New to me 2000 XJ8. FOBS weren’t working as they should. Cleaned the circuit board (see BEFORE pic) and replaced the ONE 2032 battery with TWO 2016 batteries, in both FOBS.

Went through several of the FOB “pairing” procedures and the one procedure that brought me some TEMPORARY success was the one that recommends the flashing headlights /pressing a FOB button 5 times process.

The problem is that I never get to the point where the RED LED light, on the shifter cover, lights up to confirm that it is communicating with the FOB.
I do hear some random “chirps” in the process, but no LED light.

I’ve tried 4,5,6,7 presses of the FOB but never any LED light.

I’ve tried key in before and after the headlight stalk dance.

I’ve tried doors open, doors closed.

I even stuck my tongue out, like Michael Jordan, to see if that might give me the winning ju ju but, sadly, …. No LED light.

I was able to get the FOBs to at least unlock and lock the doors but within a few starts, the FOBs stop working again.

Any ideas?

(Yes, I have checked fuses related to the Security module).

 

I bought a small container of liquid keypad repair.

Worked on a keyfob transmitter that had failing buttons on a few pads.

I repaired 6 or more transmitters and the container is still full.

Once you have the system in LEARN MODE, you push a button on the transmitter ONCE.
You can configure up to 5 to the car.

 

>> New to me 2000 XJ8. FOBS weren’t working as they should. Cleaned the circuit board (see BEFORE pic) and replaced the ONE 2032 battery with TWO 2016 batteries, in both FOBS.

If I do not completely misunderstand you, you replaced 1 x 2032 battery (3.2mm thick) with 2 x 2016 batteries (1.6mm thick each)?!?
If that is the case: Each 2032 and each 2016 battery does each have 3VDC...
And the last time I checked, 3 + 3 = 6V

And while Automotive Designers did their best to conduct FMEAs and to implement consequent designs preventing damage in case some larrikin attempts to jump-start a Jag with a 24VDC truck battery, I do not believe that they took into account that someone would replace the 3V battery in the remote with a 6V battery, and thus, there is a good chance you fried your PCB of the remote...

 

What identifies LEARN MODE? The Chirp or the LED light?

 

You did not misunderstand me. When I got the car, it had a 2032 battery in it. I replaced it with a new 2032 battery and the fob was unresponsive..

I then installed the two 2016 batteries and I am now able to get a response from the doors.

If I have to get two new key fobs, I will do that, but I am thinking that it has something to do with the security and lock module.

 

The transmitter for his car requires TWO CR2016 3V batteries.
The later transmitters require ONE CR2032 3V battery.

 

My FOB is LJA2610AA and the processor is 201033-1, perhaps yours is another model that only works with (2) 2016's?
Here's an old thread of mine (2) 2016 v (1) 2032 and the discussion Stojanovic and I had regarding it. Maybe it will help with perspective and yes I'm still using the same battery today.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...pgrade-210090/

 

 

Check the numbers on your processor...it appears to be 2010**-* It may mean nothing, but I'm curious. My 2nd one is also 201033-1 and I got them as replacements separately and I wonder if they are all the same chips.
Bob's process to clean the board is probably better, but I used my girlfriends nail polish remover (non-acetone) and a Q-tip. She wasn't overly thrilled I used her stuff on an automotive fix. Be sure to clean the black pad as well, I think I used just soap and water on that to prevent any more chance of breakdown of the rubber.

 

The conductive paste is used on the rubber button pad to get the conductivity back on the pads.

The conductive carbon gets rubbed off and this gets it working again.

 

Wait? What? Are you saying that the black buildup on the circuit board is the conductive paste abs I should have left it on?

 

The conductive material is a DRY hard substance impregnated into the rubber pads.
Cleaning the film from the circuit board is fine but if the buttons cease to operate normally, then the repair paste will get the buttons working again.

 

I've tried the conductive paint but it didn't work for me. The only thing that works is opening everything up, cleaning the board and the rubber pads with electrical contact cleaner and reassembling. My rubber buttons are just about falling apart now from all the cleaning and disassembling. I wish these remotes were still sold for non-ridiculous prices. I just picked up some old Ford remotes from China that look like they have the same housing as well as some microswitches so I'm gonna use my spare fob to do some experiments soon. I'm so tired of always having issues with the fobs. I wouldn't really mind if the alarm didn't go all paranoid and require a key in the ignition within 15 seconds when you use the key to unlock the car.

As for the LED light, it always works for me except when the doors are locked. Doors should be unlocked (open or closed doesn't seem to matter), hold stalk back with key in position 0, turn to 1 with stalk still held back, release stalk then flash 4 times. My beeper is disconnected but the LED works. Your LED might be broken. Remember that to finish the process you have to press a remote button 5 times regardless of how many remotes you're pairing, so if you're only pairing one you press it 5 times to finish the pairing process.

Concerning batteires, I've had both 2032 as well as 1616 working fine. In my fobs it doesn't seem to matter.

 

Yes. I think I have an issue with the security module. My alarm would go off even if I unlocked the door with the KEY and then I’’d have to jump in, insert the key and turn on the car before the alarm would stop.

I discovered that if I used the key FOB to “unlock” the car and THEN used the key, the alarm wouldn’t sound…..

 

I'm afraid that's a feature, not a bug. If you don't use the fob, you have to insert the key to stop the alarm going off. It sucks.