Transmission does not want to shift
#1
Transmission does not want to shift
Every morning when the XJ first drives, the automatic transmission does not want to shift for about a mile. Then it will shift with a little stutter into 2nd and as the speed builds again into top gear.
After that there is no problem for the rest of the day.
Has any one else had this issue and what would be the fix?
I have checked the fluid and it was a little low, so I added (Dextron 3 equivalent from Napa) fluid, so I know that is not the problem.
It has always done this, since we had it.
I hope this is not going to be too expensive.
After that there is no problem for the rest of the day.
Has any one else had this issue and what would be the fix?
I have checked the fluid and it was a little low, so I added (Dextron 3 equivalent from Napa) fluid, so I know that is not the problem.
It has always done this, since we had it.
I hope this is not going to be too expensive.
#2
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
Posts: 6,796
Received 2,399 Likes
on
1,880 Posts
Morning sickness!!!!
My IHC got it. MOPAR transmissioned. I removed the pan and changed the filter. Flushed the transmission filter clouded with a goopy stuff. Worked fine til mucvh later, the seals started to go...
My Jeep did something like that this winter. I found that getting under way in D2 worked fine. Then, after a bit, drop into D and all was well.
I feel a get under job coming up!!!
Carl
My IHC got it. MOPAR transmissioned. I removed the pan and changed the filter. Flushed the transmission filter clouded with a goopy stuff. Worked fine til mucvh later, the seals started to go...
My Jeep did something like that this winter. I found that getting under way in D2 worked fine. Then, after a bit, drop into D and all was well.
I feel a get under job coming up!!!
Carl
The following users liked this post:
jpipe (07-19-2015)
#4
I would drop the oil and refill with fresh.
The BW66 is prone to sludging the valve body if the oil is stale, and nearly ALL are stale.
After about a week, do it again, and so on until you get to about drop and refill #5, and that will have the total fluid freshness in the 90% area, and the trans should get better with each drop/refill.
The filter inside is a metal mesh style and will require no intervention at this time.
Once the #5 is all done, then next time drop the pan, wash that filter, and refit with new gaskets, and refill for the last time. Then drop and refill the fluid every 12 months for trouble free running
Some of them I have had to remove the valve body and strip and physically scrub the valve ports to return the trans to the desired operation.
The BW66 is prone to sludging the valve body if the oil is stale, and nearly ALL are stale.
After about a week, do it again, and so on until you get to about drop and refill #5, and that will have the total fluid freshness in the 90% area, and the trans should get better with each drop/refill.
The filter inside is a metal mesh style and will require no intervention at this time.
Once the #5 is all done, then next time drop the pan, wash that filter, and refit with new gaskets, and refill for the last time. Then drop and refill the fluid every 12 months for trouble free running
Some of them I have had to remove the valve body and strip and physically scrub the valve ports to return the trans to the desired operation.
#5
The following users liked this post:
Grant Francis (07-19-2015)
#6
I can't remember if the problem I used to fix for this was the governor in the tailshaft housing. I remember I used to pull the propshaft and the housing to remove the governor for cleaning. The valve inside would stick and need to be cleaned with solvent and re-installed. I think the sticky gov would keep it too long in gear or not shift until warm??
30 years ago is a looooong time and I don't work on these everyday like I did then.
bob gauff
30 years ago is a looooong time and I don't work on these everyday like I did then.
bob gauff
#7
I would drop the oil and refill with fresh.
The BW66 is prone to sludging the valve body if the oil is stale, and nearly ALL are stale.
After about a week, do it again, and so on until you get to about drop and refill #5, and that will have the total fluid freshness in the 90% area, and the trans should get better with each drop/refill.
Once the #5 is all done, then next time drop the pan, wash that filter, and refit with new gaskets, and refill for the last time. Then drop and refill the fluid every 12 months for trouble free running
The BW66 is prone to sludging the valve body if the oil is stale, and nearly ALL are stale.
After about a week, do it again, and so on until you get to about drop and refill #5, and that will have the total fluid freshness in the 90% area, and the trans should get better with each drop/refill.
Once the #5 is all done, then next time drop the pan, wash that filter, and refit with new gaskets, and refill for the last time. Then drop and refill the fluid every 12 months for trouble free running
Thanks, Paul
Trending Topics
#8
#9
YEP.
