Removing Head on my XJ6 (XJ40)
I am about to remove the head to replace the head gasket.
I am not sure if I should use the intake and exhaust manifold studs to attach to my hydraulic crane/lift. Wouldn't want to bend or break them
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Wayne
I am not sure if I should use the intake and exhaust manifold studs to attach to my hydraulic crane/lift. Wouldn't want to bend or break them
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Wayne
Welcome to the forum Wayne,
I've moved your question from General Tech Help to XJ40 forum and deleted the duplicate thread. Members here with the same model will be able to help.
Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some information about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
I've moved your question from General Tech Help to XJ40 forum and deleted the duplicate thread. Members here with the same model will be able to help.
Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some information about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
The cylinder head is not heavy enough to damage the studs if you attach a plate or chain up against the aluminum.
I have 2 steel plates I use to attach to the intake studs to lift the entire engine.
It lifts with 4 intake studs (2 on each plate). You might want to leave the old intake gasket on the head to protect it from damage to the mating surface.
The intake manifold is then installed when the engine is in place.
For just a cylinder head I pull the intake & exhaust away from the head and secure them with straps or 'bungee-cords'. I then put a chain from one intake stud to one exhaust stud and lift the head away from the block.
I just did this on a 1996 XJR and the engines are basically the same.
I made the engine lift brackets 30 years ago for the AJ6 and AJ16 engines when I worked on them daily.
bob
I have 2 steel plates I use to attach to the intake studs to lift the entire engine.
It lifts with 4 intake studs (2 on each plate). You might want to leave the old intake gasket on the head to protect it from damage to the mating surface.
The intake manifold is then installed when the engine is in place.
For just a cylinder head I pull the intake & exhaust away from the head and secure them with straps or 'bungee-cords'. I then put a chain from one intake stud to one exhaust stud and lift the head away from the block.
I just did this on a 1996 XJR and the engines are basically the same.
I made the engine lift brackets 30 years ago for the AJ6 and AJ16 engines when I worked on them daily.
bob
Hi Wayne,
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.
Bob has told you everything you need to know, but for the sake of those who don't have access to a hoist, I changed my first three XJ40 head gaskets by the following method:
1. Lay a foam pad, folded towels or blanket over the right front fender and power steering fluid reservoir to protect the paint on the fender. Lay a piece of plywood large enough for the cylinder head on top of the pad;
2. Climb up and carefully sit on the middle of the windshield and straddle the engine bay with your legs;
3. With your hands, grasp the head by the intake and exhaust manifold studs and carefully lift it straight up and off the block;
4. Set the head on the piece of plywood to your right;
5. Climb down on the left side of the car;
6. Move the head to your bench.
Cheers,
Don
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.
Bob has told you everything you need to know, but for the sake of those who don't have access to a hoist, I changed my first three XJ40 head gaskets by the following method:
1. Lay a foam pad, folded towels or blanket over the right front fender and power steering fluid reservoir to protect the paint on the fender. Lay a piece of plywood large enough for the cylinder head on top of the pad;
2. Climb up and carefully sit on the middle of the windshield and straddle the engine bay with your legs;
3. With your hands, grasp the head by the intake and exhaust manifold studs and carefully lift it straight up and off the block;
4. Set the head on the piece of plywood to your right;
5. Climb down on the left side of the car;
6. Move the head to your bench.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; Sep 2, 2017 at 09:46 PM.
Two people can safely lift the head but one strong person can do it if you center yourself like Don B.
I'm too old to be without 'hydraulics'.
bob
I'm too old to be without 'hydraulics'.
bob
Last edited by Don B; Aug 31, 2017 at 03:13 PM.
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I should have made it clear that I definitely recommend using a hoist! It's far safer, not only for you and the cylinder head, but for the windshield too!

Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; Sep 2, 2017 at 10:06 PM.
Hey all, Im going to dredge this thread back up because at this point I don't see the need for yet another "head thread" The Moneyfunnel (soon to be renamed "Little miss Stumblepants") seems to have blown the gasket between 4 & 5. I have good compression (160 lbs+) in the other cylinders but Zero in them. I am not seeing any white smoke, but I am not going to embarrass myself driving it on 4 cylinders anyway. My 2 questions for now are these: Is there a better gasket brand to use/ a brand to specifically avoid? and Is it acceptable to re-use the head bolts One time? Thanks!
Head bolts can be re-used twice if they have been off already they will either have been replaced (not necessary) or should have been centre popped to denote that they have been re-used. Has it reached the mandatory 100,00miles when the he’d gaket blows? Mine went a little bit further 
The later HG has been upgraded to improve the oil retention around the front of the head close by the distributor IIRC.

The later HG has been upgraded to improve the oil retention around the front of the head close by the distributor IIRC.
Hi Jerry,
You can download the TSB regarding cylinder head bolt reuse here:
XJ40 Cylinder Head Bolts Reuse
In the intervening years there has been a lot of discussion on this topic. In the original service documentation, Jaguar insisted that AJ6 cylinder head bolts must be replaced every time the head was removed. In 1997, Jaguar issued the first TSB revising the policy to up to two reuses of the head bolts as long as they were not damaged and had not already been center-punched twice. Since, by this time, an unusually large number of AJ6 head gaskets had failed, many of us suspect this was a purely financial decision on the part of the Jaguar accountants, the same ones who had specified the original flawed head gaskets, and that this policy saved Jaguar money but was not necessarily in the best interest of Jaguar owners.
By definition, torque-to-yield bolts are stretched beyond their state of elasticity and undergo plastic deformation. This means that once torqued and removed, the old bolts are longer and weaker than new bolts. So personally, I have always used new head bolts on AJ6 and AJ16 engines. To me, reusing the old ones seems like a false economy.
Cheers,
Don
You can download the TSB regarding cylinder head bolt reuse here:
XJ40 Cylinder Head Bolts Reuse
In the intervening years there has been a lot of discussion on this topic. In the original service documentation, Jaguar insisted that AJ6 cylinder head bolts must be replaced every time the head was removed. In 1997, Jaguar issued the first TSB revising the policy to up to two reuses of the head bolts as long as they were not damaged and had not already been center-punched twice. Since, by this time, an unusually large number of AJ6 head gaskets had failed, many of us suspect this was a purely financial decision on the part of the Jaguar accountants, the same ones who had specified the original flawed head gaskets, and that this policy saved Jaguar money but was not necessarily in the best interest of Jaguar owners.
By definition, torque-to-yield bolts are stretched beyond their state of elasticity and undergo plastic deformation. This means that once torqued and removed, the old bolts are longer and weaker than new bolts. So personally, I have always used new head bolts on AJ6 and AJ16 engines. To me, reusing the old ones seems like a false economy.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; Jun 28, 2018 at 09:54 PM.
Thanks. I have not yet disassembled Anything beyond my various testing. It has just passed 150000 and judging by the overall condition I doubt the motor has ever been apart. I have located- but not bought- a head gasket kit and bolts for a total price just shy of $300 with free shipping. It's a Eurospare brand which I am leaning to because it appears to contain all 24 valve stem seals. I agree with the idea that once stretched, the bolts would not be quite right on re-assembly.
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