XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 2003 - 2009

wheel shimmy - worse as it warms up

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Old 04-15-2014, 08:58 PM
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Default wheel shimmy - worse as it warms up

I think I know the answer to this, but just thought I would check .
It is a 2004 XJ8
When I bought it, it had worn tires on it but rode as smooth as can be. The big problem was when I was braking it shimmied like crazy - so more than likely a warped rotor.
So I ordered new rotors and ceramic pads and while I was waiting for them to get here, I took it in and put on 4 new tires.
I was sooo torn on the tires as I wanted summer tires but thought I had better get a pair of all season 1st. As I did(do) not plan on them being my warm weather tire, after going back and forth a million times I "cheaped" out and just went with the Kuhmo LX Platinum as they got good reviews for a cheap tire.
Ordered them online and they delivered them to the local shop who installed them.
The shop did NOT have a Hunter tire balancer with road force balancing.
Got the car back and it developed a real bad shimmy between around 43-55 mph.
In the mean time I got in my new rotors so hoping that would fix the problem, I installed them - it did not help, if anything it seems more noticeable - but the braking shimmy is gone.
Took it back to the shop and they balanced the tires again and said it was off a bit, but now fine.
No, it's not.
I still have the shimmy and it seems to get worse after I drive it a few miles and the tires warm up.
I am thinking it might be more noticeable to me after putting on the new rotors since they are taken out of the equation so it highlights the problem ?
I was going to swap a front and rear tire, still am going to, but it is sort of a pain since there isn't a lot of places to put the jack stand since my jack is there.
So, I am thinking swap a tire and see if it gets better/worse. While it is up in the air, check the bearings by pulling the tires back and forth, then if all is well there, find a shop that can do the road force balance ?
Too nice a car not to drive smooth as silk at all speeds.
thanks for any info
 
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Old 04-16-2014, 01:18 PM
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I had something similar and found it was the rear discs, not the fronts, because when the dealer swapped the rears out, (in 2011), due to discs on the wear limits, the braking vibration disappeared.

However, check everything before shelling out the dollars !
 
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:07 PM
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I had a pretty bad steering wheel shake at almost any speed on my X358

I had the wheels balanced perfect but the issue remained....

I was made aware that my wheels are slightly buckled / out of round......going in for a colour change and to resolve that particular issue this Friday.

The tyres all seemed fine, in great condition and the brakes have recently been done all round.

I turned my attention to the suspension, and after several checks it seemed that the from banana arm bushes and shocker bushes were worn ( not an MOT failure, but worn all the same at 62k )

The rear wishbone bushes and shocker bushes were also worn, so I opted to replace everything all round, she's now 100% better with barely any shimmy / steering wheel shake any more.

You don't say what mileage you're at, but an 04 I'd have to guess its up there, perhaps 80k - 100k+?

Have you checked the suspension?

It may be something to consider checking, but be sure as it can rack up quite a bill unless you're doing some of it through an Indy or by yourself.

Good luck and hope to hear.....
 
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Old 04-18-2014, 10:28 AM
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thanks for the info. JimC64 - You nailed the mileage, I have around 88k. I am a backyard mechanic on the mechanical end but as soon as you get into the electronics I hit the shop.
Have not had time to get to it yet but am hoping to in the next few days.
 
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Old 04-18-2014, 01:23 PM
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I would guess thats perhaps at least part of your issue then for sure.......do your checks and see for yourself.

It can be quite big money to do all these items, but most of it is in labour.

If you can do it yourself, avoid buying the complete banana arm etc and go for replacement bushes if you can, much much cheaper.

They can be had from SNG Barratt I believe and other usual sources.
 
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Old 04-21-2014, 03:11 PM
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thank you for the info Jim - much appreciated.
I used to enjoy working on cars etc but as I aged, I started enjoying less and less, BUT, as I was raising a family at the time, I wasn't really driving cars I really enjoyed as much. While I obviously hope it does not need much, I won't mind working on this one as I am now a pretty big jag fan.
 
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Old 04-21-2014, 05:26 PM
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Before you tear things apart, might I suggest you in-turn mount your spare at each corner? It should take only a few miles to see if there is any difference. This will either identify the errant tire or push you closer to a bushing issue.


Just thinking out loud.
 
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Old 04-21-2014, 11:17 PM
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Thanks for the info
 
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Old 04-25-2014, 05:57 AM
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I have vibration issues in colder weather if my 2004 XJR has not been driven in a few days, but after getting driving for awhile the vibration does go away. Tire pressures may be a big issue here and I would be start with using the pressures stated on the gas filler door for the tire size used on the Jag.

RyeJag
 
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Old 04-25-2014, 06:25 AM
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Hey Rye, that vibration you feel when first starting out after the car has sat is most likely flat spotting of the tires. They go back into round in just a few miles.
 
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Old 04-29-2014, 09:31 PM
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I've fought a problem like this for a long time . To make a long story short after replacing EVERTHING I found a caliper hanging! Dragging enough to warm the disc in turn caused the beast to shake from front to rear! Jack up a tire spin it and see if you have excessive drag. Hope this helps
 
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Old 04-30-2014, 05:33 PM
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well, I have not had time to get to it yet but will hopefully get started on it next week (I have to go out of state), but was wondering if this might narrow it down ....

If the car has been sitting for a while (few hours to overnight), it does not have the shimmy until it "warms" up.
I live about 4 miles from town and the road going into town is a nice to drive(read that as has some great curves in it old state route and I normally drive around 55-60 into town.
Car has been sitting overnight and I jump in and drive into town - there is basically no shimmy, car rides and handles great.
Once in town I am driving around 35 or so , so there is no shimmy.
Going home, once I hit the S.R., road and hit 50, it then starts to shimmy pretty bad between say 48-60.
Personally, having zero experience with something like this, it leads me to believe it is a tire problem - the tires warm up and it shimmys(shimmies ? )
So, I think maybe I should follow RCSnyder's plan 1st and rotate the tires to see if there is any change ?
The problem is we do not really have any good shops around here. The place I went to is probably known as the best place.
I am thinking I need to find a good shop (Jaguar dealer) in Murfreesboro or Nashville (about 1 - 1 1/2 hours away) who can actually check to see if the tires are okay (round).

I was thinking about trying to check myself, somehow mounting something at the top level of the tire and spinning the tire to see if it is the same distance all the way around. Problem there I think is I am only checking the diameter...

Think I am headed in the right direction ?
 

Last edited by donberry; 04-30-2014 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:19 AM
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Don, jags are very sensitive. After trying everything else I changed the brake hoses .Still had the problem of shaking through the steering wheel at the speed you describe. Finally I found that the Front brake caliper was sticking slightly very slightly. The farther you drive the car the worst the shake will get at those speeds because the caliper is dragging the rotor causing it to heat up and drag against the brake pads .which will cause a shaking problem. It can also warp your new disc. You can visually check a wheel and tire by spinning when it's on the tire balancer. If you can find someone with a road force balancer to check the tire that's the best way. By the way, the caliper hoses look fine but the insides had collapsed restricting the flow of fluid not releasing the caliper. Hope this helps!
 
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