Undo that union nut, let gravity do what it is so good at doing.
Have a beer or 3, do something else, let it drain about 1 hour. Raise the RH rear of the car a bit to "flow" the fluid to that point, if you are real fussy, I am not, but its your car.
Retighten that nut, and DO NOT be silly with tightening that nut, it is only a flare on a pipe, so just NIP IT UP. Too tight and you will crack the flare on the dipstick tube, which you do not need.
Undo that union nut, let gravity do what it is so good at doing.
Have a beer or 3, do something else, let it drain about 1 hour. Raise the RH rear of the car a bit to "flow" the fluid to that point, if you are real fussy, I am not, but its your car.
Retighten that nut, and DO NOT be silly with tightening that nut, it is only a flare on a pipe, so just NIP IT UP. Too tight and you will crack the flare on the dipstick tube, which you do not need.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 07-20-2015 at 08:42 PM.
The following users liked this post:
XJ6Paul (07-21-2015)
#10
#11
Your car is what is known as an X305 (X300V12) in Jaguar talk, and waaaaaay too modern for the XJ's in here.
It would be very wise to repost in that section, and the guys in there will sort it for you.
#12
Finally
Finally , I drained the transmission fluid.
I actually pumped it out by dropping a tube down the filler pipe. No Mess.
Couple of questions:
What transmission is installed in this 87 XJ6?
How can I tell?
Is it ok to run the engine (not drive) with little or no transmission fluid?
I checked the transmission fluid before I drained it ( the car has been sitting for a couple of weeks ) and it showed over full. Is this expected?
Only about 3/4 gallon drained out, he book says 2 gal capacity, Is this ok?
I have not taken it for a test drive yet.
Thanks for your previous help.
I actually pumped it out by dropping a tube down the filler pipe. No Mess.
Couple of questions:
What transmission is installed in this 87 XJ6?
How can I tell?
Is it ok to run the engine (not drive) with little or no transmission fluid?
I checked the transmission fluid before I drained it ( the car has been sitting for a couple of weeks ) and it showed over full. Is this expected?
Only about 3/4 gallon drained out, he book says 2 gal capacity, Is this ok?
I have not taken it for a test drive yet.
Thanks for your previous help.
#13
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,747
Received 10,757 Likes
on
7,101 Posts
Borg Warner Model 66
Is it ok to run the engine (not drive) with little or no transmission fluid?
Hmmmm. I wouldn't
I checked the transmission fluid before I drained it ( the car has been sitting for a couple of weeks ) and it showed over full. Is this expected?
If someone over-filled it, yes
Actually, if the car has been sitting un-used for a few days the dipstick might show overfull as more and more fluid has migrated to the pan. That's normal.
Fluid level is properly checked with the engine running and the fluid hot
Only about 3/4 gallon drained out, he book says 2 gal capacity, Is this ok?
The majority of the trans fluid stays in the torque converter.
Some converters have a drain plug (can't remember if the BW66 does) so they can be drained. Someone will chime it on that. Otherwise you'll have to repeat the drain-refill process ...with a short drive between each.... several times to really get all the old oil out.
Drain three quarts, add 3 quarts of fresh fluid, drive car a mile. Repeat, repeat, repeat.
Cheers
DD
#14
#15
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,747
Received 10,757 Likes
on
7,101 Posts
Type F or Type FA comes closest to the original specification. Others use Dexron III with good results.
I just put in a premium ATF. Will that be alright?
Probably, but there should be 'something' on the bottle mentioning what type it is. Or it might be a 'multi-car' type....which is a sort of generic formulation that works ....supposedly....in just about any older car
Cheers
DD
#16
Test drive
Went to get gas (in both tanks, which was a first as have been having problems with switching tanks and stalling). Came home and topped up with transmission fluid.
I used Dextron III.
The transmission still did not shift out of first for about half a mile and then everything was ok.
Thanks for your guidance.
I used Dextron III.
The transmission still did not shift out of first for about half a mile and then everything was ok.
Thanks for your guidance.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
aholbro1
XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 )
17
08-05-2021 05:02 AM
Will P
XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 )
62
09-19-2018 08:36 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)