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99 xjr hood passenger catch doesnt release

 
  #81  
Old 06-30-2015, 05:29 PM
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Dakine, I found the passg side to be easy after some trial and error. So the driver should be the same.

Look at post #61, Looking at the 3rd photo, I found it easier to push with a flat head screw driver at the aluminum protrusion right next to the screw that holds the latch apparatus in place. (that protrusion will move the whole latch backwards releasing the bonnett)
 
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  #82  
Old 07-08-2015, 12:40 AM
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Finally did it! Thanks to everyone here. I used the hole that was already there and pushed on the aluminum post that was holding the spring (picture#3 on post# 79). Looks like there are many different ways to pop the latch.
 
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  #83  
Old 06-18-2016, 08:56 PM
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I just did this today. The passenger side hood latch would not release. I followed the directions here, took the wheel off, took the plastic liner off, the hole between the panels already had no sealant. It took quite a while to pop the latch. I kept coming back into the house to look at the photos on this thread. The only thing I would add is that the latch is just inside the hole, you do not need a long screwdriver. Just feel around with the screwdriver for the spring. The reason mine was not working was the small plastic grommet at the cable lever had disintegrated with age.
Many thanks to all that contributed to this thread.
 
  #84  
Old 03-01-2017, 08:52 PM
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Default broke hood release cable

I have 04 Vandan Plas with a broken hood cable release and cannot open hood. Anyone have any suggestion as to getting it to open. thanks in advance.
 
  #85  
Old 07-03-2017, 03:59 AM
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My new plight lol.



Found this video on YT.
 

Last edited by King Charles; 07-03-2017 at 04:02 AM.
  #86  
Old 02-13-2018, 03:19 PM
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Anyone still have ics od the hood release cable on passenger side?
 
  #87  
Old 02-26-2018, 02:09 PM
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Not fretting - just ticked off, I hate digging around in holes! LOL
 
  #88  
Old 03-09-2019, 08:00 PM
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a late add to this post.

I had to find a way to open the hood on my 98 after I completed a repair to the locking mechanism then reassembled it "without reading the corrections" as my daughter once observed ~30 years ago on another too rapid attempt at repairing something.

In my case it was the drivers side that failed. I didn't need to drill the hole as I had feared, but was able to open the hood by inserting a short screwdriver through the gap between the fender and engine compartment sheetmetal - the same as some other posters have reported.

To add to what they said:
  • the screwdriver should be fairly short. Mine was about 6" (10cm) including handle. The latch assembly is only a couple of inches from the insertion point
  • insert the screwdriver so it points starlight in towards the the engine, and is roughly horizontal until it hits the assembly
  • You should know you are in the correct place when you hear the tensioning spring making a noise as you move the screwdriver.
  • Get the screwdriver "engaged" in the spring coil and force it towards the firewall. This will move the lever arm that opens the catch
If you are doing this in the right spot, it should pop open easily. It took me about 5 minutes of working with the screwdriver.

If for some reason this doesn't work on your car, a hole drilled about 1" toward the centre of the car from the gap should work. NB that I don't see it in other posts, but I think that the hole will go through 2 pieces of metal - an inner liner and the fender liner.

As FYI the reason I was there in the 1st place is that I found the latch wouldn't hold closed. I found that this was because the fixed and of the tensioner spring connects at one end to an "arm" which is part of the molding that projects from the plastic housing the latch assembly mounts on. That arm had fatigued and give way after years of use. I repaired it by epoxying a piece of plastic onto the bracket and drilling it for the spring to attach to.

My error on reassembly was not making sure the cable was properly seated into the ears that hold it in place, so it popped off when the lid closed. If I had spent another 60 seconds instead of rushing, it would have been obvious I hadn't connected it properly. That added a couple of hours work to correct......
 
 
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