1998 jaguar vanden plas.
had a brake light out driver side (us) replaced bulbs no problems. later when it became dark out turned lights on and no tail lights with amber dash light illuminated reading "rear bulb fail". no tail lights but all three brake lights light up. I tested all fuses in the "boot" trunk all were good but replaced all the 5amps anyways starting with 21 (another thread says this was the one for their running lights on similar year and US model.) Still no tail lights. of course this year I decided to be Austin powers on trick or treat night (for the child) and was going to drive us in the SHAGUAR but not without running lights. I'm planning on checking the three fuses under the heel boards tonight when child goes to sleep. if they're good do you recommend I go straight to the bpm or start getting into that trunk hinge wiring harness to look for breaks? Thank you all for your time.

 

I forgot to add, my side markers and fog lights, headlights and high beams all work

 

so, I actually managed to fix this. after scouring the forums and service shop manual I decided to try to reset the BPM by taking negative and positive cables off the battery and touching them together for a bit. connected it all back up turned the lights on and let I sit in acc for awhile, went and checked. Taillights every time now.

 

I should add that when I did this I did not remove the 20amp fuse in heelboard panel for BPM. I noticed when taking child to school today that my heater no longer gets hot, but my door lock button inside now works and my dash light bulbs that do work are no longer flickering. should I remove that fuse and try it again or is this a sign that BPM is on its last legs? thank you all

 

Sometimes a hard reset is all that is necessary (magic or just the season of goblins?). I would keep an eye on it; in my 2001 I had to change out the Body Processor . . . I never thought to try a hard battery reset . . . if you have to go to a replacement BPM be careful that the VCAT matches.

 

could a BPM that's going bad cause my heat to stop working after doing hard reset? (made it travel elsewhere) or is this coincidental? I found a 1999 vanden plas BPM (I have 1998 VDP) do you suppose its likely that when ford bought jag in 99 they used the same vcats number/parts from 98? thank you for your time
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was just in trunk grabbing a rubber mallet for a repair and was tempted to hit my CD eject button (was stuck prior and CD player wasn't reading any discs) it spit the thing right out for me. will try later and see if it will play them again now. If I wasn't before I definitely am now wondering just how much stuff the BPM controls or effects.

 

Ford Motor Company acquired Jaguar in 1989 for $2.5 billion

 

huh interesting. I was always told and read that The British Leyland Motor Corporation became nationalized in 1975 because of financial difficulties. In 1984, Jaguar became its own company again. That Ford Motors purchased Jaguar in 1999 and would follow up by purchasing Land Rover in 2000. That Ford motors sold to Tata corporation in 2008.
In fact it was even explained to me by these forums that I could take a 99 and up so far Ford,Lincoln or Mercury key fob and program it to my 98 jaguar for this reason. however investigating this I see mixed reports that they offered to buy it in 89 but didn't officially do so until 99 not sure. interesting nonetheless

 

CD player works entirely now (really makes those infinity door speakers hit harder than the radio does), taillights work again, dash T10 bulbs don't flicker anymore, door lock button works Everytime now. still no cruise control (hasn't worked in the 10 years I've owned the car). I think my heat issue is just a separate coincidental thing, possibly clogged weep ports? no heat in idle even when at temp, however if I keep Rpms at 2500-4k for awhile (maybe 1 minute) heat will come through. I've read that these have two different heaters. one for low rpm as an auxiliary and the other that kicks in somewhere above 2k Rpms. thermostat and housing for it is about 8 years old so I don't believe it's stuck. thoughts?
I failed to mention the battery was replaced about half a year ago with a used Mercedes battery. could the vehicle be civilly disobeying about the battery and it's remaining life expectancy?

 

There is an electric pump for the climate control..
I would 'jump-the-relay' to make sure the pump is working.

You will get minimal heat without the electric pump.

 

thank you so much for this. I have spare relays, don't suppose you know by chance which panel that would be in?
---edit---
nvm found this.

 

" I think my heat issue is just a separate coincidental thing, possibly clogged weep ports? no heat in idle even when at temp, however if I keep Rpms at 2500-4k for awhile (maybe 1 minute) heat will come through "

This is an indication the coolant electric heater pump is not coming on and the higher engine RPM will then move coolant through heater core / matrix , common observance when faulty electric heater pump

With the electric coolant pump for the heat ( heater pump ) you can tap on it with the end of a broom handle , but not too hard as aged rubber mounts

If comes back to life would indicate you just loosened the electric motor brushes ( 2 ) and possibly soon time to replace brushes , brushes are cheap

.15" x .15" x .35" BRUSH 33A

There is a climate control system seft - test on the dash control panel that can tell you some things but not everything like a biased signal from a dirty cabin temp sensor ( clean only with air and a brush )

See page 110 for your XJ series Jaguar

T703 BOOK

See page 50 Climate Control , part 2 , notice relays and fuses X , Y , and Z

X300 98/E COVER

In heat mode operation the electric coolant pump ( heater pump ) will run at all times , the coolant valve ( heater valve ) will modulate open / closed to maintain cabin set temp


So on first turning on heat mode you should feel Heater Pump Relay # 1 click closed

Looking for fuses

# 15 / 10 amp engine compartment fuse box

Point 5 square is a hot at all times power connection to battery cable in the engine compartment fuse box

Point 44 double hash circle is fuse # 3 / 10 amp eggine compartment fuse box

To jumper the heater pump relay in Motorcarman's ( Bob's ) suggestion would be socket 3 to 5

 

stellar information. I tried a brand new relay and still no heat. I just pulled into work and went to hit the door unlock button after putting it into park but instead of unlocking doors it did nothing but make a sound. so I pressed it 2-3 more times and held a little longer than normal on third time and it started to roll up my driver window. shocked by this I held the button down to see if it would roll it up all the way. not only did the door lock/unlock button roll my window up all the way it made my sun roof crack open. utterly confused by this.
also I didn't have a relay in the location marked "power wash" so when I put the new relay in for electric pump I put the old relay in the spot marked power wash.

I know my shop when they had it in added something to the coolant which is why I was thinking weep ports might be clogged as it didn't appear to me that they flushed it very well after. but then with the door lock/unlock button now acting up I'm not sure if it's electrical or heater matrix.
I did find this technical service bulletin that seems to be enlightening.

 

From memory that heater pump is on the left front inner wing just in front of the header tank. You should be able to get to it easy enough to check it's getting voltage as well.

 

The feature you found is called GLOBAL CLOSING/GLOBAL OPENING.
It can be ENABLED/DISABLED with WDS/IDS.

 

The ignition switch is key to the whole car power distubution

The ignition switch is the same as on the X300

It provides a ground path ( to close king relays ) through to pin 5 which on the car side is a car frame ground



To test the power distribution have key in run position with engine not running

Remove king relay w , x , y , and Z and they should click in your fingertip back to open

Auxiliary positive relay , the 2 ignition positive relays , and the EMS control relay

This can be seen on page 31 of the 1998 wiring guide

These will be the 4 fuse boxes not including the trunk fuse box

Terminal nuts tight on the high power protection module in the trunk , pic coming

Power wash may be headlight wash which may be a option you don't have hence empty relay socket

There is a common coolant hose that is mis - routed under the hood that Motorcarman would know more about

I do not have the X308