Have I screwed up big time, taking my BW 65 gearbox off and not undoing the torque converter first?

I read that this can be a big problem, but maybe (hopefully) only on more modern gearboxes?

It looks like the torque converter should just slip back onto the gearbox. I have not rotated the crank or gearbox so it should be fairly easy to align the two sets of splines and the driving dogs.

Any advice, most welcome!

 

I cannot see any problem unless the gearbox was pulled out at an extreme angle to the converter possibly damaging the seal.

 

The seal looks perfect. The gearbox was aligned with the engine when it was withdrawn.

Apparently there are 'dire warnings' in the Range Rover service manuals about taking the torque converter off of the gearbox, but this would be a different gearbox. The engine is a 4.6l v8 Range Rover engine.

From what I read you're supposed to undo the bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate, while the gearbox and engine are still attached, via the access cover behind the sump, so that the torque converter stays with the gearbox.

Anyway, I'll see if I can get it back onto the gearbox tomorrow!

 

I ALWAYS stand the gearbox on it's 'tail' and lower the torque converter down on the shafts/pump until it all engages.
You can do it 'horizontal' but I like things to align and not fight gravity.

 

If the transmission was slid perfectly straight out, then you'll be fine. The input shaft isn't designed to take sideways load, so there is possibility of damage to the pump or the input shaft bushings if the removal process put the transmission's weight on the input shaft. You can really only tell if there is damage by opening up the transmission and disassembling the pump and inspecting it.

 

Same for me.

I always detach the TC from the flywheelm push it back into the trans, Remove the unit,

Refit the unit, slide the TC back to meet the flywheel, install the bolts.

I was taught that damage to the pump drive spigot, and the bushing was way beyond reason to not undo 6 bolts first and slide it back into the unit.

IF and that would be a HUGE IF, all those alignments have remained as they were, very doubtful in the real world, you are being blessed by the Jaguar Gods. I was never that lucky.

I would be removing that TC, replace the seal of the pump, slide that TC in, and refit the unit as a whole.

 

You are a pessimist Grant! - (but I respect your right to be so)

 

OK, thanks chaps! I was careful to get the gearbox and engine leveled up before seperating them, so fingers crossed!

Lesson learned!

 

HA HA, you been talking to the kids. They call me The Fossil, and still want one of the Jags when I am gone, we will see.

Too many Jags, and trans in and out to take short cuts. The worst was that infamous DG in the S Type when I fitted a BW66, that was a fair mongrel to get out, and gravity did not help one bit.

I see so many that do this and DO NOT replace that seal. REALLY, a $5 seal, and you want to take the trans out next week for that, not in my workplace.

 

Well I stood the gearbox up on end and the TC dropped in. I lubed the seal and shaft beforehand.

The TC does seem to be a little wobbly though. Is that normal?

There's a short video here:

 

Memory, not what it was, but,

YES.

When you slide it forward, once installed, the spigot sits inside the hole in the crankshaft, aligning all the bits.

Bolting in up to the flywheel in sequence, as in 2 rotations of the flywheel until all are evenly tight.
CLOCWISE as viewed from the front ONLY. AKA "normal engine rotation when running".

 

Ah, yes.
When I was a wee lass, maybe about 6 or 7, underfoot in the shop as I usually was, some of the guys were working on one of the big truck engines, and I asked, "How do you know which way it turns?"

There happened to be an antique example just outside, probably one that Noah drove off the Ark, with a funny hole in the front of the grill. One of the Olde Guys pointed that out to me and said, "That hole is for the the crank to start the engine. (I had an idea what that was from watching cartoons) They were Always cranked to the Right, because most men are Right handed and that's the natural way to crank, so the first engines cranked that way. When electric start was added, they also cranked the engine to the right because that's how it was in the beginning and it would be too hard to change."
(';')

 

1/ After installing the LTq in my jaguar and getting the engine to run, more issues. It would not move!!! son and I came to the conclusion that the transmsssion was bad/
We put the car up on stands and begant the process. WOW !!!! tHE TORQUE CONVERTER BOLTS WERE NOT THERE!!! iN THIS CASE, THREE.

oFF TO THE PARTS STORE. GOT A SUITABLE SET.

iNSTALLED, ALL WAS WELL. DROPPED THE CAR AND TOOKA VICTORY LAPP

Apologiy for the caps. SAumpin went astrayl

2. My first car, a 23 T could be started by a hand crank or at times by the electric starter. i usaully hand cranked. Dad showed m how to do that ands not riskl a busted thumb or wrist.

My version was to gently turn the engins sothat the carank was at 6. then ppull up, fast. i have seen others on You tube start with the crank at 12!!!

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Speaking of Torque Converters and such...

(';')