Hi guys,

Just curious on how easy or hard it is to remove the rear callipers. I have driven it and the rear brakes had lock up/ on. I'm guessing that the brake pistons have seized for some reason. When I try to take out the pads I can't do it because it is locked on -(also difficult to turn rear wheels). Whilst this has accrued I have bled all 4 brakes, and flushed system. Though this doesn't solve the problem.

Any replies.
Thanks

 

Hi 85XJ6JAG,How about an introduction please,link below

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...-intro-must-5/

 

It's a fair bit of work. A full weekend for most DIYers.

The caliper bolts are difficult to deal with (as are the hanbrake calipers) so most find that dropping the entire rear suspension assembly is, overall, the easiest way to do the job.....as opposed to working *under the car* for hours.

Replace the rotors/discs at the same time. Unless, of course, you have reason to believe you shouldn't. Replacing the rotors requires that the rear suspension arms be allowed to drop wayyyyy down for clearance. This means having the car elevated quite high....higher than most would be comfortable with. This is another good rgument for removing the rear suspension assembly.



Cheers
DD

 

I totally agree wit Doug,these can be done without removing IRS. but I personally would not want to do more than remove handbrake calipers without the the right shop equipment.

 

Yes and no. a decade or so, I'd a tried it in situ. or even dropping the IRS.


Well, a PO had the resonators and tips installed by welding. I could overcome that with my Sawzall and oxy acetylene welder. But, age and up/down was an issue.


So, I tried a mobile tech. He quoted a price and I agreed. then on the day, he backed out. But, found a new shop willing to do the task for the quoted price.


Sorta OK. But, hand brake not so good.


So, compare facility and ability and decide.


At a minimum., I have functional rear brake calipers. hand brake issue to be determined.


Carl

 

I tried in situ and gave up, dropping the back end was easy, i replaced the rotors and pads, rebuilt the calipers with new pistons and seals and new pads for the handbrake calipers[first time jag owner and did it on my own-took a bit of juggling with two jacks to get the assembly back in[replace the rubber mounts and trailing arm bushes at the same time]]
Richard

 

Thanks, I was meant to mention, is it hard to take out rear end. Where can I find information of taking it out. Service books/ Manuals don't tells me where all the bolts are and what I need to take off.
(I have had to many thoughts of selling this jag).
Regards.

 

Well, before deciding not to try to do the rear calipers in my XJ wuzza six, I did study the way to drop the IRS and to do the caliper exchange in situ.


Doug lays out the "drop the IRS" path quite well. My contribution is to the items to disconnect as follows:


1. Drive shaft flange. Whitworth 'special" fasteners. don't lose them!
2. Hydraulic brake flex line. good time to replace it.
3. Hand brake cable.
4. Exhaust. Muffler and resonator disconnect. The through the cage pipes are the tricky part.
5. Radius arms at the chassis. Some are rusty, all are highly stressed. Beware. Good idea to replace with fresh bolts and insulators.


As to freeing stuck caliper pistons. I'ds start by not only bleeding, but leaving the bleed screw pen or even opening the flex line to relieve any residual hydraulic pressure. The largish "'retired" slot screw drivers to apply lots of pry force. The resistance is in corroded piston to rotor ways. And the travel ways in the calipers for the paths. Oh, remove the pad retention pins. They are likely corroded as well.


This braking system is an engineering marvel, but it lives in a harsh environment.


Good luck and perserverence usually carries the day.


Carl

 

I have just finished this job and dropping the IRS was a lot easier than i thought, i would say that having a motorcycle jack made the job MUCH easier than a std floor jack as it has a much larger surface area for the IRS to sit on when you drop it out. I left the "up and over" exhaust pipes in place inside the IRS and just removed rear silencers and the section from the downpipes back, you will i am sure run into a problem with the front radius arm bushings as these tend to be stuck fast so i just removed the rear bolt and left the radius arms connected to the car.

Have fun!!! Very satisfying job to complete

 

Dropping IRS is a straight forward job,just fiddly on your own. Its all the stuff inside that needs replacing causes to headaches. Shock bushes,rebuild calipers, rebuild diff 'unis's,rebuild handbrake calipers,replace all rubber and seal on every component. .
Although all my bits were burnt or melted,adds to a PITA job.

 

Thank you for posting the pictures!!!

I read earlier that some bolts are subject to severe stress. Is it the inner long bolts on the controlarms that "JagCad" was talking about? If thats the same as radius arms...

Also which rubbers/bushings can cause the car to "wobble" when accellerating?

I will try to copy your workand use your pictures as template!

 

There are plenty more pics of various stages in the following thread.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-115245/page6/