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I seem to have a slight water leak on the hose that goes from the coolant reservoir to the top of the radiator I believe it is the overflow hose. I am not sure if the plastic hose clip is in the right position or if that does not matter ?. But I have tried turning it and depending on which way I turn it. It makes the leak worse. If anyone has a picture of which position this plastic clip should be in it would help ?.
You're talking about the tiny tube, like 8mm diameter, right? There's an o-ring inside that connector but if you can rotate the connector easily, then you need to carefully inspect where the tube is swedged onto the connector as its too loose, maybe has cracked. On a brand new part, that connector is so tightly fitted to the tube that you can't rotate it, at least not easily, rather would twist the heck out of the tube before the connector would turn.
The plastic thermostat tower gets cracks and leaks. The aftermarket Aluminum towers are cheap and 100X better. I thought my problem was the hoses, but it was actually hairline cracking in the tower..
I think he is talking about the tube between the reservoir and the radiator. Maybe an O-ring, but more likely broken: buy on eBay while still available.
But do some searches: there are lots of threads on these brittle pipes.
I do not quite understand these O rings. I have never seen them used before on a car. Any ideas on how you undo and take these O rings off and put them on ?. I have twisted it and it does not seem to come off.
I think he is talking about the tube between the reservoir and the radiator. Maybe an O-ring, but more likely broken: buy on eBay while still available.
But do some searches: there are lots of threads on these brittle pipes.
Yes, I think the problem may be the pipe from the reservoir to the radiator.(MNC4583AC)
I do not quite understand these O rings. I have never seen them used before on a car. Any ideas on how you undo and take these O rings off and put them on ?. I have twisted it and it does not seem to come off.
Don't twist it off, it's just push-pull, but you have to "release" the retainer. There is a special tool just for spreading the retainer clip, but you don't really need it. Notice there is a round ring around the perimeter and if you squeeze it on two sides, it spreads and makes an oval, thus the tabs spread far enough to pass by the lip on the radiator or tank nipple and you can pull it off. Sometimes, just squeezing it is enough, but rarely. Usually it needs some "help". So I take two small precision screwdrivers and push under parallel tabs on either side. I just happen to have screwdrivers with shafts just the right size. Some people use a medium sized nail (the kind you hit with a hammer on purpose, not the kind you hit with a hammer by accident). But that's essentially all the special tool is, just a two-pronged fork with tines of a certain size.
This is the Jaguar special tool, but as per pdupler, sometimes you can squeeze the round ring to make it oval enough for the Norma connector to release, alternately a pair of screwdrivers, or I have had luck with "U" shaped 10/12 gauge solid electrical wire as a substitute.
Does anyone know what this O ring is called so I can look for it on ebay ?. Also does anyone know if you can get the removal tool on ebay ?. I looked on there but did not know what it was called to find it.
Hi Matt, I recently did my hoses, the small diameter ones that run from the header tank, on my Daimler Super Eight. If you don't have the special tool then a pair of thin needle nose pliers will do. When you get to pull the hoses apart check there are no cracks or splits. If there are, you should/need to replace them. Its a waste of time trying to repair them. Also there are 2 small rubber 'O' rings in the male part of the connectors. Replace them as they will be old and compressed and may not seal properly. As you live in the UK, British Parts in Stevenage will have what you need over the counter. Check out their web page and I have found them helpful over the phone too. They do deliver but check their delivery fees. Good luck!
Seriously? Take the broken part to an auto parts store or your dealer and ask for a new one! There must be close to a thousand threads on these pipes . . .
It's the O ring at the end of the hose that goes to the top of the radiator. I believe it's the overflow hose.
Matt if the hose is going to the top of the radiator then it is not the overflow, it recirculates from the radiator to the reservoir I believe a previous poster has even given the part number:
MNC4583AC
Last edited by Robman25; Apr 18, 2019 at 05:37 PM.
If you feel that the hose is still viable then go to any hose/seal shop in your area with the hose off the car and explain what you require.
I needed a replacement cup seal for my VH40 brake booster and took the sample in and they made one to fit.
I do not need the hose I just need the O ring that goes from the end to the top of the radiator. The hose is not damaged.
Mat,
Jaguar does not sell the O-rings separately, so there is no part number. But it's bound to be a standard metric-dimension O-ring. Any good auto repair shop in your area should stock metric O-rings and be able to match up the size for you. In the U.S., a European shop would be the first choice since the cooling system is probably German in origin (and those fittings are made by the German company Norma). For other components, such as Denso sensors, an Asian shop might be better, since the O-rings may be sized according to the Japan Industrial Standard. In my shop, I keep several assortments of metric O-rings and it has been some of the best and most time-saving money I've ever spent.
You might find a close-enough fit in the plumbing department of a hardware store, but the Buna-N O-rings for potable water are typically only rated to 250F/121C, which is borderline in an automotive cooling system.
Depending on the manufacturer, metric O-rings are sized by their cross-section and inside diameter (I.D.) or outside diameter (O.D.), so a typical size would be something like 2.0 X 6.0, where the cross-section is 2.0 mm and the I.D. is 6.0 mm. You can calculate the O.D. by adding the cross-section times two. For manufacturers who use the O.D., you subtract the cross-section times two to calculate the I.D.
In most auto parts stores in the US, there is a Dorman display of odd parts: usually there is a bag of o-rings of many sizes. Sometimes they are sold over with fasteners. The last bag I bought (I needed an o-ring for the dipstick) had about 30 different rings, usually two per size. But, I will bet it will still leak due to small fracture -- order the new pipe and be done.
Most of us have broken these: just too handy a hand rest while redoing water pumps and thermostats and drive belts. Bought a new one, after trying to seal the broken one. Replaced it. Took the car in for a dealer oil change (because of all the Land Rovers, Checker Flag Service loves me and sends all these coupons). Checking the car out, I notice the new pipe had now been replaced by an even newer pipe (at no cost). Apparently even the pros put their hands in the wrong spot . . .
Jaguar XJ8 1999 4.0 Slight water leak!
