Hey gang

doing a break job on 2013 Jaguar XKR. Front brakes/rotors were a cinch to remove and install. Now the rears is a different story, just so you know this is the procedure I’m following, found here on JF:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk-xkr-x150-33/rear-brake-kit-replacement-251732/

BUT still no luck, seems it’s impossible to retract caliper w/ the tool.After further research I found on a couple of threads/posts; some recommend disconnecting the battery after putting the car in neutral. 🤷‍♂️

anyway is there any particular method that you have successfully used in replacing the rear brakes and rotors? Anyone??

thank you so much and advance and a happy new year to all

 

Yes there is...
Drive the car.
Park the car.
DO NOT ENGAGE THE PARKING BRAKE.
Place the shifter into Park.
Shut off the engine.
Swap the rotors.
There is supposedly a particular "Service Position", but that position is congruent with "Brake Not Applied".

 

are you using a right hand caliper retractor tool with the right adapter

 

Holee Shyte, I'm a moron
Guess I didn't read that original post for ****. I was focused on the E-Brake and not the caliper pistons.
Sorry, man. I'm old and senile.
What xalty said...
You have to get the right tool and rotate the pistons into the caliper.

 

When I did mine and the rears on my wife's '16 XJL, I didn't disconnect the ebrake cable. I tried to, got tired of screwing with it and just said FIGO. It was a bit of a pain getting the calipers off the rotors due to the ridge but I was doing pads and rotors anyway, so I wasn't concerned about damaging the pads. Here's the tool I used both times without issue.


Other than that, no idea what the problem you're having is.

*edit- You got the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and pulled some fluid out, right? Otherwise, you can crank on those pistons all day and the only way they'll retract is when they blow the cap off the reservoir.

 

Didn’t need to do that when I did mine. Just cranked the pistons back in with a tool like you referenced.

 

I was assuming he has been doing his monthly fluid checks and added brake fluid accordingly as the pads wore. Of course, if you ignore the drop in level, you won't need to remove fluid from the reservoir when new pads are installed.

 

I had a siezed caliper on my Passat once, which wouldn't retract. Another time I was doing a brake pad replacement and brake fluid change at the same time, and inadvertently had the power bleeder pressurized when I was trying to retract the caliper. That didn't work too well either.