When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Started dripping and leaving a small puddle and quickly progressed to “low coolant” warning after even short drives. Attaching photos. After searching the threads, I believe it is either near or part of the “octopus “ hoses going to heater core from rear center of engine. Large rubber hose runs from middle of engine and exits the rear, connects to a curved metal hose for short distance. It then attaches back to a rubber hose, and it is at this junction/clamp area, that it is leaking. Course of action? Replace that clamp( plastic)or replace the hose from that clamp down to the “T”? Or is this a total replacement of that whole mess just because of one failed plastic clamp? This clamp leaking right at the arrow point. The line is rubber connected to the metal curved line that connects to the large rubber hose from rear of engine. The site of the leak. Replace coupler? As viewed from passenger side looking down to rear of engine down thru the jumble of A/C and heater hoses.
Also replace the heater hoses under the intake manifold and the three way connection on the other side while you have it off. Stay with genuine Jag parts.
Originally Posted by Bbeck1118;2494136I believe it is either near or part of the “octopus “ hoses going to heater core from rear center of engine. Large rubber hose runs from middle of engine and exits the rear, connects to a curved metal hose for short distance. It then attaches back to a rubber hose, and it is at this junction/clamp area, that it is leaking. Course of action? Replace that clamp( plastic)or replace the hose from that clamp down to the “T”? Or is this a total replacement of that whole mess just because of one failed plastic clamp?
[img
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/b43c651b_a0f1_4cf4_bc79_21c37473879d_056b1937783b0 2ddb035708c00598dcc57b57415.jpeg[/img] This clamp leaking right at the arrow point. The line is rubber connected to the metal curved line that connects to the large rubber hose.
The plastic “Norma” clamp is part of the octopus. You might be able to engineer some kind of fix but I think I would replace the entire octopus. The metal pipe going to the rubber hose which runs in the V of the engine under the intake is probably corroded and might be the real problem.
As mentioned, the Norma hose clamp/attachment/Mickey mouse making me look stupid configuration, is in poor condition. Brittle, appears broken, but also swivels freely as it attaches to the metal line from engine. Searching for information on this clamp results in zero help. How does the clamp work? Push/pull? Click on and tabs to push to pull it apart? Magical incantations? I bought the O-ring and came home to start the repair, but it stumped me.
Replace it with an all new one. MNC6733AE is the part number.
about to do this last repair on my list now. Is this a Jag dealer part? I’m having no luck finding one anywhere else and I remembered you making this comment just now.
I bet that will be the best route. I tried Orlando this evening but no one was home. About 7:30 .. if they have it, I will drop in on one of my runs this week. I saw the entire octopus online at O’Reillys for $189 . Direct replacement.
Under $15. Length of 3/4 hose, 4 clamps cuz they came 2 to a bag, one 3/4 insert to attach the hose to the one I cut off. Then I cut the offending hose at the offending coupler, snipped the coupler until it gave in to my assault, cleaned off the rigid pipe and slipped the two hoses together and clamped them down. Then slipped the rubber hose over the coolant pipe, and clamped it down tightly. 15 minutes. We are about to go take the drive to break in the 02 sensor, and hope that the dash warnings will reset. It idles smoothly, sounds amazing, and has no leaks. Crossing fingers.
This car is amazing. Responsive, powerful and smooth running quiet engine all the way past 80. In Sport mode/ Mash on the gas too much and as it gets above 45, it bucks and kicks. Same as before but I’m attributing this to the restricted performance.
CEL still lit, and restricted Performance on the dash. We did highway and city but probably not quite enough. I will drive it to work tomorrow and that will put 75 miles on it. The only codes are now PO103 and 112.
No water leaks, and no new antifreeze smells.
So, your 103 (MAF itself) and 112 (intake air temp) are in the same unit...the MAF. Thus why you are getting the bucking effect.
While there, check your pin connectors and your cam cover vent tube and air filter as well. Those won't fix it, but your there, so check them.
Just an FYI for future reference, you can get a bucking effect, while trying to accelerate, with a bad knock sensor(s) as well, but they will generally throw a code easily.
Another FYI, when doing a code search...use Jaguar P0*** or whatever the code is. Your results will be more concise.
Is your MAF the original Denso? If so, take it off and look at the two resistors up inside the tube. If they look fuzzy, spray brake cleaner in there and use compressed air to blow it dry. If it’s not the original Denso MAF, there’s a strong chance that it’s not any good. I’d look for a used Denso that’s for your car vs any other MAF.
So, your 103 (MAF itself) and 112 (intake air temp) are in the same unit...the MAF. Thus why you are getting the bucking effect.
While there, check your pin connectors and your cam cover vent tube and air filter as well. Those won't fix it, but your there, so check them.
Just an FYI for future reference, you can get a bucking effect, while trying to accelerate, with a bad knock sensor(s) as well, but they will generally throw a code easily.
Another FYI, when doing a code search...use Jaguar P0*** or whatever the code is. Your results will be more concise.
yes, gotta get into that MAF sensor and figure out if the previous owner actually rewired it properly since he melted the 5 wires about 5 inches below the attachment. I have a new MAF on there, and the live data shows that two inputs are not showing values.( basically those two codes).
Also in previous issues, I had the knock sensor issue, with a code. I replaced the knock sensors and no issue remains there. Same thing with the misfire code and the coil pack. New plugs and coil packs and new KS done. New 02 sensors on The drivers side bank, and now fixed the water leak. I’ve been busy 😐.
Now, after driving it another 75 mile round trip to work, I have tried getting the “restricted performance “ and the CEL to go off and remain off. No dice. A couple dozen cold starts, 100 miles of city and highway driving, and and numerous attempts to clear codes. Cel will go off but immediately comes on at next start. RP never goes away. Last effort will be battery disconnected and drain the residual current by cable touching. Yes, I read up on that also. 😊.
I also put in a new air filter and the tube is clear and connected properly. I’ve been meticulous but somehow missing something. After doing those 02’s, I am convinced I can handle whatever this cat throws at me. Maybe.
Whatever is going on with that MAF needs to be corrected. Doing a hard reset is not likely to resolve your RP due to lack of readings from the MAF.
You may need to ohm check your grounds from the sensors and also at the bottom of the bank 1 catalytic converter is a big ground wire.
Another location to check is the firewall where the rather large engine management connector is at. Disconnect the battery first and then use a 10mm socket (I believe) to undo the connector. There could be corrosion in there as well. Sporadically over the last 28 years I’ve worked on vehicles when I’ve run across electrical anomalies, simply unplugging and plugging back in modules will be enough to remove “micro-corrosion”. This may or may not help you but, it certainly won’t hurt.
Coolant leak at rear of engine
