took the xjr out for a run to get before and after iat. Outside temps were at 66 and after stepping on in hard iat were up to 120, now im not sure if this is very accurate as I have seen similar iat with outside temps up in the 80. Maybe its the position of the sensor at the bottom of the intake manifold getting heated from the engine and giving false readings? I dont know.

I have an uprated pump, ported sc, sc vent holes are closed, the new sc plate with the big vent ports put out by magnum powers and I have dual exhaust. I would think iat temps would be better than that.

Now for my next problem, something i just notice, the STFT. At idle and slow speed readings are great in the low neg numbers. cruising around 40 thru 70 numbers are in the positive bouncing back +1 thru +13, this i dont like. But when I step on it and the sc engages STFT are stuck at 0, this I like. I dont think the pulley would be a good idea right now, because of the lean readings. I may go back to stock exhaust or have ecu reprogrammed by andy before I even think about adding any more air to the mix. PLEASE TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK.

 

It would be nice if the whine could sound like this beast! But it is luxury after all.

 

Decided to swap on MAF out as I happened to have a spare used one, this worked out great. Now STFT are at all times -1 thru -13, plenty of fuel to try sc pulley. I will let you guys know in a few days. Does anyone remember what there intake air temps are, I dont trust mine as accurate as they tend to remain the same no matter what the whether is like.

 

Before pulley change intake temps at worst were 115 with ambient air at 66 f. After pulley change intake temps at worst were at 114 with ambient air at 60 f. This is interesting because temps are almost the same at same or like conditions after the pulley change. I thought that iat were the same because the engine heat itself was regulating the iat. so in order to put my theory to the test I opened the hood and let it idle for 10 min, the result were temps went down to 107. So, in short, iat remain 45 degrees above ambient air despite the pulley change. I will try a fan and see if that helps, then a extra reservoir to add volume. This pulley is for winter only if I cant get temps down.
My mods are, ported sc by magnum powers , coated rotors and sc plate with larger vent port by magnum powers, uprated pump and a true dual exhaust. Placed stock air box back on and swapped out MAF with a used one I had bc lean conditions, fuel trims are better now just need to keep an eye on them. Sometimes at idle fuel trims a bit lean up to -10, while driving everything fine, what do you think? Time for a new maf?
Now for the fun stuff, the car PULLS HARD! almost like when I still had the stock exhaust. Had tuns of fun for about 20 minutes and then blew another coil! coil number 5 lights up like a xmas tree. Dont know whether to laugh or cry but I still love my car. this mod works with the other supporting mods and if we can figure out how to drop temps about 40 degrees for summer.

 

above thread should read fuel trims should read +10, my mistake sorry.

 

After having lots of fun last night stepping on it hard I realized that this mod would not be possible if the weather, 55 f, wasnt as cold as it was. I decided instead of trying to make more hp by mod after mod i wil go a whole new route, I am going to concentrate all of my efforts on keeping iat temps way down. So, in short, I am selling all my mods, going back to stock exhaust and going to work on the cooling system. Im just going to run a "killer chiller", take everything back to stock and call it a day. look for my ported sc and upgraded pulley in the classified section.

 

Why not keep (most of) the mods and run the killer chiller project as it is?

 

my car really needs a ecu programed by Andy because of all of the mods I have done. I have been having issues with lean conditions. On top of that in order to keep it as it is now i need to deal with all the heat issues for summer. It is getting expensive and its going to stay that way should I continue to force more air into the motor. the xjr already sports 10lbs of boost with a stock downpipes, when i went dual exhaust i lost all that torque and have been chasing it since. Sure my car has more hp but hp wins trophies and torque wins races! Should I go back to stock exhaust and deal with the heat issues Im sure I will be happy and I wont have to worry about getting my ecu reprogramed. I can do other things to gain speed that will not cause my car to go lean. My car was a beast, but the ambient air had to be at 55f for this to happen. I just dont want to keep on chasing the torque, and spending money, when I can easily get it back by going back to stock downpipes.

 

I can understand why you wanna get rid of the exhaust, but did the pulley and porting of the charger also cause loss of low end torque? I too would like more power, but if the price is less nm at low revs, I'd rather be without the "upgrades"...

 

The only cause of loss of low end torque was the change of exhaust, when I changed the exhaust I lost back pressure and the result was lost of boost then loss of torque. The ported sc was to help with heat and allow me to spin the sc faster, the larger vent sc plate allows for 10% more air flow and lower iat, then the lower pulley is said to give 15% more air flow. All this and I have not been able to get low end toque back the way it was. But it pulls like a train once you get rolling. But all this increase in air has the car dealing with lean issues way up top so the only fix is having the ecu reprogrammed. then i still have to deal with the cooling issues for summer. I decided to go a whole different way partly because I need new downpipes and cats, in order to pass smog test, and this will take me back to stock. And I have been spending a lot of money in playing with my car, I even have a ported throttle body, its huge, but its only good for all out racing bad for stop and go traffic as its hard to control speed. I plan on starting all over with stock exhaust and work mainly on cooling then maybe the diff. Dont want to deal with lean issues. OH and the pulley and sc did not cause loss of toque if anything it helped me get some back but without back pressure I have less boost, less torque. SC and pulley with new downpipes should be a monster but you could only run 10% more air without running into lean conditions. So I can do without the ported case and the pulley and keep the sc vent plate that does run at 10% and I will ok

 

Thanks for explaining. Learning all the time :-)

So the reason to not keep the ported charger and the pulley upgrade is to avoid the costs of reprogramming, because you'd rather spend the money on cooling the intake air?

