XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Marelli distributor

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Old 07-04-2018, 06:33 PM
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Default Marelli distributor

Evening all. I have made a schoolboy error regarding the distributor on my 5.3 89 marelli car. I removed the distributor without any timing up thinking it would drop back in where it came from. I'm not sure it has gone back in the same place it came out of even though I didn't turn the engine at all. Can anyone tell me how I can now make sure it is in the exact correct place? Many thanks for much needed assistance with this.
 
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Old 07-04-2018, 06:49 PM
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Offhand I don't think there's any choice but to get cylinder 1A on TDC compression stroke and refit the distributor with the appropriate rotor arm pointing to 1A on the distributor cap.

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 07-04-2018, 06:59 PM
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Stolen from Roger Bywaters website
 
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Old 07-04-2018, 07:16 PM
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Ok . But how will I know when 1a is at tdc on compression stroke?
 
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Old 07-04-2018, 09:25 PM
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TDC is marked on the timing marks on the front damper. Remove the spark plug and stick your finger in the hole as an assistant rolls the engine over. On compression stroke it will want to push your finger out of the spark plug hole.

Socket size for the crank damper bolt to turn the engine is 1-5/16"
 
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Old 07-04-2018, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by brinny
Evening all. I have made a schoolboy error regarding the distributor on my 5.3 89 marelli car. I removed the distributor without any timing up thinking it would drop back in where it came from. I'm not sure it has gone back in the same place it came out of even though I didn't turn the engine at all. Can anyone tell me how I can now make sure it is in the exact correct place? Many thanks for much needed assistance with this.
The distributor will drop in where it came from, the question is where was the rotor when you removed it? Did you happen to take any photos or have a recollection of where the rotor pointed? Usually the gear's teeth are spaced far enough apart it's often obvious as the distributor shaft drops in if the rotor is in the correct spot or not. The teeth are somewhat spiralled too, so the rotor will move as you drop in the distributor body, so it may take a few tries to get the rotor in the right spot, often starting with the rotor further back than you think it should be to end up in the right pace.
 
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Old 07-04-2018, 09:49 PM
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Remove the bolts on pulley extensions on the front. In the harmonic balancer you'll find a line. This will align with the sensor's bracket underneath. Then check to see if 1A is in the correct position. Refit the dizzy, align the making on the dizzy and you're ready to go.
 

Last edited by Daim; 07-04-2018 at 10:11 PM.
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Old 07-05-2018, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Daim
Remove the bolts on pulley extensions on the front. In the harmonic balancer you'll find a line. This will align with the sensor's bracket underneath. Then check to see if 1A is in the correct position. Refit the dizzy, align the making on the dizzy and you're ready to go.
Daim
Will this distinguish between TDC on the exhaust stroke and TDc on the compression stroke?
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
Daim
Will this distinguish between TDC on the exhaust stroke and TDc on the compression stroke?
No, but on the Marelli the 3 tooth wheel only lines up with the VR sensor for TDC (actually just before TDC) on the A bank, so lining up the TDC mark on the damper and a tooth on the reluctor you should be TDC on 1A. I would still pull a plug and double check.
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by warrjon
No, but on the Marelli the 3 tooth wheel only lines up with the VR sensor for TDC (actually just before TDC) on the A bank, so lining up the TDC mark on the damper and a tooth on the reluctor you should be TDC on 1A. I would still pull a plug and double check.
Yep. Double check is better than later on having it fire at the wrong moment.
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 08:38 AM
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Firstly thank you all for your assistance. I should say that the car has been running ok since I did this a few months back. The car has not been driven though and run for no more than half an hour. We didn’t turn the engine when it was removed and replaced it exactly as it looked in the photos I took prior to removal. Is it possible I just misaligned the cap when replacing it which caused the rotor to clash with the posts? It only marked the bottom set also.?
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by brinny
Firstly thank you all for your assistance. I should say that the car has been running ok since I did this a few months back. The car has not been driven though and run for no more than half an hour. We didn’t turn the engine when it was removed and replaced it exactly as it looked in the photos I took prior to removal. Is it possible I just misaligned the cap when replacing it which caused the rotor to clash with the posts? It only marked the bottom set also.?
Very possible!
 
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