership? I'm very skeptical of other shops looking at my car and trying to repair it based on my previous experiences with them, so I rather not do it but if this is something that needs to be looked at right away, I can call around and check (I know I'm a few days late already). Any help in this regard is appreciated. My car is a 2013 Jaguar XF with a supercharger.


Thank you in advance!

 

They're lean codes so best to go hunting for an air into vacuum leak.

Should be safe to drive but beware the higher revs at low/no speed which could catch you out I guess.

May be doing cat. conv. damage at low/no speed, probably only gradual.

You could look at idle fuel trims to get a feel for how much the car is trying to cope / how bad the leak is - but a tiny (to a human) leak can be huge to the car.

 

I had this same issue and it was the PCV valve cover diaphragm. See my post here.
I did drive the car for a bit before having the job done and no real damage took place. It's not a difficult job per se but it's very tight in there so I had a local shop do it and it was merely an hour's worth of labor ($100) plus the part which was about $30. You don't need a Jag dealer to do this particular job.

 

Thank you for replying! I was traveling for work and so I couldn't reply back. I'll mention about looking for air into the vacuum leak when I take my car to the shop.

By catch you out were you referring to the car stalling out or did you mean something else?

Also, could you also explain a little bit about doing cat. converter damage? I searched for it online but all I was getting was posts related to cat converter damage.

I ordered an OBD scanner that plugs into the car and that you can read off of on your phone and it should be arriving tomorrow. I can look at the idle fuel trims once it arrives tomorrow and post about it.

 

Thank you for replying! I was traveling for work and so I couldn't reply back.

Thank you for attaching the post! That was the one I had initially looked at before posting that pointed me towards the PCV valve cover. Thank you for posting about that in great detail!

That's good to know that you drove the car before you got the work done and there was no damage to it. I haven't worked on cars at all except for replacing a window regulator so I'm not comfortable looking into this myself as I might damage something while trying to fix this. My main reason to not take my car to other shops is that most of them haven't worked on Jags before and there is a higher chance of them breaking something while fixing this. I've had a lot of issues with other shops before that I just decided to take my car to a dealership from now on. It might be an easy one for them to do this job, so I'll call some shops and see what they say.

 

With higher revs it may take off more than it used to do.

If lean, to save severe engine damage it puts extra fuel in. That tends to damage the cats - but they're cheaper than the engine...

 

Really sounds like my experience earlier this year, I would check the PVC cover, mine was on the 2014 3.0SC which only has one PVC vs the 5.0 which has two PVCs. I did a small tutorial in this post if it helps.
high revs/ lean bank 1&2 - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

Drove for a few weeks, some times had to shut off because rpms really started to run away but found once it warmed up, there was no issues until the motor cooled.

Sorry JagV8, I know you had to suffer through that post before

Kevin

 

No apologies needed!

 

Oh okay, that makes sense.

That doesn't sound good at all. Hopefully there's no damage. I'll take my car in sooner than later. I got my OBD scanner, hooked it up to my car and recorded the fuel trims like you suggested. I did it when the rpms had settled down and the car was idling. I'm attaching it with this post. Is this really bad?

 

Thank you for replying! I did see this post as well and I thought it was very helpful! I'm assuming mine is the same issue after I read your post and sjhesketh's post. I mentioned this to the dealership too. Mine is doing the same thing with the rpms, where the rpms go really high until the car warms up. I just did it now too when I was getting my fuel trims and it went to 4000 and kept going up. I shut it down after that. I'm going to make some calls to some indy shops and see if they can take a look at this before Friday (I have an appointment with the dealership that day). Thank you for further confirming that it's most likely the PVC cover!