 

Colder air would have helped me keep all the hp all of the time, trying to make more hp with hot air is a waste of time. Dont get me wrong with ALL the supporting mods all is great but it gets expensive, i think its cheaper to sell my sc case and pulley and concentrate my efforts on cooling and maybe change the diff. If I had to do it all over the only mods I would have done in order to avoid lean issues and take my car as fast as it would go would be Andy bracket, cold air intake, magnum powers sc plate with larger vent port, killer chiller, and change the diff. These mods would give you no lean issues. If you still want more speed time for another car.

 

I wonder:

1) Is the stock M90 Eaton SC effectively making the most boost it can make regardless of upsizing the lower pulley (or reducing the upper pulley). In other words, if you spin it faster, will it make more boost beyond OEM?

OR

2) Is the stock M90 Eaton SC making the most boost that the OEM intercooler and ECU map can support before the air charge gets too hot. In other words, if you spin it faster will it make more boost but just make the air charge too hot for the OEM intercooler to keep up with?

Does anyone know or have verified if #1 or #2 is accurate?

If really #2, and the M90 Eaton SC can actually make more boost with one of these upsized lower pulleys, then something like a larger intercooler or "Killer Chiller" might offset that overheated air-charge enough to make the upsized lower pulley beneficial and not a waste of time? Has anyone tested a larger lower pulley and increased intercooling effectiveness somehow to offset the increased air charge heat?


BTW, although very pricey at $800-900, these Killer Chillers look very interesting. It would interesting to know not only how well they handle reducing post SC intake air temps and any related HP increase, but also how they impact the ability for the A/C system to cool properly on the X300. Has anyone played with the Killer Chiller?

Kincaid Performance, Inc.


Here are some Killer Chiller threads from the forum overall (not X300):

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...chiller-41805/


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...hiller-111057/


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...chiller-84361/


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...ere-buy-74599/


Also interesting and linked from inside one of the above threads, some info on how to make your own "Killer Chiller":

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...n-forum-39419/


I've also been thinking about finding the auxiliary oil cooler that is used on all non-US X300 XJRs as a supplemental intercooler which almost certainly would help reduce post SC air charge temps with the OEM pulley.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...er-why-141163/

It would be interesting to know if that additional intercooler capacity with the oil cooler would be enough to allow the upsized lower pulley to be used effectively. I'm almost certain no one has tested that combination of oil-cooler retrofit as an additional intercooler AND upsized lower pulley, but would be interesting to see if it keeps temps down enough.

Here are a couple threads on the additional/larger intercooler option, although it offers nothing conclusive:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cooler-121973/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-query-121086/



.

 

You can od the sc and create more boost. the larger pulley will give you an extra umph but you do have to deal with the heat issues. you can have a fan mounted on the sc cooler or the killer chiller would be great, a lot cheaper if you make your own. I have done lots to my xjr and I could tell you that you would be much happier with the results if you were to improve on the air intake as much as possible and possibly keep iat temps down with a fan on the sc cooler. more hp for your buck. aftermarket pulley just cost way to much and then you have to deal with the heat soak issues, it never ends. I took my larger pulley off because car went into boost much too easy for my taste. In short, better intake, fan on sc cooler, andy bracket and change diff. that is all i would have done to my car looking back on all my upgrades.

 

Jeremiah, what diff ratios have you changed from and to?
My XJR has, I assume, std diff. It does about 2100rpm at about 100km/h (manual gearbox) .

Ignorant question, but where is the intercooler circuit?
I assumed the intercooler on the 6 cyl XJR is cooled by the engine coolant, which never seemed the best arrangement, but I have then read that the octopus hose is a bridge between the two coolant systems for pressure equalisation..
Does the intercooler circuit have its own radiator, and is the coolant moved only by the Hella electric pump? If so, where is the actual 'radiator' for the intercooler circuit?

 

The intercooler radiator sits in front of the main radiator. If you look in your RH side of the grill, you'll see it as it is smaller than the main radiator.

Yes, the intercooler coolant circuit is connected to the main engine coolant, but it has been pointed out that the temps do not seem to be affected as there is little to no transfer of coolant and the interconnect is for pressure regulation.

.

 

thanks Al
I just washed my car in the winter sun, and there was enough light to see the front supercharger radiator, then I traced the two hoses, via the intercooler pump.
It seems the ways to improve intercooling would be

1. bigger flow pump (eg the upgraded Bosch one)
2. bigger radiator +/- fan (although AC fans should do it)
3. bigger water reservoir or dedicated reservoir for intercooler circuit to reduce heat sink in traffic / hot weather (gets to 30'C plus in summer where I live)

I may get a better Bosch pump put in next time the car needs attention.

cheers, Al

 

Yep, my plans are the same. I was just on eBay looking at aftermarket intercoolers actually

I'm not sure if additional capacity would that beneficial if one already added another intercooler, but it couldn't hurt. I am thinking about adding a second intercooler places behind the lower grill opening. Then perhaps adding a single fan to the main intercooler to help with heat soak.

I'd also consider adding a water spray system as there are some very simple and cool systems out there that can help reduce intercooler temps quite a bit for WOT use.

.