XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Oil issue..?

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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 01:54 PM
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Default Oil issue..?

I changed my own oil about 2 months ago (?) and I knew I was burning some oil, so I decided I should check it, I did, and it was a bit low... I added about 6-6.5qts of Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10w40. Turns out the 4.0L v8 takes 7.5 qts?!

Well, anyway, to help with the burning oil issue, I am curious to know if 15w40 will harm this engine?

Thanks
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 04:03 PM
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Try a qt. of Restore and see if that helps. You probably have a nikasil lined engine, and if so, the liners may be damaged. This is not a common problem now as high sulfur fuel is a thing of the past, but a leakdown test might be a good idea.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by RJ237
Try a qt. of Restore and see if that helps. You probably have a nikasil lined engine, and if so, the liners may be damaged. This is not a common problem now as high sulfur fuel is a thing of the past, but a leakdown test might be a good idea.

I will try that. If I was unclear, when I did an oil change I only added 6-6.5qts. So, maybe 2qts give or take in 3500 miles?
Is that uncommon for these engines? I am just assuming that the liners are a bit worn or damaged given its age and milage.

Do you know where I can find the build date of the engine?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 05:18 PM
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To reduce oil burning, you need to raise the second number of the oil, which is the hot viscosity. Chances are, it's burning when the engine is hot. 15w40 vs. 10w40 is only thicker when cold, it's the same when hot.

Trouble is, that means going up to 10w50 or similar, which is not recommended.

Best bet : keep putting oil in.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 07:45 PM
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The engine build date is stamped on the block to the left of the thermostat housing. You will need a flashlight and crawl on top of the engine.

I cn't find to note, but I think the last nickasil was 13 Aug 2000.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by RJ237
The engine build date is stamped on the block to the left of the thermostat housing. You will need a flashlight and crawl on top of the engine.

I cn't find to note, but I think the last nickasil was 13 Aug 2000.
Can you tell me how to find the date on the tranny too?
And is there any way to tell if the A-Drum has been repaired/upgraded without records or tearing apart the trans?


Thanks!
Given that my car is a model year 2000, built in roughly November or October of 1999 and sold in late December 1999 it very likely has Nickasil liners.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 11:07 PM
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Ever heard of an engine failure because of the wrong weight motor oil put into the engine? I never did. My Mercedes and my Maserati uses 20W-50 motor oil. But manufacturers are now recommending using thinner oils to reduce parasitic drag on the engine and to increase gas mileage. BTW, oil treatment is really thick stuff to help in the seals and rings. but it creates a sticky mess when rebuilding an engine.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Bcrary3
Can you tell me how to find the date on the tranny too?
And is there any way to tell if the A-Drum has been repaired/upgraded without records or tearing apart the trans?


Thanks!
Given that my car is a model year 2000, built in roughly November or October of 1999 and sold in late December 1999 it very likely has Nickasil liners.
There is a serial# plate on the side of the transmission, usually hidden by the exhaust pipe. For a build date you will have to contact ZF.

Without records you have no way of knowing if it was rebuilt. But if you do a drain to upgrade the pressure valve with either the ZF or Transgo valve and the fluid comes out black, be doubtful.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 06:02 AM
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 01:51 PM
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Thanks for the info!
For $50.00 I think I will get the updated PRV just to be safe and attempt to prolong the life of the tranny.
 
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