i recently purchased a 1993 jaguar xjs convertible if you would like to read the story of getting it and see some pictures you can read my introduction thread

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...uction-112397/

a few issues i need to get worked out

seats:

my forward and back adjustments on both the driver and passenger sides don't work it feels like one side trys to move and the other is catching being both seats have the same issue i assume its probably a common problem although i didn't come up with anything searching threw the forums.

next seat issue is they are not in the best of shape witch is hidden by some really lame seat covers. theirs a lot of wear on the leather and some tears. has anyone used these to re cover there seats and if so how do you like them

New Jaguar XJS Coupe or Convertible Leatherette Seat Covers 1989 1996 | eBay

now for my next issue

the cruse control is not working so far i have tested the switches and they appear to be good and the fueses are good. but the cruse control will not set. looking over everything under the hood everything apears to be in tact and nothing obviously wrong. there is one spot on the vacuum control on the bottom side that does not have a hose connected to it i am unsure if this is suppose to be a place for the modual to vent or if there is suppose to be a hose there. if there is suppose to be a hose there where is it suppose to be routed to.

next issue has to do with the bulb failure indicator

bulb failure light comes on any time you press the breaks or have the parking lights or headlights on cannot find any bulbs that are not working.

(found the edit button thanks)
and one more issue. if i could find the edit button i would include it in my original post...lol any time you try to select full heat weather the temp control is in auto or manual mode in manual mode full heat on the temp dial or auto mode when the inside of the car is still warming up there is a repeating clicking sound behind the dash about every 2 seconds or so. if you put it in manual and back the temp down one click on the dial it stops or in auto mode once the interior temp rises it stops.

 

thank you in advance for your reply's.

 

1.There may be extra resistance if parts of the seat are dirty and lack lubrication

2. I don't think many people have purchased those. Personally If i am already going to shell out 500 dollars Id be willing to shell out closer to 1000 to put REAL seats in the car. I would never recover a jag seat in vinyl leatherette

3. Im assuming the facelift cars use a similar system to the older ones. It is vacuum operated and if you are missing a hose it needs to be connected to work. More worryingly if there is a disconnected hose, that hose is sucking unfiltered air into the engine and causing wear.

4. Have someone help you, if the light comes on with the brakes then something is no working in the brake light system. Did you check the 3rd brake light as well?? turn running lights on and try it with the headlights on as well.

5. not sure about the clicking issue, maybe the blend door or something is trying to move and is stuck and you are hearing it cycling over and over.

6. in the bottom right hand corner of your post is an "EDIT" button.

 

#1 i will defiantly take a closer look at the tracks and make sure everything is clean and lubricated.

#2 I can see you're point the same people make a real leather version for 800 or that one for 400. for much more than the cost for the lesser i think i would prefer to try to find a set of good condition factory seats if possible

#3 i will try to take some pictures, there is no vacuum leaks on the motor.

#4 all lights work including the third break light. any time tail lights or break lights are on the bulb failure light is on. it does not come on with the 4 ways or turn signals

#6 thank you i swear that wasn't there earlier....lol

 

If the bulb failure light comes on with the brakes, when the lights are NOT on, then this is most likely a problem with the parking (handbrake) microswitch. It is a bulb test mode that the bulb failure light comes on when (a) the brakes are pressed and (b) the parking brake is on. Does your handbrake warning light work?

If this is the case, then it is best to fix this before tackling the lights on part of the problem.
Greg

 

yes the parking break light is on. i think the switch on the handle needs adjustment. i wouldn't have ever guessed that the parking break light would be tied into the bulb falure light. ill get the parking break light off and let you know

 

fixed the parking break light still have a bulb failure light when pressing the breaks or turning the lights on. i also checked all the bulbs and connectors in the back for corrosion and they are perfectly clean. i unpluged the BL terminal on both the rear bulb failure modules still the same issue haven't found the other modules yet

on the cruise control module here is the pic

 

I know you said all the lights are working but you didn't mention the the license plate lights.
For your bulb failure indicator, be sure to check both of the license plate lights up under the lip on the trunk (boot) lid.
I had the same issue with the bulb failure indicator and it turned out one of these lights was out. I actually had to replace both of the assemblies, they are available from multiple sources online.
Just a thought...

 

ill check the license plate lights.

i was hoping to disable the the bulb fail modules one at a time until i no longer had the light to start getting it narrowed down but the only two i was actually able to find so far is the two in the trunk. another thing i noticed is the bulb failure light is brighter when the markers or headlights are on than when the breaks are pressed.

its my last dash light to get sorted out and dash lights annoy me its tempting to just remove the bulb and call it good...lol i know how to check my lights are working without a idiot light.

 

I have this same exact problem with my 94 XJS. Did you ever resolve the issue?
Thanks...Jimmy

 

LED bulbs will turn on the bulb failure indicator. This is because LED's draw far less current and the bulb failure module thinks the bulb is blown.