It stops after about minute. It has started to get worse though and last longer. It started right after the serpentine belts were replaced. I thought it was because the belts were new and had to stretch out a bit. Any ideas?

 

Try removing the belts and check the idler pulley. See if it squeals when you turn it by hand. They are made of plastic.


Make sure the belts are at the right tension as well when refitting.

 

You probably need to repair the damper (Dale manufacturing or Damper Doctor)

bob

 

Steve,

In case you aren't familiar with what Bob is describing, it's the crankshaft damper or harmonic balancer that is part of the crankshaft pulley assembly. The metal pulley and inner crankshaft reluctor/collar are isolated from each other by a hard rubber compound, which weakens over time. When it eventually cracks or separates from either the pulley or collar, the slipping rubber makes a loud screeching sound like a giant drive belt slipping, until the rubber heats up and its friction increases to the point the slipping stops.

Cheers,

Don

 

Spray some penetrating oil into the AC idler pulley and see if it goes away for a bit as this pulley commonly goes bad . $ 15 local auto pats store . If it is that report back as there are tricks to removing the assembly as the area environment freezes them up .

You may have put a higher tension on a failing pulley .

Mark the harmonic balancer with some white paint as in Aholbro1's pic below and ensure they stay lined up . Saw a used one on Ebay on a seller store section for $ 200 and stated that it was good and a bad one was for $ 60 .

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...lancer-101674/

 

At the less drastic end of the spectrum, it could be a belt slipping because it isnt tight enough, or stressing a bearing because it is too tight.
Did you do the work yourself? If not, I would take it back to whoever did it, and let them run through the diagnostic steps the guys have suggested.
If you did it yourself, what is your own sense of whether you could have over or under tightened a belt?
If your car is supercharged, try removing the supercharger belt and running it to see if the squeal goes away. If not, remove the A/C belt and try again. If still squealing, I would perform the check for the crankshaft damper delaminating before addressing the alternator/ waterpump drivebelt and idler.
Replacement idlers are not expensive or difficult. The crankshaft damper is a bit trickier, and needs to be reconditioned these days as NLA new.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/No-good-199...4AAOSw9dhala3q

 

My bet is belt tension. Or brand new, but ancient, rock hard belts.

I put "new" belts on mine and they ticked and squeaked. Checked everything and no issues. Went to replace the belts again and NAPA handed my the same brand belt and it had a date code on it and it was old....IIRC around a decade!!! Rock hard. He dug out a much softer and supple and sticky set of belts and no issues.

I did have to retighten the belts a week or two later as there is no tensioner and once they were in and stretch they are too loose. 3 minutes. 13mm and a 15 mm. climb under loosen the mounting bracket. Back on top loosen the outboard bolt and then tighten up on the inboard bolt to tighten the belt. retighten everything you loosened and test.

 

The teeth and the very front of the pulley are fixed to the same metal piece. The middle pulley is mounted to the polymer and is what moves independent of the rest. Here's pics of a damaged one that was marked in the same manner as the one depicted in post #5, then run for a few minutes:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rs-shot-99495/

If you determine it is the idler pulley, here is some guidance:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...lt-how-102387/

With all due respect to (aka Lady P)Parker, IMHO it is easier to mark the damper as a first step. Then, even if it checks out fine, you are set for next time you hear a weird cold-start noise (after this one is sorted) plus, you haven't risked getting penetrant on the drive belts, which you don't want.

On the other hand...many folks have penetrating oil sitting on the shelf in the garage but are bereft of paint or white-out....so use whatcha got...just be careful about oiling the belt-pulley interface - that'll begat a cleanup effort likely involving more new belts!

FWIW, when I tore mine apart for damper repair...I went all "teenage adolescent boy" on the idler pulley with the compressed air blow-nozzle. Innocently enough at first....just to see if it were responsible, in part, for any of the cacophony of noises emanating from the FEAD....it wasn't...but I was enamored of the supercharger-like spin-up noise it made, so did that several times, in both directions. No roughness nor resistance to movement when first removed. However, next morning, after playing with it with the air-hose and then letting it sit overnight, I could barely turn the thing and it was very rough and "ratchety."
So if it IS your damper, you'll be down a week or more awaiting repair...I'd fit a new idler pulley while you are at it.

 

It was the pulley. It's been replaced. Thanks for the info.

 

 

But we already knew that!!!!

Been through it dozens of times.

bob

 

did you find a solution? Mine seems to be worse when it’s cold out. I can also get it to go away by revving the engine in Park or giving it some throttle when driving.

Usually goes away after about a minute, but lately has been getting longer and more frequent (used to only be on first startup of the day).

thanks,

ikiel

 

Hi ikiel,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.

If you have checked the condition and tension of your accessory drive belts and they are good, then paint marks on your harmonic damper/crankshaft pulley as shown earlier in this thread, run the engine, then shut it off and see if the marks still align. If they no longer align, the rubber core of the damper has failed.

Cheers,

Don

 

let it run for a while then turn off

Not long enough to have the coolant warm up

Turn the engine off

with the engine not running feel the alternator pulley for heat and a sign that alternator bearing has gone bad

Happened to my Lady Penelope and you can take the alternator to a shop and have a bearing replaced , try to keep your original alternator as replacements are sketchy

Do the harmonic balancer slip test


Squirt some penetrating oil in the idler pully bearing with the engine not running , start back up and see if the squeal disappears