First off, I want to introduce myself. I'm new to register to the forums, but have been visiting them very frequently for the past 5 months or so. This is my 1995 XJ6 (long time dream car) that I purchased many months ago non-running. My name is Michael, and my location is Norfolk, VA in God's beautiful USA.

Back story.. previous owner was selling it as is for 2k under the claim that it "just needed a fuel pump. Tank already removed." I figured that should be easy enough... went and saw the car. Realized it was in way worse condition than he had claimed. Took off with the car on the back of a tow truck for $900. Bought a new fuel pump, and upon replacing it, realized the PO didn't include the sending unit, any of the fuel lines, hell not even a gas cap or evap ring. Took a month to source all these parts and figure out how this maze goes together inside the tank. Many failures later, I finally got it all put together and the tank installed. No fuel past the injectors (no signal)and no signal to the tach upon cranking. Also no power to the fuel pump unless I jump the relay. Replaced and checked and fixed everything I could to no avail. Months of research go by (whenever I can... I work 13 hour shifts overnight. Time is slim) and I finally decide to pull my ecm and check the connectors. That's where we are now...

On to the point of the post..
I pulled my ECM and am confronted with a few concerns. Pin #18 on the ecm is corroded and snapped off into the connector (go figure... pin 18 is responsible for 12v injector supply). Also the date on the ECM shows 16/01/06. Strange, no? Considering the car is a 95. Ecu is 11 years newer than the car.



I figure at this point my only option is to replace the ECM. Searching ebay, i find this one.

my concern... the part number is different, but the year and model are correct. Will this ECM work with my car? Also it's established that the pin 18 issue should resolve my injector's lack of pulse. Does this tie in to the fuel pump and lack of tach signal issue? (I've replaced the crank sensor for the issue with the tach and there was no change). On the issue of the connector... does anyone have any advice on pulling that snapped pin out without damaging the connector itself? Any advice and help on getting this sucker running would be amazing. Thank you all so much in advance.

 

That plug is a really nasty situation. Definitely hose it down with electronics cleaner to try and break down the corrosion. Not sure how aggressive you can get with the chemicals before you start damaging plastics or coatings in there.

 

AFAIK the ECM should be fine. I think the only difference between part no.s (as long as it's for 4.0 NA) is Emissions for different regions, so the engine should run fine.

Some things to consider

1. ECM's can be programmed for O2 sensors in 2 ways but there is no way of telling which way around you have, or what the replacement has. It's an easy solution if you get one that's the opposite of yours (the car will run badly and STFT will be miles out and opposite on each bank). You just swap the connections for the rear O2 sensors.

2. If the socket for the connectors is so badly corroded, I'd expect the plug to be the same so maybe consider replacing that and splicing the cables. That approach get's over your broken pin also.

3. Corrosion like that is caused by water ingress. You will need to find and fix where the water is coming from, or at least provide some protection to the new ECM/Connectors or you will be back at square one soon.

 

The injectors have power " sitting " on them from the right large # 5 ECU control relay

This power does not go through the ECU to the injector but the ECU has 6 timed ground wires to the injectors to open them

Pic coming

There is a secret control fuse on the fuel pump relay

This fuse had blown as it is shared with the power to the OBD 2 port ,, bent pins in the port

There are 2 relays to place your fingers on to feel them click to power the ECU

# 9 small right engine bay fuse box

# 5 large right engine bay

Your fine example of Jaguar is the same color as M ' Lady Penelope as mine is the prettiest Jaguar on the whole block , just ask her

You can swap out the chrome side mirrors off of a X300 or later model X308 as well as the headlight silvering dishes

Your ECU does not have the TSB done by no sticker label as such

 

The ECU case side connectors are available

 

Pin Black 18 is................................

The controlling ground by te ECU pin Black 18 to close the 2nd power relay to the ECU and all 6 injectors , there is 1 fuse on this control and 1 fuse for the muscle power that passes through the relay

You can provide your own ground wire to close this relay or jumper between socket 3 and 5

The supercharged engine regulation is pretty much the same minus a 2nd fuel pump

 

It is a

36 Way TE Connectivity Econoseal

TE connectivity brand
The following is the ECU half with the bent pins inside of the ECU , not the correct pic but close

 

There is a inertia / crash switch that can trip very easily and can be reset ( does not always reset ) or jumpering between the 2 white wires on the 3 wire connector with a paper clip

This is a pic of a right hand steering model and the switch will always be on the right

You will see it fwd of your ECU

 

wow. I saw one post that told me what pin 18 was and I was entirely wrong. So much good information from everyone so far, but this seems to be the best. Are you saying that I don't need to replace my ecu, and I can just ground that relay myself with a standard ground wire at the source? Or am I getting ahead of myself?

 

I've checked this switch. It checks out just fine. Unfortunately.

 

To know that your suspect pin Black 18 is good enough the # 5 right large relay should click with your finger on it saying it has the correct command

Or have the ignition in run and remove the relay and it should click back open

If it does click it can still be bad inside on the power through contacts

The relay can be stuck in the socket and can be released with spray penetrate on the seam / split

This relay mount position can be switched around to the wrong mounting position

 

You know that is me in your pic with my foot on your bumper

I will be adding information into my above post , some tonight and later tomorrow on dialysis chair

My kidneys have a spot of stumble under my bonnet

 

You can provide the relay a ground you make on socket 1 ( below the relay socket body / shell ) wire color Brown / Purple

You can strip the insulation off the existing wire still installed in the socket shell , this will not short / harm the ECU as old school precaution

Not socket 1 face of the socket shell

Relay installed for engine run

Verify the wire color to know the mount position is not switched

Test the Socket 1 does not have power on it before choosing that as # 1 or it will blow the fuse on the true socket 2

This because the pic below can be the image you see or mirror image