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Cutting access holes forward in the trunk to access rear brakes
I know, I know - this probably sounds ridiculous, but I'd like to put it out there anyway! At 78 years old, I really don't want to remove the entire rear end assembly. But I would like to get my E-brake/Parking brakes to work. Think that might be important someday. So... has anybody ever cut access holes to accomplish that in the forward shelf of the trunk(boot)?
A lot of the "ease of repair" modifications would've been more attractive decades ago when these cars were in regular service and accumulating 12k-15k miles per year.
At the rate most are driven nowadays and, frankly, the age of many of the owners, dropping the cage for a full re-do of everything is very likely to be a once-and-done thing. The work done will probably last as long as both the car and the owner will live
If you look at the layout I'm not sure that holes where you say would do much if anything to help. The parking brake calipers, cable, pipes, and regular calipers are on the front side of the cage. Cutting holes in the boot would give access to the rear side of the cage.
Unless....
Maybe if you cut holes in the flat section of the boot, directly above the cage, you could more easily access the parking brake calipers. Maybe that's what you meant by "shelf".
I don't think cutting holes in the body will help at all. I currently have an E Type rear end apart, I was actually doing the handbrakes today. You will be restricted by access to the calipers by the cage of the IRS. Even with the IRS out on the bench, access to the parking brake is still difficult without partial disassembly of the IRS and removing the cage.
Have you been able to diagnose what is actually wrong with your car? Is it just a matter of adjusting the cable length? Are all 4 of the pads actually there? I have seen cars where a pad has come off and the parking brake will never work then. One of those fibre optic inspection cameras can let you look at the pads
Photo is of an E Type IRS, but the XJ is very similar.
Jagboi64 - Good point! I've tried adjusting the cable to no avail. Will jack up the rear end and scope it out again to see what I can see. But maybe, now that I can see what you are pointing out, I can cut access port by removing back seat and going through the back wall?
I'm presuming that a pad has come off - that's not that uncommon. You can probably see that the easiest from the rear. What you might be able to do is undo the 2 bolts that hold the handbrake calipers to the main caliper body and then roll the disk rearward and take them out the bottom. I've never tried that, I don't know if it's possible.
Other option. Get a hydraulic lift cart. I got one for this job and it makes taking the IRS out so much easier. Just jack the cart up to take the weight of the IRS, undo the bolts and then lower the cart down and roll it out. I had this IRS out of the car in under a hour. I got the cart from Vevor: https://www.vevor.ca/hydraulic-sciss...p_010109142084 I use the Canadian site, you might have to change it to US for pricing for you.
I had a fiddly time aligning the retraction forks today to get the pads returning properly and not dragging on the disk. To be honest, I'm not sure that a proper adjustment could be done with the cage in place and in the car. It takes tweaking the big screw that joins the caliper halves to get the right spacing of the pads. With the diff on the bench as you see in the photos, it took me longer to get the pad spacing correct that it did to take the IRS out of the car. I think trying to get all this aligned, or trying to get the caliper retaining bolts and retraction fork aligned and back in the proper place inside the car would be a nightmare. I had the retraction fork in an out a number of times to get it bent just right so the pads are close to the disk to be able to have proper grip when the cable is pulled, and yet not drag with the brake off.
I R&Rd the rear brakes on my SIII XJ6 from underneath the car. It was doable but a bit tricky and I didn't have as many birthdays behind me as you have which obviously helped.
When I did this I removed the handbrake calliper from the main brake calliper first. My car looked like it had been driven for some distance with the handbrake applied and the whole assembly was full of a candy like deposit, probably burnt grease, so I had to dismantle the whole handbrake assembly and wire brush everything to clean the deposit off, needless to say it didn't work at all before I started but was perfect after I had finished.
As others have mentioned cutting access holes in the trunk/boot floor probably wouldn't help you much as the brake calipers still have to come forwards out through the openings. The workshop manual says to remove the tie plate from te bottom of the cage but this achieves nothing and is not necessary.
