radiator rubbers
#2
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xjfourty (01-13-2018)
#4
#5
Not urgent . I removed the lower bracket by tying up the drained radiator and condenser to the upper bracket with some twine . Once removed I hit the lower bracket with a wire wheel and spray paint as the original paint was poor and rusting . The lower attach bolts are the same size as the bolts along the top before you crawl under there but will need an 6 inch extension . Important to look to see if the fluid is green or orange color or the third color I can't remember . My power steering hose was leaking which is common and had migrated onto the lower bracket . Cut off an inch of hose as it comes out of the reservoir so it has fresher material to clamp . Item and 6 and 11 ? I'll buy bushings later as all of mine are gone .
https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-3-2-4-0-litre
https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-3-2-4-0-litre
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 01-14-2018 at 12:16 AM.
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xjfourty (01-14-2018)
#6
Not a big fan of parts moving around that aren't supposed to be. Both of my XJ6s had disintegrated upper and lower radiator bushings, cheap and easy to replace. You may also want to check the upper and lower air conditioner condenser bushings at the same time as they are next to the radiator.
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#8
Not urgent . I removed the lower bracket by tying up the drained radiator and condenser to the upper bracket with some twine . Once removed I hit the lower bracket with a wire wheel and spray paint as the original paint was poor and rusting . The lower attach bolts are the same size as the bolts along the top before you crawl under there but will need an 6 inch extension . Important to look to see if the fluid is green or orange color or the third color I can't remember . My power steering hose was leaking which is common and had migrated onto the lower bracket . Cut off an inch of hose as it comes out of the reservoir so it has fresher material to clamp . Item and 6 and 11 ? I'll buy bushings later as all of mine are gone
I Added blue Pentofrost anti-freeze concentrate fluid. According to O'Reilly auto parts was compatible with my Jag...
At this point if I Want to completely flush all the coolant fluid/water and put new one what should I choose ?
#9
If it were mine, and I have done all of mine over the years, I would replace them ASAP.
The PLASTIC pegs of the radiator are rattling on steel holes, OOPS, and if they wear/break, the plastic not the steel, then a radiator is needed, OOPS again.
Condensor rubbers, mentioned, also do them.
Lift the radiator out, do it all, repeat in 20 years.
Coolant, whatever your market recommends, and I will not suggest, as we are known to be different.
The PLASTIC pegs of the radiator are rattling on steel holes, OOPS, and if they wear/break, the plastic not the steel, then a radiator is needed, OOPS again.
Condensor rubbers, mentioned, also do them.
Lift the radiator out, do it all, repeat in 20 years.
Coolant, whatever your market recommends, and I will not suggest, as we are known to be different.
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Scotlad (01-14-2018)
#10
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#11
Upper and lower radiator bushings are the same part. I went with the URO brand for these, a harder rubber than the original and hopefully will outlast the original softer bushings. They are very inexpensive. The bottom ones are a little trickier to do, I did not remove the hoses but did use a little dielectric grease on them to help slide them into place as I was prying the radiator up.
The condenser bushings use a different top and bottom, one set of them is cheap and a copy part, the other set is only available as an oem part and is about six times the price.
I see a lot of pictures of guys thinking about buying these cars and when they show an engine compartment shot, most of the time you can see the radiator bushings are no longer there. It has also been mentioned on the Forum that if you let the condenser bushings go, the back and forth motion can actually rub a hole through the condenser, letting refrigerant leak out and then you need to replace the condenser itself and have the ac system recharged. A lot cheaper just to replace the bushings.
The condenser bushings use a different top and bottom, one set of them is cheap and a copy part, the other set is only available as an oem part and is about six times the price.
I see a lot of pictures of guys thinking about buying these cars and when they show an engine compartment shot, most of the time you can see the radiator bushings are no longer there. It has also been mentioned on the Forum that if you let the condenser bushings go, the back and forth motion can actually rub a hole through the condenser, letting refrigerant leak out and then you need to replace the condenser itself and have the ac system recharged. A lot cheaper just to replace the bushings.
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xjfourty (01-14-2018)
#13
If the A/C condenser bushes fail, then the unit rattles around until a hole wears into the core.
The unit must be replaced or repaired. Forum member aholbro1 knows all about this!!!!!
Since he owns 3 of these cars, he knows where to get the rubber mounts for the Rad and cond.
You might PM him for info??
bob
The unit must be replaced or repaired. Forum member aholbro1 knows all about this!!!!!
Since he owns 3 of these cars, he knows where to get the rubber mounts for the Rad and cond.
You might PM him for info??
bob
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xjfourty (01-14-2018)
#14
The top radiator bushes are in a way the "canary in the mine", and are likely indicators of similar issues lurking below. The condition of the top bushes will likely mirror those below, and those on the condenser. Wear in the condenser bushes will lead to tears before bedtime, and should be tackled sooner rather than later, although not in truth urgently. To get to them you will be in a position to replace the radiator bushes as you go, so it makes sense to aim to tackle them all in one exercise.
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motorcarman (01-15-2018)
#15
Not trying to hijack this thread, but I have the same issue. Ive done the lower ones and replaced and resprayed the lower mount as it was in terrible condition. I couldnt do the top mounts as all the torx fittings are siezed, rounded and painted over. Ive been pondering it for a while and I think a left handed drill bit is the best way to remove them? Think Il replace them with stainless hex bolts when I do get them out.
#16
You can fit the top bushes without removing the top panel, did it on my previous two cars as I had the same issue with rounded and rusted torx(luckily not on the latest car). Drilling these torx with the bonnet in place is a PITA job, angle grinder or welding a nut over it is better and easier or you can use a large strong screwdriver or crowbar and you will get just enough space to push the new bush in, its going to be difficult and tight but the new bush will go in without any damage to other bits.
#17
are these the A/C condenser upper bushings ?
Welsh Enterprises, Inc - Jaguar XJ6(95-97) / X300 Heating/Cooling A/C Components Parts - Oil Cooler Radiator Condenser And Fan Mount Bushing
Welsh Enterprises, Inc - Jaguar XJ6(95-97) / X300 Heating/Cooling A/C Components Parts - Oil Cooler Radiator Condenser And Fan Mount Bushing
#18
#19
I Replaced all the radiator and A/C condenser bushings.
the one from the A/C condenser are sold only by the dealer and they are insanely expensive, $28 each one!!
My "non jag" mechanic did the job he charged me 3 hour labor , $200 bucks.
It would have been much more expensive if I went to my Jag mechanic.
And myself I could not do this job.
the one from the A/C condenser are sold only by the dealer and they are insanely expensive, $28 each one!!
My "non jag" mechanic did the job he charged me 3 hour labor , $200 bucks.
It would have been much more expensive if I went to my Jag mechanic.
And myself I could not do this job.
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motorcarman (02-06-2018)
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