Hi. I recently came across a 1999 Jag Vanden Plas with about 90,000mi. When I bought it it was non-running and advertised as needing a crank + main bearings. I bought it for a steal and have started in on it.

I got it running within 2 hours of playing with it--mainly just needed the fuel system bled. Then started to diagnose the loud, occasional knocking sound. I found a bad head gasket on the driver's side and a spun bearing in what I believe is cylinder #1 (forward most on passenger side).

I have begun rebuilding the engine out of my garage and will discuss it in this thread. If you have information germane to the topic then feel free to post and if you have questions or would like to discuss the project with me, then feel free to message me.

Currently I have the engine on the stand in my garage and it is completely torn down. The connecting rod journal on the crank was worn to .120" under spec. I sent it out to Crankshaft Craftsmen in Detroit, MI to have it welded and re-ground to spec. I also took the connecting rod out to have that re-bored at a performance shop called Holbrook Racing Engines.

I've already gotten the crankshaft back and just ordered bearings this morning. I measured with a micrometer and compared to the specs on ProDemand.com and settled on a full set of Green colored bearings that seemed they would be adequate. I am currently waiting for parts to arrive and then I will plastigauge it and hopefully continue to assemble the engine.

 

There was a thread in the XK section a while ago by someone who did a total rebuild on a 4.0. Might be worth a look or a PM.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...st-pics-87047/

 

Make sure you find the pdf of the engine rebuild training course manual posted here.

 

The Engine Repair Course Code 168 pdf file is on the forum's mediafire.com large files download area - Link ref: Techincal Training Guides - http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13713903049258.

I have been trying to avoid going to any of the mediafire.com webpages to download files because their download webpage format is very confusing and and it is hard to find where on the webpage to do the download. Looks like they want you to install iLividSeteup program on your PC before you can actual download the file you want.

You can download the Engine Repair Course Code 168.pdf file on my drop.box account:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/06ht7ybwiz...Code%20168.pdf

When the dropbox.com webpage opens just click on the download menu button, the click on the direct download menu option.

I noticed that you will get a different download messages depending on the web browser you are using.

Internet Explorer 10 - gives the option to open or save the pdf file download

Firefox 17 - gives the open with or save options

Google Chrome 27 - comes up with warning (maybe be harmful message which you should ignore - there is no problems with this pdf file ) and keep or discard options. Click on the keep button, then click on Engine Repair Course.

Here is a JPEG file showing screen shots of the 3 internet browers webpages displaying their download options:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ocyfm9dmtx...ss%20views.jpg

Click on the image when the webpage opens to get a larger and sharper view of the JPEG file.

Jim Lombardi

 

Hey Disco, I am looking forward to your thread- especially the cost and time part.

It seems to me there are lots of bargains to be had if the cost of a total rebuild comes in line... I have opted for used motors up to a short block but have not touched a bottom end because of the concern for the cost.

 

I apologize for my untimely nature. I have been very busy. I finished this project a few months ago and have since put about 4000 miles on the beauty. I think I should clarify that this was more of a lower end repair than a rebuild; also, I did not replace everything that is usually recommended because if something else breaks then I can simply take it apart and fix it.

This project probably took me just over two months to complete because of my busy schedule and the way that I went about getting parts for it. I had about $1,100 into parts and about 30 hours into the whole deal when I finally got it back together and switched it to my everyday driver.

I originally thought that I may have just had a bad head gasket so I pulled the two heads and found one clearly bad head gasket and about a quarter inch of play up and down in cyl #1. Then I proceeded to pull the rest of the engine out and left the transmission. I was working in my driveway and had the front end up on two jack stands and used a bottle jack to hold the front of the trans up. I also found that I had a motor mount torn in two that I replaced with ease since the engine was out.

I replaced all rod and main bearings using excellent deals that I found after a lot of searching and homework. I did some messing around, but finally ended up taking the crankshaft to Crankshaft Craftsmen in Detroit, MI. The man was very helpful. I had them weld and regrind the cyl. #1 journal to match the rest. They did excellent work and also polished it for me for $120. They also had a 3 day turn around. I replaced the bearings with all green color coded bearings to match the ones that I pulled out of the engine--even though the engine code bullshit gave me different results. When I plastigauged it, it proved all of my measurements to be correct and within spec. So I assembled it with Blue RTV silicone and a few new seals as needed, as well as a new set of NGK Platinum plugs and a lot of cleaning. I also did some polishing where needed with a fine steel wool on surfaces that were scuffed from metal shavings. I DID NOT replace pistion rings (leak tested before disassemble), stretch bolts, or any timing components. Most people would disagree with me on this. I feel justified in my ways.

I would have liked to have more time to disassemble the heads and do a valve job, but alas, did not have a surplus of free time.

