Hi everyone, after purchasing my 95 xjs 2+2 (4.0 AJ16- 82K) in August, and coming through the hectic work period up to christmas, I am about to start some basic maintenance, hopefully this week.
I intend to change the oil & filter, then I am going to start on removing the water pump, it is a little noisy.
While I am doing this I assume it would be wise to change the thermostat, anti freeze, belts and possibly the top and bottom rad hoses and presumably the bypass hose? I haven't had any problems but I am doing this for preventative measures. Any tips on doing the water pump removal? anything else I should do while I am in there, or, things i should be on the look out for?
All advice/feedback and any experiences will be greatly appreciated.

N.B.
After purchasing the vehicle and joining this forum some months ago, I have been a daily follower of all the posts and have been amazed at all the knowledge and enthusiasm shown for this wonderful make of car. Long may it continue.

 

As well as your list, which is excellent, just in case you do not know, there is a hidden hose under the inlet manifold that comes off the back of the water pump. No. 3 in this diagram, part number EAC 3454. This is often overlooked and MUST be changed, or one day, you will be accelerating past something and the hose will let go and the car will transform itself into the Queen Mary at full steam ahead! same hose on your AJ16.



Water Rail and Heater Hose-3.6 Litre - Parts For XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736 | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK


Greg

 

gmacaz,

Although it's a worth sentiment to replace the hoses, do bear in mind that the bottom hose on an AJ16 XJS is a complex and expensive item (£130 in UK!). It's also not fitted to any other car so there are very few after-market suppliers of the hose (none in the UK at all!).

In my experience, they very rarely, if ever, let go, so you might decide to leave well alone. Just check the connection at the thermostat housing for any slight weeping.

Good luck

Paul

 

Is there a way to change that hose out without removing the inlet manifold? If not, then add replacing inlet manifold gaskets to the list. My gaskets went, and while I was in there, I took advantage of the opportunity to replace this simple hose.


If you're not heading in there, I'd leave well enough alone. This 19 year old hose (did the work last year on my 96) still seemed like it was in excellent condition. I don't regret changing it, but it was clear that the hose had plenty of life left in it!

 

The hose is easily changed with the manifold in place. As far as not changing it is concerned, you have been warned! This is a known weak spot...
Greg

 

If Greg says to change it, then I would change it

 

Hi everyone, and especially Greg.
I will change the hose under the manifold as a while you are in there job, makes sense to me. Also looking at the bottom radiator hose on the vehicle (looks like a bagpipe to me), on the SNG barret web site here in the US it is approx $50, so if that is correct then that seems like a no brainer.
This is the reason that I asked for any advice up front, thanks to all for the replies.

 

The lower radiator hose p/n MHE4510AB can be purchased from Rock Auto for $42.79 A/M URO brand. I'm replacing one of these now after 7 years and 75,000 miles. The water pump is not difficult to remove - three 13mm bolts (one top one right side one bottom).
THE BEST WAY to remove the WP is to remove the radiator, not difficult less than a half hour. Then remove the WP. Now to change it you will need to buy, rent, beg or steal the tool to lock the fan clutch nuts. The tool can be purchased at NAPA for about $22.00. Pull the fan clutch and you then separate the WP halves - 10mm cap screws.

The best most effective and easiest way to replace the "******* hose" (hose from WP to water rail) is to remove the intake manifold. This is not difficult nor even time consuming. You'll need the hose (Rockauto about $7.00) a new intake manifold gasket, two water rail gaskets (EAC9745), and an NBC3184AA cartridge assembly. The most PIA part of manifold removal is undoing the clips that hold the connectors to the knock sensors. Patience a pick and a small screw driver will get it done.
Do it this way and you will have a first class job.

 

As Greg says, you don't need to remove the inlet manifold. If you feel it is tough during the replacement, it will be much easier to remove the thermostat housing than to remove the inlet manifold. Then there will be enough space. Cutting the old hose with a knife will help when removing it.
In that case, you don't have to buy a new gasket. Just buying a sheet of gasket sheet and transfer the shape of opening of the thermostat housing will do.

 

Hi again everyone, removed the water pump yesterday morning, not the worst job by any means but fiddly. Was very careful taking the radiator out, at the replacement price I did not want to damage it. All the pipes around the pump were "weeping" so they will all be replaced along with a new thermostat. I did manage to remove the pipe under the inlet manifold without removing the manifold, a little bit tricky but doable. Looks as though I will be going to the Napa store next week to get this fan clutch puller, hope it is not to difficult?

Found a black wire about 10 inches long coming from one of the terminals on the temp transmitter not connected to anything, any ideas before I investigate it further when I put it back together, haven't even checked if it is live.

Once again thanks for all the help & advice, it is really appreciated.

I will check back in with a progress report once all the parts are ordered and have arrived, hopefully in the next week or two.
Happy motoring to all.