XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Series 2 bonnet insulation

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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 06:50 AM
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Default Series 2 bonnet insulation

Hi, I am looking for some pictures/information of original bonnet insulation pads and fitting on a series 2.
The one on my car has gone missing a long time ago and i would like to refit it.
I can't see any studs on the inside of my bonnet to attach it to though, which i would have expected.

Aftermarket insulation pads have to be glued on, i do not consider that an option for originallity sake.

Also i am looking for the strap to hold the toolroll in place in the boot.which it seems is no longer available. any ideas where to get one of those?

many thanks for your help in advance.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 09:00 AM
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the Series 3 has a channel on either side where the insulation is inserted and held in place.

At the center, there are 3 welded pins where the insulation is pierced through and 3 round clips are pushed over the pins to hold it from sagging.

No glue. It needs to be removable / replaceable.

Reproductions of this insulation are too thin, less than a quarter inch, very flimsy.

It should be at least half inch thick.

I have found the heat and noise insulation pads found in commercial Air Conditioning Handlers to be large enough to be cut to fit. They also have a nice black coating on one side that is suitable for the XJ.
That is what I did in my car. I did my own.

The strap for the jack bag in the Series 3 might be the same for the Series 2 tool roll.
After all, the Series 3 jack bag strap is almost identical to the jack strap in my 1965 S type. So if A equals C, B must equal A and C. Something like that.

Contact David at www.everydayxj.com for a strap.


 

Last edited by Jose; Jan 10, 2021 at 09:07 AM.
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 11:50 AM
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Thank you for your response, I do indeed have the channels on the side, but no studs on the centre of the bonnet. Also there are no studs to fix the smaller upper insulation pad or holes to fit the triangle that holds this smaller insulation pad in its posiiton.

The inside of the bonnet has never had a respray. it wears its original silver body colour with some sort of white coating over it. Though I'm not sure the coating is original.
Having done some more research it seems not all series 2 cars were delivered from new with bonnet insulation, Instead some appear to have received some sort of heat resisitant finish.

This is a very original car build in may 1978 (registered may 1979) and in our ownership since 1985, bought from the first owner, currently just over 100k km and all matching numbers etc.

Regarding the boot straps, I do have the buckels, but would like to obtain the original strap material.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 12:58 PM
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Mine looked like a "moth eaten bear rug". I removed it. it did have the pins and retainers that Jose described.

Mine remains bare. I tried to polish and wax it so that it would look like the pristine underside of the boot lid. Utter failure.

Next plan was to use bed spray on it. never done., Not likely any more

It is fine as it is...

Carli
 
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 01:57 PM
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Carl
the insulation helps with deadening engine noise, eliminating the resonances of such a large bonnet, AND also helps to keep the bonnet surface cool, eliminating paint checking / cracking due to engine heat.

I tried mine without the insulation and it made a big difference in noise and bonnet surface temperature without it.

Have you noticed the Vanden Plas models also have Insulation inside the boot lid? It is there to silence any resonances.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 02:28 PM
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if your car has the side channels but does not have the center pins or clips, you can spray a stripe of 3M adhesive on both the insulation and bonnet at the center so it will stay in place at the center. Or you can use a stripe of double-sided Gorilla Mounting Tape exactly placed vertically at the center of the bonnet.

Either way with pins or not, the center area has to be clipped in place or adhered in place FIRST, because the inside of the bonnet is higher at the center and lower at the side channels.
(concave or convex ? ). So when measuring for the insulation, you need to acount in advance for this "pyramidal" final position of the insulation.

If you don't and just measure channel to channel, when the insulation is pressed into place at the center, it will come out of the channels, being shorter than needed. Ask me how I know.

The way I found out it needed to be measured, is from a center point to the channel on each side, at the top and at the bottom because it is a "V" shape cut, then add the width measurements for the top area and for the bottom area. These measurements end up being about half inch wider than measuring side to side.


 
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Aston
Hi, I am looking for some pictures/information of original bonnet insulation pads and fitting on a series 2.
The one on my car has gone missing a long time ago and i would like to refit it.
I can't see any studs on the inside of my bonnet to attach it to though, which i would have expected.

Aftermarket insulation pads have to be glued on, i do not consider that an option for originallity sake.

