I am about to remove my supercharger on a 3.0 V6 in order to swap the plastic Y-pipe that just started leaking, While I am there, I am planning to replace the isolator coupler and change the supercharger oil. I've read many reviews here that those who swapped the coupler for a solid/silicone version (ZZPerformance, Eaton or any other brand), they developed a characteristic supercharger rattle shortly after the swap. So, should I replace it with the same design as the original, the one with a spring? Mine is relatively quiet, but with 111K miles, I think it's time to change it. What should I do? I'd hate to swap it just to have a rattle develop while there's none today. Thanks much!

 

If it aint broke, don’t fix it 👍🏻

 

Your choice but if no noise at 111K miles you have done well!
Mine stated clunking at less than 30K miles and at 65K miles it's still clunking. Just have not got around to changing it out. The spring loaded coupler has been improved some too. I have a factory snout assembly. I will just change the entire snout when I do swap it out.
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I think the recommended coupling is an Eaton, EAT-361506. Be careful of counterfeit knock-offs. There was an Eaton spring loaded version, but not recommended and no longer available.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12537909232...Bk9SR-jI9af_Yw

 

I stand corrected. EAT-361506-JLR is for 2016 and newer. Verify on the Eaton website for your application

 

If your interested in the Eaton solid couplers they make a number of them and I find it confusing as to exactly which one to use?
Look at:
Superchargers Online

They have a number of Eaton solid couplers and I think if your going to use the solid version get the Eaton one. They designed and built the blower.
But so many part numbers!
I have looked at;
EAT-308850
EAT-361506
EAT-85914
EAT-360145
EAT-360148
The descriptions are a bit confusing to. But I have not called them either so I would call before ordering anything.
Currently I have the EAT-361506 for my 2014 XJR BUT I think I need instead EAT-85914. Have not got around to changing the coupler and yes I do have the shut down clunk noise. I ordered mine from a different supplier before I found out about SC Online.
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Also change your PCV diaphragm while you have the supercharger off with an OEM one. The knockoffs don't last long. It's so easy to change with the supercharger off vs on.

 

Thanks guys, appreciate the advice. Part of me wants to stay with the improved (metal clip) but OE coupler. Not sure which way to go yet.

 

heres a video help

 

Good video on couplers
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...ZAxFhdS1qK1a9f

 

Quick update on my coupler replacement (I am the OP). I decided to go with the OEM design. While there was some noticeable play in the SC turbine, the original coupler was still intact and I did not see any indentation or damage done to either the shaft or the dowels. The new coupler removed the slack and there was no play in the bearings, so I left the snout as is. I replaced the oil in the SC (it was still fairly clean, but it stinks like you wouldn't believe). The whole assembly is quieter now and perhaps it's in my head, but I feel like the car is more responsive now when I hit the throttle. Overall, not a very difficult job, but watching a couple of YouTube videos was crucial. Also, I still hear the clunk upon turning the engine off, but it doesn't bother me much and I am not entirely sure it's related to the coupler at all. Best of luck to all who undertake a similar project.

 

I think the “engine off” clunk is just a part of the AJ engines. Mine did that little clunk the very first shut off after changing it.

Usually a failed coupler damages the super charger shaft. Nice yours didn’t. At 88,000 or so mine was toast and my shaft had some rings worn into it. Couldn’t get a new snout quick so chucked the coupler in and called it a day. LOL.

As far as the Eaton Couplers, I bought both when I did my car because I wasn’t exactly sure. In my hands they were identical. Does anyone happen to know what that difference is?

 

My recommendation for anyone changing your coupler
also change the snout, it goes out of balance
Just for longevity, the snout goes for a $125

 

Very interesting that you guys still have a clunk on shutdown even with after replacing the coupler?
Beware if replacing the entire snout because it comes in electric and vacuum versions as JLR went to the electric SC bypass I "think" in 2014. While they will both bolt on fine the bypass setup needs to match the car.

If you post what those Eaton part numbers are we might be able to see what's different. I have a number of Eaton part numbers that I posted up thread.
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Mine does not have the clunk, I used ZZP original, I think it's been around 5-6 years now
with new snout and coupler, just enjoying reliability