XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Original v Glassfibre wings/fender.

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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 10:06 AM
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Default Original v Glassfibre wings/fender.

Hi, I have a pre facelift V12 coupe that is in overall good condition but needs some cosmetic work. I am starting to investigate bodywork and respray options knowing that I will probably want to replace both front wings. They existing ones could be saved and treated but eventually the rust will return as once it starts its very difficult to stop.

After researching options I came across the option of glass fibre wings from a reputable UK Jaguar parts supplier at under half the cost of original steel. I am not after originality for a concourse car but rather want to preserve and protect for the future. I have other vehicles that have composite panels so know that in itself is not an issue. My main concern would be panel fit.

Does anyone have any experience of these on an XJS? I understand many will respond and say just go original steel (and I may well do so) but I want to find out if anyone has experience of these on an XJS.

Thanks David
David
 
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 10:16 AM
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Which supplier?
Actually the wings, which bolt on, are not prone to rust if well protected. The chassis top rail/valence area under the wing, is far more likely to go. I would remove the wings and take a very good poke around there before buying anything. Good second hand steel wings are still plentiful. With GF, the big unknown is how rigid they are; and how accurate they are, I would very carefully look at one before buying.
Fibreglass bottom corner panels, by contrast, seem to me as very good idea.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 10:32 AM
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My existing ones are going around the arches and front valance join so would probably rather replace. Understand your comment about rigidity and it does need some thought. Weirdly most of the rear and front lower panels seem to be pretty good.

The supplier is Jagspares International who also happen to offer a number of other composite panel replacements instead of steel. Maybe a conversation with them is required...........
 
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 10:40 AM
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Steel, if at all at a reasonable cost. fix he old ones or get good used ones.


I've seen FG parts in other critters. Some quite decent, others awful.
But, even the decent not up to the real steel.


My roadster project used a glass body. Barely OK, An original steel would have been tons better. but decent ones way above my "budget".


My son replaced some rough steel ones on his 40 Ford coupe. Again, barely OK. The restoration includes "back to steel".


Carl
 
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 01:12 PM
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I have rear quarters made from fiberglass and they are perfect, probably from the same 'reputable seller' in UK. I also thought about buying fiberglass front wings but there is an issue with these. The bottom extension bit that goes under the headlight is missing and new metal ones are impossible to find. I wasnt sure how I'd connect them there anyway? I did eventually found one new extension so still might go for it at some point if I can figure out how to connect both together. Normally both parts are welded together.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 01:18 PM
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Thats really helpful to hear your first hand experience on the wings. Will speak with the supplier and find out if they have addressed that issue and take it from there. Thanks
 
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 01:52 PM
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Paul Pennell of www. Artistry in aluminium offers top notch repair panels. He also advertis3 on e bay. Good secondhand wings don’t seem to be that abundant especially drivers side. Very expensive new.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2018 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by katar83
I have rear quarters made from fiberglass and they are perfect,
...
Do you recall the weight difference in the fiberglass and steel panels they replaced?
 
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Old Feb 27, 2018 | 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by JigJag


Do you recall the weight difference in the fiberglass and steel panels they replaced?
Not really, I've fitted mine almost 5 years ago, I'd say they weight a third of the metal one maybe(or less) although half of my metal ones rotted away by the time I replaced them

You can see them fitted here:

https://www.xj40.com/viewtopic.php?f...rt=450#p101429
 
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Old Mar 2, 2018 | 02:51 PM
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The other thing not mentioned here is the front end droop when the front guards are removed. When I was painting my car I measured the droop in the front end with the guards removed and it was about 1/2".

The whole front end was flexing. If you add front FG guards I would add bracing between the top rail and bottom of the A pillar.

Something like this
https://www.gtspec.com/product/gtspe...xs14-19941997/
 
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Old Mar 3, 2018 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by warrjon
The other thing not mentioned here is the front end droop when the front guards are removed. When I was painting my car I measured the droop in the front end with the guards removed and it was about 1/2".

The whole front end was flexing. If you add front FG guards I would add bracing between the top rail and bottom of the A pillar
Well I don’t like the idea of that at all.

And the unibody in this car was sound? Do I understand correctly that the droop was measured at the nose with the vehicle on all four wheels? I don’t even understand how there could be a significant load forward
of the front wheels.

 
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Old Mar 3, 2018 | 03:45 PM
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The droop was measured with the car on 4 jack stands under the jacking points, from the bottom radiator support to the ground. My car was almost totally rust free, there was a little bit in the RH top front rail (under the guard) but this had already been cut out and new metal welded in.

There was 6mm droop with the guards (fenders) removed. So the guards are providing stiffness to the front of the car.

In a race car where the body is tied together with a roll cage FG guards will have less effect on stiffness
 
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Old Mar 4, 2018 | 06:52 AM
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Ah! Makes much more sense to me now! Under normal operation you’d never have a load like that on the unibody.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 02:09 AM
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Yes but with the guards bolted on the droop was less than 4mm
 
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