How Many Miles to Clear CEL History?
I ask because in this state, an inspection is required annually and I had a P 0174 code. Fixed it with smoke test and replaced cracked connectors and pipes. Final smoke test showed no leakage. Now, more than 200 miles with no code, I am thinking I should be ready for an inspection with includes an emissions test.
What is the mileage minimum to clear a code and provide a clean bill of history? And apologies for asking a question that has been answered in the past. Somewhere I've read 150 miles? Or was it 200?
What is the mileage minimum to clear a code and provide a clean bill of history? And apologies for asking a question that has been answered in the past. Somewhere I've read 150 miles? Or was it 200?
Use your code reader to look for P1111, which is emission ready or P1000, not ready. Here is a drive cycle pdf:
Drive Cycle.pdf
Drive Cycle.pdf
Thanks for that drive cycle link RJ. That first step I’m guessing doesn’t necessarily mean it must be below freezing in order for the test to start. I think they’re just saying that the ECT and ambient temperature has to be within 6*C of each other at first startup.
Len, as suggested by RJ, it must readout P1111. If whatever scanner you have just says “no codes found”, it’s entirely possible that P1000 (tests incomplete) exists without actually being displayed. I’ve stumbled upon that with different scanners so make absolutely sure it reads out P1111 and you should be good to go. I’m emphasizing this only because I don’t want you to waste your time going there waiting in line just to find out there’s a P1000 code and to return at a later time to do it all again.
Len, as suggested by RJ, it must readout P1111. If whatever scanner you have just says “no codes found”, it’s entirely possible that P1000 (tests incomplete) exists without actually being displayed. I’ve stumbled upon that with different scanners so make absolutely sure it reads out P1111 and you should be good to go. I’m emphasizing this only because I don’t want you to waste your time going there waiting in line just to find out there’s a P1000 code and to return at a later time to do it all again.
So under "Pending Codes" a code reader showed P 1000 $11. only.
Not sure what the $11 means.
Under Stored Codes Nothing Found.
No P1111 showed.
Car is running well been driven 200 plus miles since work was done to eliminate p 0174.
What does this suggest?
Thanks.
Not sure what the $11 means.
Under Stored Codes Nothing Found.
No P1111 showed.
Car is running well been driven 200 plus miles since work was done to eliminate p 0174.
What does this suggest?
Thanks.
If the P1000 is displayed, it means the drive cycles haven’t completed. I’m in a state where there’s no emissions testing so I can’t comment on how to get it to pass sooner other than the link RJ provided for the drive cycles. I don’t know what the $11 is either but just ignore that.
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So I should run through the drive cycles on the road -- no scanner attached
Sorry. Ive never done this before.but I will if need be! I dont want to get rejected and sent away.
Thanks,
Sorry. Ive never done this before.but I will if need be! I dont want to get rejected and sent away.
Thanks,
$11 is the address of the PCM (aka ECM).
The best way to clear a code such as P0174 is a fix and do not do an OBD clear as the code will self-clear if the fault is fixed. This way leaves all the OBD monitors OK (so P1111).
You can read the status of each OBD monitor and see which are unhappy then try to guess/figure out why.
The best way to clear a code such as P0174 is a fix and do not do an OBD clear as the code will self-clear if the fault is fixed. This way leaves all the OBD monitors OK (so P1111).
You can read the status of each OBD monitor and see which are unhappy then try to guess/figure out why.
You can perform a drive cycle, but takes time to complete. There are some variables between make, model and year,
however you can check your owner's manual for additional information and specifics.
There seems to be 10 general steps to performing a basic drive cycle These are::
1. Clear all OBD II error codes with your scanner. The drive cycle (on some cars) cannot begin until this step is completed.
2. Ensure your fuel tank is somewhere between 30% and 70% full.
3. Check the quality of your battery and alternator. Jump starting your vehicle is not an option if you want to perform a true drive cycle.
4. Let your vehicle rest for eight hours. (overnight is good) Do not put the key in the ignition or unlock the car doors during this time.
5. Start your car, put it in the park or neutral, and let it idle for two or three minutes.
6. Turn on your headlights, heater, and defrosters for at least two minutes.
7. Drive to where you can safely reach 25 mph. Make a slow, full stop at each stop sign or stoplight. Increase your speed slowly and
steadily to 35 mph and then 45 mph.
8. Find a freeway ramp and accelerate normally to merge with other drivers. Increase your speed to 55 mph or 60 mph. Activate
the cruise control and maintain that speed for at least five miles.
9. Find a decently sized exit ramp and cruise to the end of it, allowing your vehicle to naturally decline in speed. You can use your
brake to stop at the intersection, of course. .
10. Return home or to your inspection station repeating step number seven. Upon arrival, put your vehicle into park and let it idle
for one to two minutes.
You can then perform an OBD II scan and determine if your vehicle shows as repaired and ready to pass an emissions test. Keep in
mind that a basic drive cycle should basically reflect a typical day of driving. At this point, the engine's computer will run a series of
tests to make sure everything is operating as it should.
however you can check your owner's manual for additional information and specifics.
There seems to be 10 general steps to performing a basic drive cycle These are::
1. Clear all OBD II error codes with your scanner. The drive cycle (on some cars) cannot begin until this step is completed.
2. Ensure your fuel tank is somewhere between 30% and 70% full.
3. Check the quality of your battery and alternator. Jump starting your vehicle is not an option if you want to perform a true drive cycle.
4. Let your vehicle rest for eight hours. (overnight is good) Do not put the key in the ignition or unlock the car doors during this time.
5. Start your car, put it in the park or neutral, and let it idle for two or three minutes.
6. Turn on your headlights, heater, and defrosters for at least two minutes.
7. Drive to where you can safely reach 25 mph. Make a slow, full stop at each stop sign or stoplight. Increase your speed slowly and
steadily to 35 mph and then 45 mph.
8. Find a freeway ramp and accelerate normally to merge with other drivers. Increase your speed to 55 mph or 60 mph. Activate
the cruise control and maintain that speed for at least five miles.
9. Find a decently sized exit ramp and cruise to the end of it, allowing your vehicle to naturally decline in speed. You can use your
brake to stop at the intersection, of course. .
10. Return home or to your inspection station repeating step number seven. Upon arrival, put your vehicle into park and let it idle
for one to two minutes.
You can then perform an OBD II scan and determine if your vehicle shows as repaired and ready to pass an emissions test. Keep in
mind that a basic drive cycle should basically reflect a typical day of driving. At this point, the engine's computer will run a series of
tests to make sure everything is operating as it should.
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