I also replaced all dome, parking, lic. plate lights with LED bulbs and bought custom floor mats from AUTO ETC on ebay.

I installed 6000K HID headlights but have been having troubles with the ballasts so I have reverted back to halogen and may have to buy a higher quality ballast before I re-install HID's; although, they did look great and work well without projectors.

When I was finished, I topped off the trans fluid using Royal purple Max ATF and had to do a hard reset to get to run properly.
I broke in the bearings using a high-detergent oil for the first 3000 miles (did an additional filter change at 500 miles), and have since replaced it with Royal Purple High Performance Full Synthetic 10w-30 which I got for a good deal and also used a royal purple filter--nothing but the best. I plan to run that for 10,000 miles per oil change.

I'm at just over 95,200 miles on the clock and it has been running awesome. I have taken it on a few long road trips and have had no problems; one of those road trips was a 1300 mile round trip where the only thing that my car required was gasoline and my will to keep driving.

 

Also, I have attempted to re-glue the ceiling liner. It was my first time trying this, it is better but I will have to have another go at it.

I have also recently been talked into replacing the clutch on my girlfriend's x-type at 102,000 miles and will be posting about that too.

 

Thanks for the update- I was wondering if I could do the bottom end, looks like I might have to give it a try one of these days.

 

Absolutely. It was a little bit daunting, but i think that it is a worthy project to tackle rather than stuffing in a junk-yard engine. I definitely would recommend doing this project with a service manual though; I referenced ProDemand.com for all of my torque specs and procedures, but I doubt that most others have that luxury.

 

Nearly two years later, it looks like I will be taking this on. Wish me luck.

 

Have Your Connecting rod bolts hold still?
Did You do them to 60 Nm or as the other way; x Nm + degrees?

I have been waiting my paid and promised ARP bolts shipped for 11 days.
Seller said he ship within 1 day of payment. Not Yet.

I have 85k mile XJR that had 115psi on 2nd cyl, and oil on 7 and 8 exhaust.
Now comming back again, probably valve seals and overheated piston ring on 2nd. Other as new interior. Pitty that allready tapped oilsquirter holes are blocked - close call to 4.2 - built 2002 May.
Seems to be too risky to open those, with the crankshaft still in.

Regards Eero

 

Hi Eero,

My car is still running strong! I have put 36,000 miles on it since I dropped the engine back in and it had been a pleasure. I continue to use this car as my daily driver.

The bolts that they use for this engine to hold the cylinder heads on and the main bearing caps (assembly known as a bedplate or girdle) are called Torque-to-Yield bolts. The ones for the lower end are intended to be single use only and the bolts for the heads are supposed to allow for a second installation. I reused both sets of bolts when I repaired my engine and used the oem torque procedure ( nm + angle ) to reinstall the bolts. The idea is that when torqued down these bolts will stretch during the installation and create extra tension to hold in place.

I recommend using the oem procedure. If you are reusing bolts then I cannot give you any guarantee or assurance that the bolts will hold. There is a lot of engineering that goes into the metallurgy and application of these special bolts and the best solution is probably to replace bolts as the repair procedure requests.

That said; my reasoning for reusing the lower end bolts is that the procedure allows for the head bolts to be reused and lists the same procedure for used and new bolt installation for the heads. This may have been foolish thinking since there is a considerable size difference between the head bolts and lower end bolts.

I digress. I hope I have shed some light on this topic for you. Good luck with your project. If you have further questions then I will try to respond to them in a timely manner.

 

The most critical is the connecting rod - piston. Smallest bolt, smallest torque "window" before braking point (largest price).
That is the main question of Your amazing DIY projekt. Did You use those again?
I have 75 year friend, that has been one of the legends in racing engine building. Couple months ago I dug from him a basic rule with TTY situations; and "IF there is several bolts as is in the Jag main girdle (as in some porches), it might be ok to use those bolts again, IF necessary".
He would NOT do it with connecting rods.

He said to tighten the others a little less than 1st time.
70% I asked? "Something like that" he said. Case by case -Long/short etc.
Some Flywheel bolts and washers (in some BMW´s) should NEVER be used again, because the washers are grimping 0,01-0,03mm. Once.

I have 10 free XJ8 rods with used bolts, waiting to do test - when they will brake, but I desided (as not much XJR pistons or other parts in used market - ebay etc.) to check the ARP ones.
NOW they are on their way, but I don´t trust them either, before I have those in my hand, and they match those measures, gaved by ARP employee on phone.
The key is that all the thread has to go IN the solid rod. Then they will survive. That is to be seen - soon.
OEM bolts have long thread, that is different type of bolt.

Regads Eero, thank You for replying! Nice to hear Your good news.