Also i am looking for the strap to hold the toolroll in place in the boot.which it seems is no longer available. any ideas where to get one of those?

many thanks for your help in advance.
I went to www.Detroitmuscletechnologies.com
found this, 1/2” mat


The round fasteners are at the business listed in the previous post. And be cautious of gluing or double-sided tape, with the increased heat and humidity in the engine compartment, the weight of the mat could loosen and meet the fan blade, it won’t be ‘puurty’. Maybe JB-Weld or use high temp epoxy to adhere the head of the proper diameter construction nail(trim the length)then attach the round fasteners. A thought.
 

Last edited by Tonytonem; Jan 20, 2021 at 11:55 AM. Reason: Spelling.
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Old Jan 20, 2021 | 04:40 AM
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try to get a sample of the material.

the round clips won't be needed because there are no pins.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2021 | 06:44 PM
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This a late entry to this thread, but I just installed an insulating pad from DetroitMuscletechnologies.com and I'm very pleased with it. Durable face with coarse bonnet side. The shipping cost me more than the product, the perks of not living in the United States. Couple of pics.

Dave

Cleaned up a bit.

Ready to install.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2021 | 08:35 PM
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Dave, what do the clips down the center stick into?
Is it a separate attachment rail in the inside of the hood? My car, Series 2 like the OP has, has no such attachment points.
(';')
 
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Old Oct 30, 2021 | 09:44 PM
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Yes, you can see the center strip in the first pic, just a thin, stiffened runner with those three studs that poke through the mat and have large "push washers" over the studs. The center runner is not attached to the bonnet except on each end. The edges of the mat are held in place by the channels on either side of the bonnet. If the Series 2's don't have this center runner I can't see how the mat would be held in place. This one is not stiff enough to span the bonnet without mid support. Maybe the Series 2 has a mat of different material.

Dave
 
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Old Oct 31, 2021 | 08:34 AM
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hopefully you didn't glue it, since the factory never glued them, just like the factory never welded exhaust parts.

I am familiar with this business, the material they sell seems to be the best solution for the XJ, although like you, the shipping cost discouraged me from ordering. Michigan to Florida was more for shipping than the material cost.

I ended going to a residential air conditioner supply house and they let me pull the insulation panels from a used air handler box they had in the back. The panel has R9 insulation and a hard black front facing the engine. My car has the 3 pins at the center to slide 3 double washers ( one plastic, one metal ) onto the pins.

if your car does not have the 3 pins to hold the insulation at the center, use a length of Gorilla Double Sided Mounting Tape at the center. It will hold it in place.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2021 | 10:11 AM
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There is No evidence that an insulation mat was ever on the under side of Nix's hood, except for a ledge on the aft end across the width. In fact, someone in the past has sprayed undercoating on the under side of the whole hood.

As the car has lived it's life till now with no under hood insulation, I think I'll ditch that idea again.
(';')
 
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Old Oct 31, 2021 | 10:50 AM
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Elinor lack of evidence is most likely because the insulation was never glued. Someone got tired of it collapsing and sprayed undercoating or truck bed coating.

the problem with gluing underhood insulation is that when it becomes brittle and starts falling apart, it leaves a lot of glue and material evidence. And some glues can be corrosive too.

the underhood insulation is more for sound deadening than for heat.

the ideal thickness is 1/4" inch. Most materials available are 1/2" thick.

 
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Old Oct 31, 2021 | 11:14 AM
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Well that settles it then!

I *Want* people to hear the engine with its lopey cam. Nothing too wild mind you, not like my dad used to say, "It lifts one hind leg and then the other at a stop light."

No insulation it is!
(';')
 
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Old Oct 31, 2021 | 11:50 AM
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Jose, no I didn't glue the mat anywhere, the center strip does an excellent job of holding the middle.

Elinor, I think your final decision is a good one, there's something to be said for hearing a good running engine. I have to admit, as old as I am, I've never heard the descriptive saying of your Dad. Probably someone with a lumpy cam would be the only one to get it.

Dave
 
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Old Oct 31, 2021 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by LT1 jaguar
Jose, no I didn't glue the mat anywhere, the center strip does an excellent job of holding the middle. Dave
Dave
excellent, you will be thankful later when you have to remove it.
how did you like all the plugs? Never heard a word.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2021 | 07:15 PM
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They are still sitting in my "to do box". Since I've got another full winter to finish the car, I'm taking my time. Maybe the Son and Daughter-in-law will help me with the bonnet tomorrow, then on to repositioning the drivers seat as needed. New upholstery after that, then buffing the finish and then the plugs. That's the plan anyway. I don't see any issues with them what so ever.

Dave
 
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