Bill,
My 1968 XKE 2+2 had panels behind rear seat back, that I used to get access to parking brake pads and main pads.
On my XJ6 S3 the old guys at XK Unlimited (before it was sold to Moss Motors) put pads in while the car was on a lift... since they couldn't skim the rotors, they offered no warranty.. worked fine and save several hundred of the old dollars.
Maybe a trip to Harbor Freight, you may find a perfect lift for a XJ6 rear end drop. Since there seems to be a reason "every six years to do it.
Rgds
David
The look on his face when he sees those rear brakes If your after directions for easily fixing them ... don't watch the video. He basically looks at them and goes "nope".
On my XJ6 S3 the old guys at XK Unlimited (before it was sold to Moss Motors) put pads in while the car was on a lift..
The main brake pads are easy to do with everything in place, the handbrake is a different matter. If a handbrake pad has broken off the backing plate ( which does happen with repro pads), the handbrake caliper needs to come out of the car to change pads. Then the clearances and travel of the handbrake calipers needs to be set up and adjusted, that's a really hard thing to do in the car.
I know, I know - this probably sounds ridiculous, but I'd like to put it out there anyway! At 78 years old, I really don't want to remove the entire rear end assembly. But I would like to get my E-brake/Parking brakes to work. Think that might be important someday. So... has anybody ever cut access holes to accomplish that in the forward shelf of the trunk(boot)?
When my brakes were last serviced (1985 Series 3) the mechanics cut an access hatch out under the rear seat. I am due to recommission the car so will be looking at the rear brakes shortly - will update as to whether or not this is useful.
Bill, IMHO it will be much easier to drop the rear cage than it will be to try to cut holes in an xke that will result in very little access. Not to mention when you get to the point of removing handbrake calipers through said holes, I think you'll have spent many more hours than if you'd dropped the cage. Also you're gonna find the top diff retaining bolts loose, tied but loose, the lower diff retaining bolts will probably be loose and maybe missing shims etc... Point is, It has many years on it and is probably asking you for some much needed attention all 'round on the rear cage. One but maybe two hours will drop it, and you'll be glad you could take care of all the other stuff needing service. It looks more daunting than it is, worst part is getting the exhaust out of the way, the xke is much easier in that respect with the pipes running underneath. ,,,and you won't have to look back one day and think I wish I hadn't cut those holes.
Also, when you get the e-brake calipers out they are really an interesting exercise in british engineering. Will need to be cleaned thoroughly of all hardened grease that keeps them from working properly but rarely find anything worn to the point of needing replacement. The brass tension fingers do break and are easily replaced.
A lot of the "ease of repair" modifications would've been more attractive decades ago when these cars were in regular service and accumulating 12k-15k miles per year.
At the rate most are driven nowadays and, frankly, the age of many of the owners, dropping the cage for a full re-do of everything is very likely to be a once-and-done thing. The work done will probably last as long as both the car and the owner will live
Also while the cage is out it's probably a good idea to change the front driveshaft u-joint, as the cage has to come out to get the driveshaft out. I think it would be a must do... Rear tail shaft housing seal too.
Thank you ALL for your input. I'll NOT be cutting holes; you've convinced me. So... removing the rear end assembly is on my long term (bottom) of my To-Do list for now. Until I'm forced into it.
Thank you ALL for your input. I'll NOT be cutting holes; you've convinced me. So... removing the rear end assembly is on my long term (bottom) of my To-Do list for now. Until I'm forced into it.
Bill
Bill, when you do have to do it and you are working on the ground, get a hydraulic motorcycle jack. The kind with two parallel arms and roll around wheels. It will prove invaluable lowering and reinstalling the IRS as well as a handy workbench. New they're under $150 but you might find one on Craigslist for about $100.
Cutting access holes forward in the trunk to access rear brakes
If your after directions for easily fixing them ... don't watch the video. He basically looks at them and goes "nope".
